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oneandtwo

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Everything posted by oneandtwo

  1. If I could remember / find the paperwork id’ve put it in the reply! It was a small one man type old fashioned workshop somewhere near Liverpool.. which doesn’t exactly narrow it down!!!
  2. Also I stripped down seven or eight four bolt boxes and found that over 50% of them had damaged bearing surfaces on the worm shaft which effectively writes the box off.
  3. A couple of years ago when I was after getting a couple of boxes reconditioned, the girl on the phone let slip who did the machining on their shafts, so I cut out the middle man and went direct to grinding company and had three or four shafts ground and rechromed a couple of years ago, £60-70 each, all have been perfect in use daily use since.
  4. I had an Automotec two post in a previous workshop. I was on the verge of buying a newer version from them for my new unit which has all the cables etc to the second post overhead - I was waiting for it to come back in stock a few months ago, then I thought back to how much I actually used my previous two post lift, and decided not to bother. It was always a nuisance to set up, and I used to find it much easier to just roll under a Defender anyway. I think the only job I did with it which I couldn’t do without it was swapping a 90 chassis by lifting the body up on the ramp.
  5. Many years ago I did my old 300tdi 90 in two days with a two post lift, it was in very good condition which made it a quick swap. My Puma 90 has been two years and counting as I have lost interest in it!!
  6. The generic pattern replacement s3 gearstick is about £15 and comes with the latest type isolator, I have had one for four years in use and it is excellent, zero rattles in use.
  7. There are two different Makita 240v 4.5” grinders - one is the slimmer home / light use version (ga4530), the other is the more expensive professional version, used to be the 9554 but now 9557. The professional version is excellent and if you do burn one out, they can be rebuilt with new genuine armatures for under £20.
  8. I stripped down a Fairey a few years ago which had a worn layshaft (gear teeth faces starting to erode on Layshaft which they always seem to go first). Out of curiosity I rebuilt it with all new bearings throughout, and tested it against a NOS one which was in immaculate condition internally. Both made an equal amount of noise in use In early 2000’s I found a good condition Fairey at our local tip still attached to a gearbox, they were more than happy to let me take it away.
  9. I fitted a LOF clutch master when they came out and it was awful. It was lighter but it also moved the biting point towards the floor from memory. I messed around with it for ages trying to get it something like usuable, spoke to LOF who basically admitted what I found. I removed and binned it after a few days. The LOF power spring is excellent however.
  10. First photo shows the original, the second is the revised version which has the tracks re-routed and can be distinguished by the heater element skirting around the light position.
  11. On my Puma whoever designed the circuit on the glass routed it under the rear brake light plastic cover so the cover itself actually cut through the circuit and stopped the light and top element section working. The circuit was redesigned midway through the Puma production to prevent this, I have a replacement glass from SP which from memory was a copy of the later circuit revision (still wrapped up awaiting me doing anything with it!)
  12. The intermediate shaft hole in the casing is sleeved with stainless insert as the hole wears causing oil leak. Every transfer box I stripped (at least ten) has had a worn hole, either grooved or ovalised. The Syncro intermediate shaft is a direct replacement for the standard intermediate shaft, but made from hardened steel - again all the boxes I stripped down have had wear to the intermediate shaft. Syncro were the only people at the time who produced an uprated shaft. the Ashcroft 4 pin diff centre is an uprated stronger one piece centre to replace the weaker standard two pins. On my Puma LT230 I recently rebuilt I did exactly the same except I also fitted stronger TAS manufactured machined centre gears but that is probably overkill! I also replaced all the bolts with 12.9 cap heads on both boxes. There is a photo on this page -
  13. I scrapped a 1996 discovery ES shortly after. I pulled the transfer box off and found it had been fitted with a LT230Q out of a late Disco2 with the later centre diff housing and reinforced casing. Stripped it apart to inspect it and it was like brand new, diff was unmarked, so I rebuilt that box instead, had the casing sleeved, fitted a Syncro gearboxes hardened intermediate shaft. Centre diff I rebuilt with Ashcroft 4 pin centre and set up correctly (notchy). It is completely leak free still and very tight in use.
  14. I have had Puma doors since 2007 and they are still perfect, and I live by the sea. They will however still rot away if they are not looked after - I sprayed the inners of mine with waxoyl when I got them and periodically spray it up the lower drain channels (which are much bigger than the old type doors) There used to be an 05 Td5 locally that I had the misfortune to have to repair on occasions. That had the “Puma type” doors and the skins rusted through completely at the bottom - it was completely neglected and regularly dunked in the sea.
  15. Front axle!!! You may be glad of it one day. They bend easier than you think.
  16. I have probably broken twenty 200 / 300 discos over the years. Never once did I take the body off. Realisitically, don’t think I ever sold any body panels or interior parts, no-one wanted them -I broke four ES models which had the full leather and electric seats with separate headrests and they went for scrap too. although admittedly this may have changed as it’s a few years since I last did one. Front and Rear axles used to sell, as did alloy wheels and wheelnuts if they were Freestyle, Deepdish or Boost types; if not I would just weigh in the rims. The newer style radius arms / trailing arms were saleable. Steering boxes I kept (the 4 bolt type can be rebuilt cheaply and the shaft ground and chromed). gearboxes / torque converters / shifters and transfer boxes I generally sold on to Ashcroft transmissions for rebuilding as I couldn’t be doing with the hassle. The front axle if rebuilt and used in conjunction with the newer radius arms would be a good upgrade on your 110 axle with 24 spline diff and newer type swivel parts with better / cheaper availability in the future.
  17. That’s a 300tdi EDC injector with the wiring plug cut off. Wonder what the rest of the engine is like?!
  18. My father did for his Puma, but to be honest the washer jet is no better than the £5 plastic standard one. However the stainless steel wiper gearboxes he also bought from them are superb.
  19. My thoughts were that as it makes the steering self centre more (probably not a bad thing on a Series) presumably you would require more force for initiate the turn; it seems almost every Land Rover with a front Truetrac is a Defender / Disco with power steering so the initial extra turning force would not be noticed. I guess I’ll have to fit it one day and find out!
  20. I already have a Quaife unit in the rear axle 😃
  21. Has anyone tried a Truetrac in the front axle of a series? I have a front specific one intended for my Series but have shied away from fitting it in case it makes the steering heavy. There is very little info on Series Truetrac fitment
  22. The Td5 bonnet isn’t strong enough for a spare wheel. In my opinion Defenders do handle better with 235/85 rather than 265’s
  23. Sorry, I sold it to someone on here shortly after posting
  24. I had a 110 300tdi which had a knackered Salisbury diff, I used an old 1980’s axle casing with the 300tdi stub axles, disc brackets, half shafts, drive members and hubs. All bolted straight onto the old axle casing. I ended up buying new shafts / drive members and stub axles as all were worn out when removed from the 300tdi. You can use 300tdi disco hubs which you can’t give away (same as defender) From memory the only difference between the 80’s and the 300tdi axle casing was I had to drill one 6mm hole in the damper mount to allow the disc shield to bolt to it.
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