oneandtwo

The door pillar is too long where it meets the tub wheel box on all the ones I have had from memory - the last one I have done was the one pictured and that was three years ago now

I have changed lots of these, they come with part of the door pillar spot welder to it, which has incorrect dimensions. I drill out the spotwelds on the pillar side and prize the panel off from the pillar leaving just the bare panel, which can then be bonded on, and countersunk rivets used on the side wing to panel joint where it is hidden by the corner. I haven’t got a picture of separating the new panel but I have a few of the repair process - this tub was reversed into a wall and crumped the rear corner and crossmember - fitted new crossmember, new rear panel and managed to pull the side wing straight - only the rear panel had new paint. capping.

Late model defenders are 63mm inwards from edge of seatbox.

The seats moved inwards approx 1” in 1990 and a narrow centre seat was introduced, hence your 86 seat position appearing out. do you still have the centre seat fitted?

I made the same as Steve b - scaffold tube with four tangs welded to it, and an old 1/2” socket welded to the inside of it to proved a square drive, which worked very well when I did my 2a a few years ago. Stupidly I chucked it away after using it and now I need it again! I almost purchased the one on eBay a few months ago until I realised it was totally useless - I did tell the seller who agreed it needed redesigning! And I agree the HNJ one is rather overpriced for a bit of plastic. In the meantime I am doing as the Haynes manual suggests for a series gearbox - “the operator must decide how much noise or malfunction he can tolerate”!

The wheel cylinders are always imperial on series land rovers - the metricification in 80/81 covered everything else on the brake system but the cylinders remained imperial.

I have binned three 300tdi heads recently with the same cracks between the valves

Yes, I would absolutely recommend it. I have had it for almost a year now and it is still perfect working order. It won’t match a decent (CP etc) air gun but it has undone far more than I was expecting it to undo and at the price they cannot be faulted - they can be got for less than £30 on ebay now, everyone I know who has tried mine has since purchased one. it may not undo your Micra arms but for £25 they are well worth it. I might actually order another now while I am thinking about it!

All rear bulkhead have them, even chassis cabs. They are required for the spotwelder arms to access the tub floor when the tub is constructed.

I have just scrapped my 2004 Metropolis edition Td5. These were the best and most expensive Discovery 2s sold and were fitted with every available option, plus DVD system and Sat nav system in roof. This was a cosseted example and had never seen a muddy track. On the outside it still looks lovely, but dig below the surface and it is riddled with rust. The chassis has completely gone at the rear end, however, more surprisingly, since stripping it I found that all the door frames are rotten, yet completely hidden by trim. The seat frames are rotten due to sunroofs leaking and soaking the carpet. The roof is also rusting badly, and the battery tray is starting to join it. I purchased it a few months ago to do a few jobs with knowing that I would be scrapping it when the MOT ran out. It has done its job and owes me nothing, however seen what I have I would be very wary of rust issues.

I have had to replace two “stainless” straight through pipes in the past - the pipes may be (poor grade) stainless but they are welded to mild steel flanges via a mild steel mating piece which rotted away in less time than it took for the Britpart rear silencer to rot away.

There shouldn’t be a plate, the Dixon bate bolts straight up to the crossmember.

That machine is set up for testing injectors from big Mirrlees Blackstone engines, those injectors have a crack off pressure and leak back duration provided by the manufacturer which is inputted into the tester. Once the machine registers the injector cracking off it then times how long it takes for the injector to drop to a certain pressure below the crack off and issues a pass / fail. I didn’t find leak back specs for 300tdi, so yes, let the injector sit and as long as the pressure slowly drops away over 15 -20 seconds it should be a healthy injector. Some of those I tested earlier today were dropping straight away to nothing.

I have just removed and tested sixteen 300tdi injectors out of engines I removed from scrap discos some time ago. Out of these sixteen, only three were anything like reusable with good spray patterns and first stage crack off at between 194 and 197bar, and a long leakback duration. All the rest had poor spray patterns or were not cracking off correctly. I will strip a few and ultrasonically clean them and see if any can be resurrected at some point - new nozzles would sort out the majority. I would think that a correct spray pattern and first stage pressure would be a good indication that the injector was reasonably good without having them tested on a two stage tester They do have a two shim washers however they don’t appear to be adjustable with different shims - all the ones I stripped have identical washers.

In response to your other post, from memory there is no shim stack for adjustment however all the ones I tested had initial crack off pressures almost on spec.

Mine isn’t really a standard pop tester - http://www.hartridge.com/products/testmaster-3-hh701/ I was actually thinking of testing another box load of 300tdi injectors shortly, I did eight or so last year, a couple failed with really poor spray pattern, I stripped the injectors down and ultrasonically cleaned the parts and reassembled them, they then passed with good spray pattern and leak back figures, but without spending £1000 on the two stage add on I can only test them to the first opening.

No but Naks is asking a legitimate question that I have answered.

R380s all have a magnetic drain plug anyway. When I have had rebuilt R380s from Ashcroft they send them out with a square taper plug in the filler instead of the torx.

I have just serviced my 1987 Cebora spot welder, that thing is built to last forever, the contactor is designed to be serviced with quick release contacts that allow them to be cleaned off if burnt and refitted in seconds. Trouble is that it does trip modern RCDs instantly, they are too sensitive for welders.

24-065290 are for 1998 onwards rear axle with mounting cups on the axle bracket, 24-002530 are for pre 1998. B6 along with a 25mm rear anti roll bar transformed my 90 on road.

I’ve had 10 or so Richards, my fathers 61 plate 90 is on a Marsland (not out of choice). I might give XD a go depending on delivery options next, my brother has just presented my original 300tdi 90 back to me with an MOT fail.

connector with blue locking device half removed. locking device removed,

Problem solved. Just dismantled the broken one and realised that the connector has a void in it that the blue part has to push down into. My Puma must be the muddiest Puma ever (the headlining was full of mud?!) and all the voids in the connectors were full of solid silt, so there was no way they would undo as the blue part was just compressing instead of clearing the locking barb and allowing the connector to be parted. A good half hour flushing them out through the two tiny holes on the underside and then blowing all the mud clear with compressed air and they now undo with a press of the finger. I will post some photos up of the disassembled connectors - this may help someone out in the future.

Anyone any ideas on the removal of Puma fuel feed connectors? The Puma uses the older common td5 type quick connectors for the return line which isn’t a problem, however for the feed line it is a different connector with a single thin and wide push button. I have previously undone these with a screwdriver but today I broke one, luckily not an issue as I have spare set of fuel lines but I don’t want to break another. I forgot to take any photos of it this afternoon, I’ve googled for an hour and can find no reference to a tool for them, in fact I struggled to find a picture of them, even though they are almost certainly a Ford item. The photo attached is similar but not identical - the Puma uses a blue clip and is more fragile! Any tool needs to be a semicircle as it needs to put equal pressure on thin release button - I used a flat screwdriver which shattered to release mechanism.

I had an early C reg 90 twenty or so years ago that I converted to 200tdi with a proper defender engine. That had the manual Gemmer steering box and it was lovely and light and with a nice direct steering. You can tell how long ago I had it as when the head gasket went I sold the whole vehicle for £300!