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oneandtwo

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Everything posted by oneandtwo

  1. I have previously used sika 291, as the clips are completely hidden you can smear it all over the clips and glass!
  2. I fitted the very late Genuine Land Rover Puma 90/110 rear one piece halfshafts to my early Puma last year, they are also a straight retrofit to the 300tdi/ td5 rear axle and are significantly thicker than the old 300tdi one piece rear halfshafts, I presume they are a fair bit stronger too as they are the only one piece half shaft that has been rated for 110 rear use by Land Rover. The pair of genuine half shafts are £700 from Land Rover however Britpart now do a copy of the genuine shafts which are highly rated by some - I intend to fit a set of these copies in my 300tdi 90 shortly as a budget upgrade to replace the 30 year old one piece shafts.
  3. 200tdi dressed up to look like a 300tdi - dipstick, turbo and acoustic cover, ten years ago to the week I did this!, where did that go?
  4. Just to confuse people in the future, I fitted 300tdi dipsticks to a couple of 200tdi’s many years ago. (I actually did it to stop the usual 200tdi dipstick tube falling into the sump issue - removed the 200tdi dipstick tube, bored out the retaining union to the correct depth to accept the 300tdi dipstick / o ring. The engine casting has a bolt in the same position as the 300tdi dipstick is bolted to.)
  5. I had a very low mileage series overdrive, with known history, and a second horribly neglected one with very worn gear teeth / failed bearings etc. I rebuilt the neglected one out of curiosity with all new bearings but retaining the worn gears as wasn’t worth spending any money on it, I swapped it into my series and it sounded no worse than the very low mileage one when in use!
  6. I paid £30 per sector shaft to get rechromed, rebuilt two boxes myself, all new bearings and seals, and they have been absolutely perfect and leak free in at least two years of daily use. Only snag is the company in Cheshire that did the excellent rechroming and grinding on the sector shafts have now closed down to retirement, as I have another three I want rechroming.
  7. The diff caps on later diffs, certainly since the early 1990’s, are date marked, that one was made on 23 Jan (A) 2008. The diff centres are marked similarly.
  8. Classic case of 300tdi misaligned timing cover casing / fuel injector pump causing the belt to run off the pulley. You need the revised injector pump bracket with sliding bushings to prevent it happening again.
  9. Nige, Thank you for info. The KAM diff centre assembly is one machined piece, it doesn’t split like the later ones so cannot be upgraded to a one piece crosspin - can only use the original cross pin - one long pin goes all the way through the diff, through a separate centre section, and retained by circlips each side. There are then two stubs that screw into centre section which make up the second pin. Quite similar in principle to the Ashcroft 4 pin system. I ended up building it up with all new bolts and fitting it to a standard diff. Instead of running it in my wife’s front axle I was intending to give it to my brother to use in the rear of his road going 300tdi 90 to replace the standard 2 pin, reasoning that even if the LSD packs are not up to spec, as a four pin diff it is still going to be miles better than the 2 pin it is replacing. As for my wife’s 90 I will purchase an Ashcroft ATB for the rear and convert the Truetrac to front operation.
  10. As stated above, the rear post is different.
  11. The series rear quarter panels have one major difference - a series tub has lower wheel boxes by about an inch compared to a defender so the rear post that is attached to the rear quarter panel is different between an series and a defender panel.
  12. And people used to moan about early 300tdi’s shredding their cam belts and having to buy a new set of pushrods! Little did we know what was ahead!!
  13. Yep, brass plug and paper filter now fitted. LOF once made a machined billet clutch fork with nylon pivot inserts for the 300tdi but only made one batch, for some reason they never re-manufactured it
  14. My brother’s 300tdi 90 clutch failed recently. Felt like it was the usual punched through clutch fork however I was sure I fitted one of the modified HD forks when I changed the clutch for him 50k miles ago. Turned out I had fitted a HD clutch fork, however instead of punching through the fork as with the non HD version, it wore the fork and pivot ball out, and then split the fork! While I was at it gave it a full service, alloy radiator filler plug had not liked being in brass radiator! And finally the 300tdi appears to have swallowed half of its ITG air filter that has deteriorated with age. Still runs fine!
  15. You may be confusing the Detroit Locker? The plated type LSD starts off open too (although there is some inherent drag from the clutch pack), and locks from centrifugal force from the planet gears - the faster the individual planet gear spins (ie one wheel lost traction and is spinning) causes that planet gear to be forced outwards, compressing the clutch pack causing it to lock up and send drive to the spinning wheel. As I’ve never driven the plated LSD I am assuming it would be unnoticeable when fitted to the front in it’s normally open state as the planet gears would only turn very slowly when cornering, presumably not enough to compress the plates, but would rather some first hand experience before is strip the front axle down to fit it and then find I have to take it out again when other half goes straight on into a tree!
  16. That was an old 2006 TD5 CSW I had about five years ago. I had kept the photos as reference of how to do the job and pull a crumpled wing straight incase anyone needed to see it. 110’s have mudflaps mounted forward of the rear crossmember and fastened to the wing return, which usually rots out. The rear overhang of a 110 is at a guess a foot more than the 90, hence mounting the mudflaps that way instead of on the crossmember like the 90.
  17. LR Genuine Parts rebuilt 300tdi’s were painted all over in silver once built up (block / sump / head / rocker cover). I had one of these in 2005 and still got it although looks terrible as majority of the paint has peeled off
  18. A better and neater way to do this job is to bond the panels with sikaflex or Soudal Carbond as you have done, then use countersunk pop rivets down the vertical corner joint where the spot welds have been drilled out. These are then hidden completely by the corner capping. For the tub rail / wheel box joint, if bonded properly then no outwardly visible rivets are required and makes for a much neater job without the usual telltale line of rivets. I have replaced many tub panels using this method, and twice I have had to replace them some years later a second time due to accident damage and they are a pig to remove once bonded. Photos below are of a rear quarter replacement with this method due to accident damage, pulled the side wing straight using the new quarter panel as a reference, no paint work required on the side, only the rear quarter.
  19. Question mainly aimed at Hybrid_from_Hell! I’m currently running a Truetrac in rear of an old 300tdi 90, with Ashcroft 4 pin up front. Vehicle is mainly used on road by my wife however is on occasion used on beach to launch and retrieve boats in soft sand, and has been stuck twice this year in sand. I have spare a KAM 4pin diff with LSD clutch packs that I am considering fitting to the front to replace the Ashcroft 4 pin in an attempt to gain an extra bit of traction on the sand. Does anyone have experience of running the KAM LSD 4 pin in the front axle? My hope is that it would be un-noticeable during day to day on road use? This particular KAM 4 pin unit is a very early model with three piece crosspin (similar to Ashcroft 4 pin centre) and has no spring plates to preload the clutch pack, and no method of any adjustment to the clamping force, it relies purely on the sun gears to load the clutch pack. On the later KAM LSD units, for front axle use, it is recommended that two clutch plates either side are placed side by side to reduce the total clamping area - I am presuming this would still be the case for the earlier units when used in the front? Finally what is the correct torque figure for the twelve M8 12.9 carrier bolts?
  20. Bearings are 1x Koyo 2012 for the top cap and 1x Koyo 2016 and 1x Koyo 2020 for the lower section. I will try and strip one down either tonight or tomorrow. You will need to remove the sector shaft to assess the condition. If the bearings have damaged the bearing surface then it’s probably scrap as the rechroming and grinding is only normally performed on the seal surface.
  21. If it’s an auto it will be blatantly obvious with torque converter and auto box. Otherwise there is no difference between disco 300tdi if fitted with manual box, and defender 300tdi. My 300tdi 90 was fitted with replacement engine under warranty by landrover in late 90’s and was fitted with a remanufactured disco engine.
  22. If the worm is not damaged you can refurb the rest yourself at home. In my experience if the worm is pitted either on its bearing surfaces or the worm itself then it puts it out of the realms of DIY as a replacement worm requires complicated reshimming to centralise it correctly. if you just need to replace all three needle bearings and seals then it is half hour job, but you will almost certainly find the sector shaft needs rechroming on its sealing surfaces when removed. I am not convinced that some reconditioning company’s look at the worm unit when working on a box as it makes them uneconomical to repair as it requires a new worm at £100 and then time consuming re-shimming to correctly set the box up. Out of the ten or so boxes I have stripped in the last few years, at least half had pitted worm units. If there is interest I have another box here I was going to strip and rebuild I can do a step by step guide.
  23. It is ERR6835. The part number didn’t change when revised, however the revised version has two sliding bushes which the bolts attaching the pump pass through, requiring longer bolts to be fitted
  24. I reckon that you don’t have the revised injector pump mounting bracket fitted to the engine. This locates the injector pump in the correct location and prevents the timing case twisting slightly which causes the belt to run very slightly off centre. (they always look off centre when the cover is removed as the pulleys are reversed) I have had well over twenty 300tdis over the years and only a couple had the revised bracket fitted.
  25. The door wiring exits the bulkhead through a rectangular hole approx 2” below the door light switch. YQQ000070 cable gaiter houses the wiring loom and fits to the door and into the rectangular hole
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