mattD110td5x

The raptor ones all look quite wide and would block the vents. Something like this one - can't workout where it comes from;

The centre consoles I've seen are all fairly wide, The mud one is much wider than the standard 1 DIN in a MY2000, maybe even 100mm wider? I'm looking for something thinner that will take a 2 DIN and that doesn't block the vents - In oztralia I use the vents a lot. I don't need 10 carling rocket launchers or six 50mm gauges, just a space for a 2 DIN car stereo. has anyone seen anything that is a bit more minimalist? - mattD110xtreme

It's a BJ80 or probably the Mil spec version from BAIC Motors; http://bj80.baicmotorsales.com/ Saab 2.3 turbo four, 250hp and 350nm, mated to a six-speed manual or a six-speed automatic, sending power to all four wheels.

will the Chinese release the new defender before Land Rover?

I had a similar thing happen to me (MY2000 td5). When the coolant level gets low enough to make the temperature gauge move there will also probably be an airlock in the system. I had to fill mine, drive a little, refill a couple of times before I could get the coolant and temperature to be stable. Of course the question is - how did the coolant get so low? For mine I'm pretty sure the pressure valve is gone and the system is running open. ttfn Matthew

Hi all, A friend has just been for a swim with an Evoque key fob. The immobiliser still works, but the door open/lock function is stuffed. Would prefer to just replace the circuit board in the fob so that the immobiliser on the key stays the same - does anyone know of a reasonable second source for an evoque key fob and/or the circuit board inside? ttfn, MattD110

Last September I had a bit of a crisis, loaded a mountain bike into my TD5 Defender and did a 3 week/7000km round trip from Sydney to Cooktown, catching up with old school friends and riding trails here and there - the first holiday by myself since I the 1990's - just camping, sleeping in the back, staying with friends and in backpackers. Rode and sea kayaked around Magnetic Island - fantastic! Then in January this year I did Sydney to Hobart, a couple of laps of the Tasmanian south coast and back via the Victorian alps - a bit shorter maybe 4000km all up. This time the wife joined for the Tasmanian leg, so we were in hotels and B&Bs. The Defender is a perfect vehicle for long distance roadtrips - just be prepared to tale a while. - Matthew

Hi All - sorry I have been away for a while... great to see everyone is still here! The passenger front door button came off in my hand the other day as I was pulling it up while "someone" was pushing the button in on the outside I have a replacement button and am ready for an attempt, so; - do I have to pull off the door card? or is there a secret method that involves surgical instruments and half a hacksaw blade? ttfn Matthew

Sounds very familiar... try the quizz I'm pretty sure that the ECU should record a low voltage voltage fault. Have a close look at the crimp on the positive feed to the battery. The picture below would be OK sometimes and not others, for me it first surfaced in the starter solenoid.

In a previous OT thread --> How to change the main bearing [in a frontloader washing machine] I had the delight of consuming precious tool time on non LR equipment Upon dissassembly - of the balls I could find - most of them looked like this.... I've seen "out of round" balls before but not split ones - is this a common failure mode? is it related to how they are made? ttfn MattD110td5x ps the frontloader is back together with 2 nice shiny new bearings - and all good with SWMBO.

Yes I know I should not waste my precious tool time on non-LR activities but I need some real help here. Has anyone out there replaced a main bearing in a frontloader washing machine? (the one at the back between the inner and outer drum) It's a kleenmaid (on the front) but I think it is sourced from LG. but, having spent some too time on a Bendix in the past I think they are pretty much all the same inside. I guess I have to... 1/ remove battery negative terminal (I don't know why but it always starts that way) 2/ remove belt, remove belt wheel nut (~22mm nylok), remove belt wheel, (slight percussion may be required) 3/ now I'm lost - do I have to remove the whole inner/outer drum from the machine to push the inner drum shaft out, so I can pull the bearing out the back? - or does the drum move far enough to get at the bearing? - or it all pop out into your hands once the nut is undone? (yeah right). thanks, ttfn Matthew

Hi All, I can remember a few snippets here and there over the years for hints on re-riveting the rear of a D110. I've done a search and not found these old snippets (maybe they were from the "other place" So, - what diameter rivets? - what kind of rivets? (blind) - what material (Alu or Monnel?) - I think I can remember something about SS washers on the inside, is this a good idea? - do I need longer rivets for this? As a matter of fact - how much of a blind rivet should protrude past the rear surface? - does anyone use any anticorrosion or sealant around the rivets before popping? - and finally - the tool - compressed air pop rivet guns were all the rage as it gives better control and lessens the possibility of the gun scratching the paintwork - I think there was a post about placing a large piece of wood on the front of the gun to stop this - any hints? I am planning to put together a techarchive type post once I get all the hints together. thanks, Regards Matt

After 5 years of.... Why did you get one of those? No I'm not going to drive that silly LR thing home from the party.... It is so big compared to the Suzuki, Today, at 08:47 Australian Eastern Standard Time, The Wife drove the D110 for the first time with me trying to stay calm, relaxed, supportive in the passenger seat. Then, while I was at work - she drove the LR again - BY HERSELF - JUST FOR FUN!!!!! Is this dangerous?

Or for a more agricultural look (with the wheel on the wrong side American Dirt Roads - Full Metal Jacket ttfn Matthew

In the old days (well in MY2000) pin 19 was only connected if it had ETC/ABS, the Wabco needs to know the revs to make a "guess" at what to do with the ETC. ttfn, Matt