oneandtwo

I bought a couple of sets of genuine doors from dealer at a good discount, I think they cost me under £300 each brand new crated which was less than second hand ones were going for on eBay. The old style welded construction doors will never be as good as the new type, they are so much better. All three of my defenders now have them fitted.

I had a QT momo one, it was okay but I preferred the original one so bought a brand new OEM one, much nicer to use, so I replaced the other two wheels in my other defenders with the same.

The one you've got is the newer type, I don think the older one is available anymore but it is only a few screw holes which need redrilling. I have always thought of it as a bonus as more often than not with old tdi defenders the screws snap when undoing them anyway.

No they are exactly the same

Exactly the same.

Impressive welding skills!

Well you've successfully replicated the hardtop to body fit!

I was waiting for various deliveries today. One unmarked white van turned up while I was outside my house and gave me a small box and drove off before I'd had a chance to look at the consignment note. The parcel from the particular company should've been a lot longer than the small box I received. Phoned the company and they confirmed it was sent in two separate packages at the same time, one of which is probably still sat in the back of the couriers van. What really annoys me though is I checked the tracking number on their website which states that I signed for it which I didn't. I assumed the driver had got back into the cab to get the paperwork or electronic tablet for me to sign but instead he drove off. If he had given me the chance to sign for it I would've realised the delivery was incomplete and not signed for it.

And to be honest, I'd be wary of taking it to a "garage" to get done anyway - most, including those featured in Landrover magazines, seem to be pretty poor at welding anyway. I am trained and time served in mig and TIG what I see some garages churning out is abysmal. If it is a 90 tdi and you are fitting one with extentions it's easy enough to do most of it yourself and prep it and get a proper welder to weld it in which case it will be an hour tops.

Tdi or td5?its a lot easier and cheaper to do a tdi than a td5 Last one I did with extentions took a couple of hours, I think I charged £80 to fit it. I much prefer replacing the crossmember like for like if the chassis rails are still good but this is more time consuming. Personally I think if that if it needs extentions it's better to think of replacing the chassis .

I test drove a D reg v8 ten or so years ago, belong to a friend of a friend. I totally agree - I was quite excited about driving it but it was completely gutless and my then 300tdi was a much better drive. It was in nice condition and even had the old factory fitted aircon with the vent flaps replaced with the black plastic blanking plates, they only wanted £1500, a bargain these days but not back then. Still, I bought their 80" off them for £1000 instead.

Good luck with that one then, as the factory are still this day knocking out the same lt77 seatbox with the r380 adaptor spotwelded onto it hidden under the soundproofing mat

You can just modify your existing seatbox with the R380 plate - drill out the spotwelds from a tatty box and transfer the plate to your current box and trim the seatbox away where needed. Landrover used to do this themselves with the 300tdi Repower kit and supply the plate as a spare part. I've just condemned yet another rotten 300tdi 90 yesterday if you need a seatbox plate r380 plate.

My parents recently replaced their elderly 300tdi 90csw. They looked at Pumas but didn't like the cramped dash, lack of seating, tales of woe from some people of problems with early Pumas and instead went for as new as they could get td5 - a 56 plate td5 90csw, costing more than an early equivelent puma, on the assumption that after 8 years Land Rover had pretty much sorted the td5 and the R380, plus it has the "puma" doors and can carry seven people,

I had a speedglas 9002 which I thought was unbeatable, then the batteries died halfway through a job one evening so I borrowed a new 9100 from a friend , made my 9002 seem like a cheap Chinese helmet.

Picked up a rotten 51 plate td5 disco recently. 10p engine and manual box, Runs really well, 140k on the clock. bodywork lovely, chassis not so good - completely rotten with holes all the way down the rails - crumbles when hit, far too rotten to repair. Base model with coil springs. It won't go back on the road again with this chassis. What is on it of value? Can the engine be put in a defender? Try and sell it complete or break it up and sell the engine and box?

I used to have a modified standard intercooler with up rated core, I think it was Brunel, it would only just fit in the radiator frame and required the lips of the frame trimming down. Being a Tig welder myself I decided I would recore a few standard intercoolers myself but to get cores made up to size was very expensive for what was basically an experiment - I think I was quoted £150 per core. I ended up with two full width allisports and a standard sized one although I did notice the Chinese have started to copy the allisport designs!

It is possible if the wrong bolts have been used at some point that instead of rubbing on the gear they actually deform the internal bearing crush tube. The bolt holds the gear in position but when removed and replaced with correct - This allows the main gear to float around and cause a grinding noise. There is no evidence to be seen on the end of the bolt when withdrawn. I know this as I did it myself once. Remove the rear pto plate and input gear and you can get your hand in and feel for play in the main gear.

You obviously don't live near the sea as the crankshaft pulley puller is invaluable for removing the front pulley when the vehicle in question has been driving in the sea!

Just looked online and the bearmach ones look considerably better than the one I fitted above. Infact I might buy one myself and replace it so she can lock the door again!

I put a cheap new one on my partners 90 as the original was a bit sloppy. She now cannot lock the door because the new one more often than not gets stuck in the locked position and takes a lot of wiggling and pulling to get the lock button up again. I should've known better, it looked cheap with plastic rod retaining clips rather than metal ones as original. My excuse is that it came with a vehicle in a box of spares and I didn't pay for it!

They need replacing with the newer steel skins. I am a TIG welder and can and have welded up defender bodywork - rear tubs / roofs, but I wouldn't even attempt to weld a door skin.

My parents wanted to replace their 300tdi 90 with a newer model, I went for as new a td5 as I could get for them, a 56 plate, as I figured they should've ironed out pretty much all the snags by then. Being so late, as well as the better steel rear door, it also has "puma" front doors as well which are well worth having.

It's all together and steers fine but I think on the straight ahead position the lower column should sit a certain way, and the steering lock operates in a certain position. Perhaps I'm just being fussy!

With the steering box dead ahead, drop arm aligned with the hole in the steering box, what should be the positioning of the lower collapsible steering shaft, and the steering column / steering lock cutout? I know the official line is to mark everything before removal but this defender in question has been severely messed about with!