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mnementh

Getting Comfortable
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    tomas@caballarius.se
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    Sweden

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  1. The engine ran just fine! So I will call the specialist Monday and thank him and also get the figures. However, I forgot to thighten the banjo for the boost signal, so lost it after a few miles. D'oh! Well, just have to pop in the local MC shop and get a new bolt and washers tomorrow.
  2. I went to a specialist today and he adjusted the pump for me for a tenner. He had some trouble finding the settings. But he found it after looking in an older system. It was 140 something on the dial. So guess it's either 140 thousands forward or backward from zero. There is actually a mark in the FIP casing where the woodruff slot should align when the pulley adaptor is in it's locked position. Okay, it wouldn't be perfect, but close enough to be able to get you home. I have yet to test the engine, didn't have a torquewrench for the belt tension. Will give it a go tomorrow morning!
  3. The FIP and the flywheel won't fit at the same time. The flywheel timing pin only fits when the cam is in alignment and the FIP is 180 deg out of alignment as in the third pic. Perhaps I was unclear with the pictures. I've sent out a shout on the swedish forum. But here in sweden the old specialists has almost disappeared completely. Here they only swap parts for new instead of trying to repair...
  4. Any recommendations where I can send the pump? Might as well send it as a trade-in and get a refurbished back if it's possible?
  5. Got outside to my defender to get some better pictures. I also was only able to find only one slot on the flywheel. I got the 300tdi workshop manual, here's the page I'm using. This is the tools I got to align the FIP pulley and lock the flywheel at TDC. Here's when the flywheel is locked at TDC. Cam-pulley align perfectly. FIP-pulley approx 180 deg off. The last picture is when I lock the FIP pulley in correct alignment. Looking at the crankshaft woodruff it looks like the FIP is more or less exactly 180 deg off. Guess I'll just give it a try and if it runs rough I'll try and adjust it a little using the three bolts on the FIP pulley. If that doesn't help I'll bring the pump to a specialist. However I guess it means sending it over to Britain as I don't think I'll find one here in Sweden.
  6. But if I turn it 180 deg to get the FIP sprocket to align, won't then the cam-pulley be 180 deg out of alignment? Suppose I could just use tip-ex a new marking. But I think I'll just put paint on some cogs and corresponding belt-teeth and transfer the marks to the new belt and then keep an eye out for someone who can help me re-time the FIP shaft to it's pulley-adapter when the opportunity arises.
  7. Is there some way to time the hub if I remove the pump from the casing? Is there some timing-marks on the pump hidden away under a coverplate? But then again, is it worth the trouble? It pulls a 3.5tons trailer without problem so there is plenty of oomph as it is.
  8. Thought I'd man up and change the timing belt myself. Everything went smooth until I removed the cover and cranked it around, with the old belt, to see how it was aligned. As seen in the picture, when the crankshaft is in 12 o'clock and camshaft is aligned with the casing, the injection pump sprocket is roughly 180 degrees off. Is this a result of previous owner tinkering with the timing and should I then just take the easy way and transfer the timing to the new belt with some paint? The engine runs fine with great emission values during MOT. I have the tools to realign the timing, but should I fix it when it doesn't seem to be broken?
  9. When I had problems with my horn I traced it to a faulty alarm relay. Perhaps worth a check!
  10. I finally got the time today to lift the rocker cover and here is the problem: I would guess it's fatigue that caused the tappet adjusting screw to brake. According to an owner of and old fiat it's quite common on old fiats at least But I sure will be turning the engine a few times by hand just to be sure.
  11. No, it doesn't smoke. And it doesn't vibrate very bad. And you can't feel the knocking in the engine. Well, at least I know what to do in my sparetime for a while... Halfway through I'm lifting the oil filler cap to listen down into the engine. The microphone stayed in the same place all the time on the left wing.
  12. I decided to risk a start this morning to try to locate the sound. It doesn's sound what I would imagine pistons hitting the valves sounds like. It sounds like coming from the front middle of the engine. But this is just an estimation. If I lay my hand against the engine I can't really "feel" the sound. But the frequency suggest it's from a cylinder? Thanks to technology I made a recording so that you can hear the noice. What do you reckon? Somewhere in the middle the knock gets more hollow and that's where I'm lifting the oil cap to listen down into the engine. V0417000.MP3
  13. Thank you for the identification tips! My first reaction was that the sound was coming from the top, left side of the engine. But I was in a hurry to switch it off so it could have been my imagination and I didn't really have my head very close to the engine. The only noise from the engine before have been some squeaking from the waterpump, hence my first check with the serpentine belt removed. So it shouldn't be a bearing. But you never know... But one problem is I am quite unsure how much I dare run the engine at idle while trying to locate the error? Is it "safe"? It starts nicely and doesn't run very uneven at idle so it shouldn't be catastrophic?
  14. Yeah, I suppose it's time to take a deep breath and calm down and try to be methodical. Luckily a can do without a car for some days and go by public transportation and the weather is warm enough to work outside. But any theories and suggestions are most welcome!
  15. This morning, while driving to work, one of my nightmares came true. While accelerating from 2nd to 3rd gear the engine suddenly lost power, started to vibrate a bit and this horribly klonking sound with a frequency of 2-3Hz. Switched the engine and rolled to the side. My first thought was that perhaps the timing belt had slipped. But shouldn't it have run worse then accompanied with a lot of smoke? I removed the serpentine belt to exclude waterpump etc and gave it a try: it started immediatly and didn't seem to run that bad except for that klonking sound so I shut it down again after two sec. Would've been nice if I only hade to change the timing belt and a few rods... But now it sounds like something much more difficult and expensive. Perhaps a bearing somewhere? But shouldn't I have noticed that before the breakdown? Thought that I should try to get some input from you before I try to diagnose any further It's a -98 with 180000km behind it.
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