Chiraagshah

Sorry. I should have been more clear. It was the Crown Wheels on the front and rear Diffs that had different sets of teeth. Our driver cum mechanic is convinced that it is these different ratios that caused us to break the crowns but I am not convinced and wonder whether there is some other issue here.

Thanks Everyone - So a bit of an update and questions too for all you experts. We've opened up the Diffs that we buggered last year to try and work out what went wrong and this is the diagnosis from our driver/navigator/engineer/mechanic ... 1. We seem to have been running on different ratios for the front and rear diffs. 2. Our rear diff has 45 teeth whereas our original front diff has 39 teeth. 3. We broke the Crown and Pinion on our original front diff in 2017 and replaced it with a loaner diff from a friend. That also sent pop within 2 hours of competing last year. Turns out that the replacement front diff has only 25 teeth. I always thought that the Mog 404 axles had only one diff ratio - And internet research suggests that is 39:11? SO we've either had two unmatched axles from the start (2008 which would explain a whole host of other problems we've experienced) or Mog 404's do come with different ratios? Any thoughts/ideas?

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Ed, would you mind asking him if he would have a couple lying around? Also - where is his yard?

Thanks Steve B. Would you be willing to break out the Diffs? We’ve already got working axles and shipping that weight down to Kenya a second time round will break the bank. Cheers C

Hello Peeps - Back again after a while but am in a bind. We have a modified spaceframe Defender on Unimog 404 axles that we compete with in the Rhino Charge in Kenya. Managed to bust both diffs last year and had sourced a couple from Doug on this forum - long story short - we shipped them out last July and they haven't got to destination! We are pursuing the shipper but it is going to be a case of compensation and in the meantime we desperately need to source 2 Diffs within the next few weeks so that we can get them shipped out and get working on the rebuild! Anyone happen to have spares lying around around or have any ideas where I could source from? Many thanks! C

Thanks guys - super helpful. I will post up pics of the build as we go along - Most likely going to go for the GP Arms

Thanks Guys, Only concern we had with the Gigglepin ones is that because we need to go for the new mounts, if we were to break one along the way, then the only replacement would be another GP arm and that costs an arm and a leg (no pun intended). Also, because the arm is longer, do they not move the pivot point forward which apparently results in the diff nose tilting away from the gearbox on droop potentially putting more strain on the prop? The Adrenaline 4x4s as I understand it bolt straight onto the existing chassis mounts and are std length which is a plus. We do currently have a pair of X-Eng Arms but I am told that the Johnny Joint is better? Ta again!

Hi All, Haven't been here for a while but good to see the banter is just as good as ever! And all the helpful hints too! So my question - We used to run a 1972 RR Classic on Mog Axles for the Kenyan Rhino Charge but are now "upgrading" (?) to a 110 Chassis - the intention being to build a space frame/buggy type charger that has the space to carry 5 pax and yet is able to still tackle the terrain. On the Classic we had X-Arms and X Joints which did very well apart from once when we managed to bugger one of the X-Joints on an extreme articulation maneuver (https://www.facebook.com/pages/DeRan...33224110074012) So out looking for recommendations - Are the X-Arms still the bees knees or is there something else out there that will allow the flex/articulation needed (we are looking at a King Coilover Suspension setup too). Any experience of Johnny Jointed Arms like the ones from Adrenalin 4x4? Many thanks! C

Many thanks !

Hey There, Have recently acquired a P38 dHSE - Its the '01 model but it pretty god nick for the age. Unfortunately, it didn't come with the Owners Manual although it has the manuals for the stereo, sat nav etc - Anyone happen to have a pdf version of the Manual they willing to share? Alternatively, where could I track one down? Many thanks, C

Thanks Nige ... not sure the second option would work - we seem to manage to break a lot of stuff out there and the more complex smething is the more likely to go wrong ... Will hunt for the drop pto but like you said ... its expensive. Only one found so far is in Aussie and he wants a kings ransom for it! May just end up going for a hydraulic winch instead ...

Thanks Fridge - How would the Crank Drive work? If it links directly to the engine with no gears or clutch, hw would one control it if the engine was running?

Hey guys, We have a 1972 Range Rover Classic on portals that we use to compete in the rhino charge in Kenya. Been finding that electrical winches are a pain ... is there anyway to get a power take off for the Range's 4 Speed gearbox (I think its the LT95 box) so that we can run a PTO winch? All thoughts, suggestions most welcome as always! Many thanks,

My Bad Bowie ... Many thanks for this ...

Hey there, am looking for a pair of Waffle Boards - the 50mm X 5 Foot ones ... any recommendations for the best place to get them from at a good price? I understand that they are just fibreglass floor gratings cut to size but even the manufacturers seem to have got onto the act and their prices are pretty dear! Any tips much appreciated Cheers C

Cheers guys. Will leave that one well alone then although the kit it came with made the price (500) a wee bit tempting ... Looking at another one this weekend but its on a 4 inch lift and I've seen a couple of posts here that indicate that that is likely to be problematic too ...

But could you just ignore the problem and leave it as it is ... on the basis that it is not going to cause any further damage?

Ouch ... but what about ... further down the page: I have a 4sp ZF, when I select "D" the vehicle won't move, when I select "1" the vehicle moves off. I can then select "D" and continue to drive normally. If I stop I have to start in first again. Why? A sprag clutch has "inverted" and will need replacing. No further damage will occur if you continue to drive but you will need to select "1" every time to start moving. A rebuild is required to correct this.

Hey there ... Been looking at a 3.9V8 RRC and the car won't start off in "drive" but needs to be in "1" to get moving. Is this a common problem? Easily fixed? What causes it? Thanks Chiraag

Hey, just saw this - am in North London - Islington.

Some more of the DeRanged Rover

Thanks Guys ... Appreciate the tips. I'll let you know how I get on ... Cheers, C

Hey guys, I am looking at putting in an offer in on a 1994 RR Classic. Its the 5 door with a 5 speed manual and the 2.5 Turbo Diesel Engine with less than 100k on the clock. Cosmetically in very good shape (minor paint bubbling on the edge of the front bonnet) and what looks like surface rust on the rear bumper but nothing else that I have spotted. No leaks from sunroof and headlining is intact. Would be grateful for some tips on what else to look for - I do not want to face any hefty repair bills in the near future - Any particular problem areas I need to look out for, particularly wrt to engine and rust issues? Many thanks, C

Thanks guys for the comments ... I am looking at a 2007 model with 40K miles on the clock and a 1 Yr Warranty thrown in so think I would be able to iron out any relaibility issues that come up in that time frame ... Its a 2.8 Turbo Diesel but assume it will still come with the LT85 gearbox which I believe is pretty solid ... Does anyone have any idea how it rates comfort wise to the 110? I've seen some comment son other threads saying it doesn't compare to a landie but any first hand experience? Cheers!