choob

Unfortunately I have to take what I get down here in Kenya I'm not sure what the distributor is, it doesn't have a mount for the ignition amplifier. It's got a (new) points conversion kit. I've got spark from coil but nothing out of the HT leads (about 6 months old).

As per title. Are there different kinds of caps? I have the blue one and it won't fit my lucas distributor.

I just found them too stiff. We can sometimes get Monroe and can also get heavy duty shocks from a local company that rebadges some aussie brand but also very stiff damping. Most LR spares shops here only stock Britpart, Armstrong and Bilstein now that the cars aren't so common anymore. We have a Bearmach dealer, they do make a 2" gas shock, is that any good? I do have Bilstein in the store and would prob put those back in rather than spend more money.

Kenya. Thanks for replies.

I've got Bearmach 2" lift springs installed and broke a few shock turrets before it occured to me that I need the lowered turrets. Now installed 2" lower turrets and have been told that I don't need to change bump stops as the standard shocks have 2" of unused up travel. Can anyone confirm this? I don't want to start bending shafts now. Before anyone says - I don't want to use longer shocks as all I can get here is Bilstein and I hate them.

The original filter box was dented and had gaps. I'm using Ram Air oiled foam filters. They come with a 'dry' lube which I now cleaned and applied filtrex oil so let's see if that helps. Otherwise is there a decent filter that fits direct to the carb? I was using AEM paper filters on my Vogue with no issues...expensive tho

Thanks paintman, I did follow a similar timing procedure with no luck. It turns out that the carb pistons were dirty and stuck. We have dust like talcum powder here which would get inside the cabin of even the 04 Vogue I had and it's obviously getting past the air filters. So within the same week we lost both spark and fuel but all is good now, thanks everyone for your help!

Sparky soldered something in the dizzy and we got our spark back! Now we have another issue - car ran for 1km and then cut out. Won't start again. Have spark. Neither Sparky nor me know how to set timing properly, we set the static timing based on TDC at cylinder 1 then advanced it a little until car would start and idle smoothly. Could the new non starting issue be caused by timing?

We've traced the issue to the distributor - all parts work fine when installed in another car except the distributor. Resistance at the pins where the amplifier plugs in is 2.9, I read somewhere it should be 1.6? I can't find a new distributor anywhere, I tried a used one which was worse. Can I buy the britpart electronic conversion kit and put the bits in the current distributor? I already had the cap and figured I may as well change the leads as they were so old they had turned black. Original color was red.

I have ironman springs/ bilstein dampers which is a really nice combination

Changed HT leads, IAM and dizzy cap and now I have no spark from the coil. Tried a new coil and still no spark. I have 12V when measuring from both coil terminals, is this normal? Any ideas on getting spark back?

I have a brand new alternator for a 3.9 efi model, will it work with this engine? Current alternator has a multiplug with 3 wires

Still misfiring when the muffler is loose. The IAM multiplug snapped when I pulled it off so I'll change that and HT leads tomorrow. The ignition light has always been dimly on, only visible at night. Is this normal?

The hangars were broken and I drive 20km of corrugations every time I leave the house, but it was a bit rotten at the junction of pipe and box. Will disconnect the joint before the box and see if there's a change

He just welded the existing pipe back on to the muffler, no new parts. I'll try have a look to see if the hole got blocked but it seems unlikely

It was ok, but it was also ok on the drive home after fixing it. Regarding ignition, he was saying that two plugs on each bank weren't sparking very well. What other ignition checks can I do? Carbs not rebuilt afaik. Does the carb version have an ignition amplifier?

1978 3.5 zenith carb V8 Range Rover Opposite to the previous problem I had, the car is now bogging at low revs, better at higher revs but feels like it's misfiring. Backfires on overrun sometimes. Can't find a vacuum leak. Looked at plugs, two looked good and two were fouled. Same on each bank. Mechanic thinks either HT leads and also wants to check tappet clearance, though I'm not sure how that's related. The only work I've had done recently is to weld the exhaust on after it fell off the centre resonator. The car is behaving similar to a car with blocked cats, but I doubt they blocked the hole when welding...? Any tips?

It seems ok since I changed the fuel filter...although the oil pressure sensor started leaking today. My mechanic says 'see you next week' everytime I go there >.>

It does have Strombergs, not SU. Ignition seemed ok, was hoping it wasn't the pump as previous car (3.9) had in tank pump but this has an external pump so if that dies shouldn't be too much of a pain to fix. I don't know how to rebuild carbs, and I sure don't trust anyone here (east africa) to do it except maybe a couple of old rally drivers who used to race them.

Thanks for the replies. The breather is ok, and I changed the fuel filter today. Let's hope that helps. Thanks again, I will report back.

Had a problem crop up today on the RRC. It's got a 3.5 carb engine. After driving WOT, e.g. to overtake, the engine started hesitating when driving more slowly, reluctant to rev and needed the revs kept up or it would threaten to stall. The problem goes away after a few minutes but comes back if I drive at WOT. I dunno how carbs work, any help would be great.

Update. These have gotten progressively more comfortable (or my bum has gotten progressively more used to the firmness). Good on tar too. Would recommend the combination.

I had a set of pro comps fail on me near the somali border. Not a fan. Also generally not a fan of anything heavy duty unless the car is going to be loaded up. The rear armstrongs were ok but the front ones were completely gone after 2 months. I ended up getting the B6 dampers with Ironman springs. King springs were my first choice but the main supplier didn't have a full set; the other supplier adds a 50% mark up, paints them red and puts his name on them, which is crazy for springs that already more expensive than most. Much firmer but not harsh at low speed and a bit bouncy in the back over speed bumps. On the gravel stretch it was great, much more control than the OEM parts they replaced and not at all harsh or bouncy like you get with some raised or heavy duty kit. Bloody hope they last more than 2 months, the whole set cost 800USD plus fitting. Thanks for all your help!

Have you got a part number? Do they last?

Before you tell me to search, I have. Lots. It's only made me more confused. Most comments simply state that xyz is 'better' with no explanation. I'm driving a classic Range 3.5. Installed OEM spec Armstrong dampers 2 months ago and they're already dead. My commute is a 10km drive down corrugated gravel before I hit tarmac. The car is seldom loaded with more than groceries. I'm looking into Bilstein B6 dampers with OEM springs. Some say they're horribly hard, some say they're great off-road, some say they're only good on road. Does anyone have experience with them?