Wally

I am presently in Australia and my son is using my 1994 Tdi at university. He told me that the engine is smoking quite a lot, which makes me think that I might need a service of the injector pump and injectors. I am planning to go to RSA in December and whilst I am there to give the KLandy some TLC. My question is as follows: Where can I get the pump, injectors and possiblty the pump pump timing checked in either Pretoria or Vereeniging/vdBijlpark. I would like to have a web address or at least an e-mail address. Failing that a telephone number will do. I am looking for a company that does know what they are doing on Land Rover engines and not any diesel service firm. Your help would be greatley appreciated. Wally Lombard

Does anyone have telephone number/s for an outlet or outlets that sell pirate parts for Land Rovers? I am looking for a new vacuum pump on a 300Tdi. Wally

They sit on the seam where the two halfs of the tank has been joined, thus deviding the tank into a upper and lower half. There are only four or five spots either side. On the back(rear) end and the same amout on the front end. I have only used four of these to bolt the potection plate back namely two in front and two in the back (back being closest to the rear bumper and front closest to the rear diff). The protection plate once removed looks like a horisontally streatched u with two small lips on either end which lines up with the seam on the tank. Once you have removed the tank you will see what I mean.

It sounds like you have corrosion between the fuel tank and the protection plate. You have three optins fixing it. The first is to replace the tank as you suggested - this will be the most expensive option and your tank will most likely corrode again in due time. The second option is to repair it yourself. I have done this by taking the tank off, then drill the soptwelds where the protection plate is fixed to the tank thus removing it. Clean the tank and the plate and then apply a sealant that is fuel resistant. I used a sealent that is used on roads to seal between bridges and the tar section of the road, it was a twin pack product that still stay flexable after curing. I was told this product is the same as what they use for sealing aircraft fuel tanks on the riveted joints. It is similar to silicon sealant but obviosly it can be submersed in fuel without any ill effects on the product. You must make sure that the amount of sealant you apply is more than the cavity between the two plates. Then refit the protection plate and bolt it using 6mm bolts to the tank. My repair lasted for four years before a sold it and it never leaked again. The third option would be to take your tank to someone who would be prepared to seal weld the protection plate to the tank. I hope this help.

My 1984 110 V8 had a joint in the speedo cable just on the engine side of the firewall. If yours have it see if it did not come adrift at this joint.

It sound like your engine is worn, especially if the smoke has a blue tint to it. When you run it for some time under "high" vacuum in the inlet manifold /combustion chamber such as when you go down hill with your foot off the accelerator you tend to suck in oil through the inlet valve stem seals. That is if they are worn. Once you put your foot on the accelerator the vacuum dissapear and the combustion temp goes up, thus burning off the lub oil accumelated in the chamber. When you accelerate hard the oil rings on the pistons do not seal that well and the oil which stay behind on the cylinder walls then gets burned off or gets blown into the inlet manifold through the vent pipes. Check the following: - See if your inlet manifold is covered in oil on the inside - if yes problems - Does your oil level in the sump decrese fast - if yes problems - Does the oil in the sump smell like petrol on the dipstick - if yes problems - How old / used is the engine - if milage is high problems By looking at these you might be able to see if you need to overhaul the engine.