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oneandtwo

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Everything posted by oneandtwo

  1. The 90 went back to separate drive shafts and flanges on rear 2003-2004. I’ve always assumed it was when the Salisbury was ditched in the 110, The 90 reverted to the same halfshafts as the 110 hd Rear Rover axle for cost saving measures. The four post 2004 90s I’ve owned the first thing I’ve done when I’ve got them home is to bung a couple of old disco 300tdi shafts in.
  2. From the original poster it seems he forgot to refit the factory fitted bolts and large spreader washers that attach the rear tie down loops to the chassis and also form the upper mountings for the genuine adjustable hitch. These m10 bolts as standard go through the chassis from the inside of the chassis to the outside, so when the tank is in place they cannot be refitted. If this is the case using the correct length bolts (either 110mm or 100mm) they can go from the outside of the chassis rails inwards with the nuts and spreader washers on the inside, you end up with 5-8mm clearance each side from the tank but they do fit fine. If you have a 300tdi rear crossmember with a td5 tank how does the tank cradle attach to the crossmember? Presumably the 300tdi crossmember is modified to allow the cradle studs to pass through the crossmember rear face and access holes for the nuts?
  3. Cable ties? Supporting tank with knees?!! Anyone who has not refitted a tank specifically in a td5 or Puma 90 does not realise just how difficult it is! As above it makes it a lot easier if you unbolt the ten crossmember to tub mounting bolts, the two mounting bolts from the tubular outriggers on each side and possibly the two seatbelt mounting bolts. Then with the front doors open there is enough flex in the roof and screen mounting to enable you to lift the back end of the tub upwards and wedge it up which gives you the necessary clearance from the second tub crossmember for the tank and cradle plate to slide in. I’d suggest it takes more than a few mm though - last one I did needed an inch at the crossmember.
  4. I’ve fitted four pairs of paddocks / britpart Steering bars now, as above they are excellent.
  5. No it takes about ten minutes to fit. Thinking about it you fit the metal plate, mark the two top holes on the wing and then the metal plate screws to the snorkel, you then fit snorkel and mark the windscreen frame bracket position.
  6. If the tank is out it’s easy just to weld new nuts to the top side of the bracket. (They are m8 not m10 btw) Richards chassis don’t bother with captive nuts, you can access the mounting position with the tank fitted anyway so they just use nuts and bolts
  7. It’s a cheap copy of the genuine Puma snorkel. The genuine instructions are probably out there somewhere,my, but it’s not exactly hard to fit. Clip the metal plate over the intake hole. Drill the two holes at the top of the plate to suit m6 rivnut. Fit m6 rivnuts. Attach screen bracket to snorkel and Temporarily mount the snorkel on the two m6 bolts. Mark screen where bracket holes are, remove snorkel and drill two holes for the self tapping bolts. My genuine Land Rover one didn’t have extra fixings round the mounting plate that that one has from memory,
  8. The earlier motor does actually run slower than the later type motor- If you use the later wheelboxes on an earlier motor and update the crankgear, the wiper speed is slower than a newer motor - my Puma 90 slow speed setting is almost as fast as my updated 300tdis fast setting.
  9. I’ve had an old SP flaremaster 2 for longer than I can remember. one important thing to remember is always use branded brake pipe such as Saville. I bought and the subsequently binned a few rolls of unbranded Kunifer pipe some years ago in a clearance sale, it would not flare , it would crumple up instead. Every roll of it was the same, I was questioning my sanity until I tried an off cut of saville tubing which flared perfectly
  10. The genuine coin tray was great with the iPhone 4 for navigation, it would stand in the tray nicely.
  11. If you’ve already fitted a new tensioner, Check the grooves of the belt very carefully, you will probably see debris at the base of the grooves - looks like shiny strips of rubber embedded in the belt. Sometimes you have to flex the belt back on itself to see it. If it has happened after changing ancillaries it is caused by slight misalignment. The belt wears very slightly on one edge of the vs and the grooves fill with debris then it doesn’t ride on the pulleys correctly. Pattern water pumps and alternators are usually the culprits, they are slightly out of tolerance a lot of the time. Airtex waterpumps and denso alternators don’t suffer this. Another cause of debris build up is worn and rusty pulleys - since I bought a tdci my 300tdi sat idle for months on end, the pulleys would develop surface rust and this would cause the belt to shed debris as well. I completely cured my squeals by fitting new dayco tensioner, denso alternator with new pulley, airtex waterpump, and also fitted brand new pulleys to the waterpump, fan idler and power steering pump.
  12. I started off with a supermig 180, converted it to eurotorch, great machine, until I treated myself to a Lorch!
  13. Those cross members are zinc plated which is why they’ve lasted so long. BTW the cappings on factory truck cab 90s were still galvanised until the end of production, unlike the hardtops!
  14. I checked my own recently and the milage was all over the place, turns out the local garage over the years has failed to read the decimal place on the td5 speedo at times, and other times has read it correctly!
  15. All the replacement s3 reverse gear idlers on the market have a little known problem in that they are machined incorrectly and will throw out of engagement in reverse when under any load. (Apparently there is only one company who makes them and they are all wrong) The solution is to purchase a gear from R Whitehouse gearboxes - they have identified the problem with the pattern gears and machine them to rectify the problem. They did one for me last year and it works perfectly. They won’t let on what the problem is with the gears btw!
  16. The 15p is actually a spare for my fathers 2006 90csw, so that has to stay! It’s the mountain of 300tdi engines and bits which is the problem!
  17. Over the years I have aquired a number of spare engines, it am now pushed for space! I have five complete 300tdis, plus even more ancillaries (and a 15p td5) At one point, I did run three 300tdi defenders, but now I’m down to one 90 and can’t see myself getting another. How many 300tdi spares would you keep? I was thinking of completely rebuilding one of them, and selling off the rest, or possibly rebuilding one and keeping another one as is for a spare.
  18. The early 300tdi defender loom had a white/orange trace bullet connector as the provision for wiring a stereo in. The revised late 95 onwards 300tdi loom had a din connector ready fitted for a stereo.
  19. My 1.2 ex 300tdi disco LT230 has the usual leak from the intermediate shaft, it’s flooding out now so I am going to replace the casing with an Ashcroft sleeved one, however I also have a later LT230Q box spare - First thought is to rebuild the Q box with the sleeved casing to take advantage of the supposedly quieter Q gears, not that my older one is noisey. I do have a very slight niggle as I have read in the past that the Q is not as durable as the earlier box - any real world experience of a Q failing? It is to go in my 300tdi 90, used 99% on road with 235 / 85 road tyres
  20. You can use a multimeter directly on the element to check for volts and continuity. I had to do it on my Puma where the rear brake light cover cut through the feed - as above this is a common problem
  21. My thoughts exactly. I can’t imagine Yamaha for example having 0.1mm variation.
  22. I have always wondered that, I’ve had maybe twenty 300tdis over the years, only one or two of them have not been 3 hole, and most of them I have known since new and have never had the head removed.
  23. What about the crankshaft seal housing gasket - it seals against the journal that you have removed to fit the T seals and is the use once metal type?
  24. All the last batch of 110s have them - that is on one of our 15 plates - the dmax is now the replacement for the defender in WPD I’ve never used it to be honest, I guess it is there to step on when removing ladders and rods from the roof if you aren’t tall - you can’t get in the back of them as they all racked out.
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