Markoteal

I use Sikaflex but I love the sound of the Captains Creeping Crack Filler!

Hi - now had chance to write a post how we fitted the kit to the car See the photos - all very nice and simple with the help of my mechanic friend - photos show the new expansion lid and connections (remember to snip off the circle connectors that come on the alarm kit and fit female spade connectors so that they can connect to the float lid) Then the wiring goes to the back off the dash, picks up power from the ignition contact and the warning light, test button are nice and obvious between the 12v and rear wiper buttons - the buzzer is hidden away behind Very re-assuring to have it in place - of course I still carry out a visual check every week as well

Yes - agree re not planning to drill my header tank - I think the coolant sensor wiring on ebay is designed for a different car (Mitsubishi) where screwing maybe required - for the landy, by changing to female spades, I believe these slip over the two male spades on top of the Range Rover float cap and then its "just a case" of getting some juice into the circuit and getting the alarm light positioned somewhere obvious in/around the dash. Well that was my plan! And I do thank you RoverDrive for making me paranoid - I'll thank you one day! Right back to my "to do list" - a big tin of Waxoyl awaits me this weekend mi thinks! Where did I put those old overalls?

JBS - just to clarify -is the system you highlighted hooked up to one of these? (with the adaptions you flagged re adding the spade connectors) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111340595177?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Just want to check I don't need anything else (except a good car sparky friend to wire it in for me!) Since reading this post I keep dreaming about running dry!

Hi - while having a look around the engine (1996 300tdi) today, noticed a split on the rubber sleeve on the end of the accelerator cable where it attaches to the pump. Please see attached photo. A couple of questions from a non mechanic a) is it serious? can I leave it a couple of months to the next service? b) if I'm going to change, what is the part actually called? c) to change, is it a case of taking the split pin out, the clevis pin out - then swap out the bust rubber one? is that wire under tension? d) lastly, inside the sleeve, there appears to be some form of pube - what will it be? Cheers Mark

When we are naming products at work, in today's Google dominated world, we get people to describe in 2 or 3 words what they would type in - for me it would be either a) Spray Wipers or b) Defender Spray Wipers A bit boring but as someone said above, it does what it says and its likely to be what most of us would type into that infamous blue box!

There goes my Christmas Hols - I want the full set!

Cheers Mike - that's my best bet at the mo I guess

Hi - does anyone have/know where I can obtain, plans/diagrams of the carpet sections for around the seat box in a 90? Looked in usual places - can't find any! Mine are so disintegrated, I can't get them off in anywhere near one piece or sufficient sizes to make a suitable template.

Cheers Weasel - I am heading that direction myself - I have been thinking about getting a piece of marine ply the size of the load area flow and on one side sticking rubber matting as per your suggestion and on the other side carpet That way, it can be taken out to clean, repaint, dry up condensation etc - left carpet side up when transporting the Mrs and her friend around and then mat side up when I have the dogs in - makes it a true utility vehicle Couple of sliding bolts maybe to secure it to the seat boxes to stop it slipping out the back (imagine it would be too heavy anyway to do that) and if fitted right will be snug anyway. I'll have a measure up at the weekend!

Has I anyone found that they get moisture building up under the official rear load area mat? that fits across the wheel boxes and the floor - in mine it's secured by my 4 rear seat so getting it out every weeks a no no. Been thinking of cutting loose the section that sits on the floor pan but conscious it'll be loose and may move around - what do other people do about their rear load areas - I've seen stable mats mentioned - which I guess will sound proof nicely and be easy to slide out to dry and clear the floor area? what do others do?

How true! Welcome aboard - I'm far too south to offer real assistance but great to have another addict "in the club"

Fair point - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003XDN58K/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Tested it away from vehicle using the internal battery on it has which lasts 3 - 4 hours and works a treat - even with aerials just attached but laid on floor Now I just need to wire it in - hence the question as I know nothing about electrics!

Hi - got a great tracking unit off amazon - cost me £30 - it's great and has had fab reviews Need to get some power and link it to an earth - looking to place it behind the passenger seat and realised I could potentially plumb into the wires that go into the redundant egr control box that is sat under the passenger seat - I had the egr blanked off some months ago but just left the control box and wires as they were. My questions are A) which coloured wires going into the control box are the power and earth? I have tried to study the wiring diagrams I found on here but I'm not sure where the egr control box appears!!! B) as the unit has a fuse in the power wire to it (1amp)I presuming I'm ok to plum into the power at this point as i imagine the control unit had a low power usage like the tracking unit which needs the power to keep the rechargeable battery topped up Cheers guys - first electrical projects on be landy so lots of questions Ta

Hang on - I'll pop outside at half time in the football for a look :-)

Hi - I have a 1996 defender and it has a heated rear screen - wires run along the driver side - if it has had a heated screen previously then I presume you would be able to see signs of the wiring run through the vehicle - I'm not sure if heated screens were fitted as standard as my landy started as a hardtop and is now a 6 seater so the heated screen may have been added during the conversion. I'm sure others more experienced forum members will be able to provide a more conclusive response.

Yes I have a hinged swing away bracket after taking the spare off the bonnet. Trying to lift the bonnet with a big alloy spare on was no fun - and if you are working under the bonnet you are very conscious one thin piece of metal is protecting you from being squashed to death :-( Bracket works fine and if you twiddle with the fittings you can get the carrier and back door working in harmony (although a gas strut will help a lot)

Welcome to the money pit! We love it!

Sounds a fair price - I did lots of looking around 6-12 months ago before I got mine - it's all about the condition - the advice I got was. " sound chassis, sound bulkhead, sound cross member and a loved, regularly serviced engine and you are well on the way"- everything else is tweak-able! So yours ticks many of those boxes!

I also would vote handbrake - your "symptoms" happened to me recently - the adjusts outlined above will help sort it out - especially if you give it an inspection and general clean up Let us know how you get on

Ah - that's what's meant by a "straight non cat front pipe" !

Bet you still find a squashed pea wedged up inside the rim and a soggy piece of onion - my dishwasher seems to save these bits up for every time I have to empty it!

Yes - the auto floor wash (even on a dry spring evening!) is a feature that the most modern Lexus or dare I say it BMW would be "well gel of!"

Just for clarity- when we talk about tightening up he adjuster, above, are we talking the nut on the drum or one of the two smaller nuts on the cable up where the wire leaves under the body and enter the cab. If it's the latter (on the cable) to tighten things up, do I turn the nut on the left ( as I look at them from the drivers side access panel) and move it toward the other nut on the right which appears to be attached to wall between the underside and cab. Ta

Thanks guys - do I literally unplug the wires from the box, chuck that away, and then tape the wires ends over and tuck them away under the cover plate? - Dave88sw, when you say "blank the egr valve" what do you mean? And yes the penny did drop at lunchtime when I was about to start crawling underneath - the black cover plate was removed and it was relatively easy to shift the 4 bolts - front ones dead easy, the rear ones a bit harder getting a grip on the higher hex's to get sufficient grip to free the nuts below. Just waiting for the cubby box to turn up now!