oneandtwo

I ran my 300tdi 90 hardtop with 1.2 transfer box with late Q gears, continental cross contacts, TD5 soundproofing mats and an amount of silentcoat, it was fine on the motorways. Quieter than the completely standard 56plate 90CSW I had at the same time. obviously the Puma I replaced the td5 with was far better than both 300tdi Top quality parts availability is fine.

Buy the correct genuine Land Rover felt runners. They will be pre drilled for the countersunk screws in the correct locations. Generic stuff isn’t and is more aimed at the series 3 door top market. There is a long thin aluminium strip which is fitted on rear of rear vertical runner from memory, never really worked out what this shims function is, but I have always refitted it. The main shims are 2-3 small pieces of alloy which adjust the runner inwards to take up the slack in the window. These small shims are easily made as they are ridiculously expensive last time I looked. if you are fitting out late one piece “Puma” type doors the upper horizontal piece is not drilled and screwed as you will drill out the top of the door. These top runners are generally bonded with black sikaflex. Also the factory often didn’t screw the runners with all the predrilled holes, only top middle and bottom holes on the vertical runners. The newer type lower glass seal is different and often doesn’t fit as well as the older one. no idea why it changed. Use the black sikaflex to fill the gaps in the corners either side of the above seal where the outer skin curves to prevent some of the water ingress. If using Puma doors the new type foam water shedders are far better than the old polythene type and go a long way towards preventing water ingress into the vehicle. Again on Puma doors the later revised additional lower door seal is excellent and does actually seal unlike pre 2012 “seals” Buy new door handles - the fixings often are seized and spin the inserts in the old ones.

Sometimes they pull straight out, sometimes slide hammer or put the flange back on and lever it out as above. why are you removing it? Has the bearing defiantly failed or does it feel like there is play in it? They all feel slightly loose from new due to the bearing clearance.

The shaft comes out with the bearing, you then press the shaft out of the bearing. The bearing is usually tight in the casing, slide hammer on the output shaft will pull the shaft / bearing out.

Not really correct, the Puma type comes in 36 and 48 spline depending on what year it was fitted to a CSW or not. I have the later central pad type wheel in 48 spline off previous 2011 CSW, and later on the 48 spline central pad wheel became standard fitment across the range, my basic poverty spec 2015 hardtop came brand new with a central pad type wheel PS the later type Central pad wheel is much nicer to use than the TDi type

Exactly, your door gaps are way off.

Your bulkhead needs two packing washers either side. I’d be more inclined to sort that before painting tyres white.

I have a stack of old 300tdi looms, I’ll measure one tomorrow for you

Yep, just not got round to ordering one yet along with new diff bearings and bolts. I have an Ashcroft ATB in rear of my 90 and is excellent on sand so thought I’d bung one in the Lightweight too.

It’s the QDF12K. https://shop.quaife.co.uk/land-rover-range-rover-quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential

I’ve just treated my Lightweight to a ten spline Quaife ATB for the rear axle; not yet fitted it though as need crown wheel spacer

A friend of mine has an 05 td5 90 with central locking which has gone haywire - it seems to lock and unlocks itself at random. The 90 is left unlocked with the keys in the ignition 24/7 and they have no wish to lock it, however they are worried that it is going to lock themselves out with the keys still in the ignition. I was going to remove all the actuators from the doors, however Is there a way to disable the central locking through the 10AS with Nanocom? (Mine was borrowed months ago and have yet to get it back) Thanks

It is just the standard 2004 white of that era Defender. Fuji was much later

Also worth fitting the revised injector pump mounting bracket if not already fitted.

Yes!

Earlier 53mm one. In fact there’s a complete transfer box, I saved one good spare of each component. ill dig it out later

This may help someone in the future; I took a look at this last night and realised that when the heated screen was on, the dash warning light for the hazards came on as well, and when hazards were on, the heated screen warning light also came on. Looking at the wiring diagram, the hazard warning light pin and the heated screen warning light pin are next to each other on one of the multi connectors to the dash panel (Td5); the fault turned out to be a badly done crimp from the factory which had been flattened where it crimps the insulation which had caused the terminal to gradually wear a tiny hole through the plastic multi plug connector causing an occasional short between the two warning lights.

I stripped a few more down a few months ago and think I’ve got an earlier one in good condition, not a lot of use to me for my Puma (I dread to think what that one is like!) I may part with it. I wondered the same thing regarding reconditioning!

Adam, I stripped down four lt230s over Christmas. Two of them were like yours with spun bearings which just dropped off but they should be a press fit. The other two I had to pull the bearings off but it had been thrashed at some point and the planetary gear bronze washers had disintegrated and the gears worn themselves into the centre diff. they seem to tolerate a lot of abuse and wear. I kept putting off building one good one as I wasn’t happy with the wear. I eventually got lucky and scrapped a 300tdi disco which had been fitted with what must’ve been a new lt230 late in its life as was late td5 spec with bigger centre diff bearings and absolutely no wear whatsoever. As disco 2s are dropping like flies now perhaps look to get an lt230 from one which as been used only on the road. I retained the td5 “Q” 1.2 gear set, had my casing sleeved by Ashcroft, rebuilt the centre diff to correct tolerances with Ashcroft centre, Syncro gearboxes hardened intermediate shaft, fitted all new Timken bearings throughout (I did get NTN initially but they were slightly out of tolerance and the input gear would not shim correctly) It’s now a really nice quiet box with almost no driveline slop (I rebuilt and reset the diffs and fitted an Ashcroft ATB to the rear diff at the same time)

Strange one, my hazard lights / flasher relay stops working as soon as the rear heated screen is turned on. Turn the screen off and the hazards start working again. It doesn’t happen when either left or right indicators are turned on, just the hazards. Any ideas? I’m stumped as to why! Only thing I can think of is I have LED lights all round and the replacement aftermarket LED flasher relay.

Not if you get the Puma ones galvanised they aren’t

Obviously. But if you are replacing them the Puma ones are the best

There are actually three versions, the original three part version, the later one piece welded version, and the very late Td5 / Puma one piece version. These last version are all one piece pressed construction, eliminating the visible weld beads and reducing the potential rot spots.

Somewhere I have some M6 plusnuts I bought back from Australia, can’t seem to get them in the Uk. I can try and dig them out. They were bought as for a particular application M6 rivnuts were too small for the hole.

Rbc100111 fit fine on defender front.