woff

Thanks for all your input I am going to look into putting the disco mounts on the chassis. Cheers Woff

Well hello all, I am under going a new project to convert my county 90 V8 in to a 200tdi from my discovery. I've already done a 90 TD to 200 tdi before but this is different. I've bought a short stick lt77 from ben m and i've my 200 tdi from my hugely missed white disco. Here's the clinch. What do I need to do about the engine mountings that are on the chassis for the V8. I was thinking of cutting the mountings off the discovery. Is there a different way like finding some td/200tdi engine mountings so I can still use the exsisting chassis engine mounts?? I need to change the v8 cause I'm going to start using it every day and also the previous owner took it for a swim at tixover and it 's killed the engine. Any input greatfully recieved. Rgds, Woff

What else have you done to the engine? So far I only have ; Replaced Head Gasket. You have fuel at injectors. If you have got a decent battery then that should create enough compresssion to start. I'd use another vehicle to jump the battery to really fling the engine round. Remember no more than 30 secs starting or your'll burn out starter motor.

If you were to venture out of town, have a look for bale wrap repair tape. It's very sticky and about 5" wide and not very expensive. I've given up on both of my d2's leaking and taped them up. Problem solved

Better to rock down to local scrappy and rip one out of his. Cheeper anyway

I thought that I may share my experience with all. I removed the under engine tray earlier this year to repair a leaking water pipe. The only way I could remove the tray as it was already cracked was to break up the tray in situ. However I'm now slightly regreting that now. From the wet weather weve just had created a slight issue that I came to a "T" junction and went straight on. Not turning right where I wanted to go but into the hedge the other side. I put this down to the fact that the water that I was in was making my fan belt slip so I had significant reduced steering. I'm going to retrofit a shield to stop this as you would be surprised as to how much steering you don't have with out PAS.

Hope this doesn't tread on any onces toes but i found this. http://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb/intro It says that Rover had already designed the TD5 before BMW arrived they just approved the project.

Again all depends on how keen you are to jump in to the new electric series. I've got a couple of 200's and a 99 DII. There is a lot of difference in the ride of a TD5. I'd go for a 5 seater as springs on the rear instead of airbags. You can pickup a DII for 3500 on ebay. Same price as a low milage DI 300. There is more that can go wrong on this series. I've done ; Fuel regulator Radiator coroded water pipes Propshaft damper Nothing out of the ordinary and nothing really too hard on wallet if your prepared to do the work yourself.

The outer steel bush that is the suround for the rubber inner part. The bush needs pushing out once removed or you won't get a new one in.

Thanks all for the help I'l be getting on with replacing the bushes this weekend. Many thanks

Well I think I've got to the bottom of the noise that comes up from the front axel. It seems that both my lower shocks have disintergrated. I've ordered a replacement set from foundry and I hope that this will cure the thuds from below. I looked underneath, held the roll bar and gave it a good shake and to my amazement it looked as if the shock wasn't connected. Just passed MOT aswell. Bush is just visable in the centre of the pic below. Is there an easy way of doing these bushes? I think I'l just lift the front body up with forklift and see what happens. Cheers in advance.

Gd luck with the order. There's a huge amount of people who have a lot to say about Paddocks but that's a completly different story. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12032 I have looked in to a Nanocom keen to get one too. May be a self present to myself for completing uni.

Well I still havn't done mine. The new one finally arrived from Tamar after about 10 days late, bar studs. Did how ever check the return pipe wasn't leaking but sadly not the case. I need an afternoon without my disertation on my mind to change it. And from what I hear alot of patience.

Yep had some fitted to my 90 V8. Ripped them out because the guy I sold it to couldn't fit in to the bucket seat. Now fitted to the Series III V8 looks good. The seats are cobra fitted they have the tab on the rear of the seat which I've cut a groove with a small disk cutter and the rear tab slide in to stop the back tipping up and the holes line up with the front seat bolts. I'll find some pics

If you go to any fabrication place with your truck and tell them what you want they'll do it no probs. I used to work in a fabrication workshop if your up to paying for it to be done propper then this is best. Proberly cost you less than buying the standard BM fiture for the rear door plate.