katluke

Vehicle now gone lads.

It's just laid there lads not getting used,be ideal for green laning or plenty of bits on it for a project.

This hasn't moved for months just been sat on the drive so it's free to a good home if anyone wants it. Tax ran out and 1 day of test left,it had 1000s spent on it while I've owned it and has some decent parts fitted. ST tyres HD suspension HD trailing arms Single box exhaust Recon engine and host of parts when Washington Landrover fixed it for me New clutch was fitted New water pump Head gasket Loads of other stuff like new cills,rear floor etc. FREE to good home.

Just got back from Offshore for the Mrs to inform me that the clutch pedal on her car goes flat to floor and stays there,she did manage to get it home by keep lifting the pedal back up to change gear. I've been told there are two cylinders on this unit,one on the pedals and one inside the gearbox. Not sure if this info is correct so any more info or how to fix this problem would be great. Thanks for any replys .

How is the passenger side sill on yours ? I've worked on a few now and the passenger side always seems to be the worst, always a few other areas also needing a repair once you start stripping the sills out. It's not as daunting as it first seems to be repairing the sills , and the box section is a lot stronger job. If we didn't repair these old Discos with rust issues there would not be many left lol.

If your sills are totally rotted away like mine where and you need to fully replace them ,when you cut it all out be sure to leave the piece of metal in place that runs along the bottom of the door frame opening that holds the door seal in place.(Hopefully your sills won't be as bad as mine were). I used this to clamp the box section too as it puts the box section exactly in the correct place and at the correct height it needs to be fitted at. There is a few pics of how I done it in " Made a start " . Hth .

Well the engine went bang on this last year (2014) and ended up taking it to Washington landrover who fitted a recon bottom end,turbo new water pump,clutch,head gasket, etc basically a full engine overhaul.Test ran out on it and It had been off the road for about the last 6 month but I renewed the vaccum pump and got it all road legal again , also had to do a repair/modification to the auxiliary bolt that had stripped but it's back in daily use again.

This one had been repaired with a helicoil and when I stripped it down it was all broke up into little pieces so didn't fancy doing it that way again .

I only drilled through the outer casing at the 10o'clock posistion and through the centre housing that the bolt fastens into. The length of the hole drilled is about 55mm. On the pic it looks like the dowel goes through the casing on the opposite side of the housing but it doesn't,the dowel is just pushed hard up against it.

After having enough of the tensioner/ belt squeeling like a pig on my 300 tdi I decided to fix it. Firstly I bought a new bearing for the tensioner wheel but this didn't cure it so decided to investigate further. What I found was that the long bolt that fastens the tensioner unit to the casing was loose. Easy fix I thought get a 15mm socket and just tighten it up ! However the bolt just kept turning and I realised that the threads in the casing for the bolt were stripped. After calming down and getting over the shock I composed myself and searched the net for an idea how to fix this. There is a few ways from using heli coils a new casing or stripping casing from engine and putting a new bolt in from behind. What I did find was that people had just turned the bolt around and inserted the longer threaded part of the bolt into the casing and this had caught any remaining threads. I stripped the tensioner unit from engine and when I removed the bolt a broken helicoil and other crud came out from the bolt housing. Luckily I tried the bolt in reverse and it did indeed catch onto some remaining threads.I cleaned out the bolt housing then I put some Locktite onto the bolt and tightened it as much as I dared. I was waiting for parts to be delivered so had a bit time to think about fixing this bolt more securely as I wasn't 100% happy with it. I'm not sure if it has been done this way before but this is what I came up with. I drilled a 3mm hole at the 10'oclock posistion through the casing and through the bolt housing,through the bolt and out the other side of the bolt housing. I then slid a 3mm stainless dowel through the hole and then cut it off 10mm proud of the casing so I could remove it with pliers if ever needed. This should now hold the bolt very secure and allow me to torque the nut up on the tensioner to 45nm and with no chance of the bolt failing and the tensioner falling off. I will keep checking it from time to time just to be sure. Here is a photo of it . Edit to say could have probably used 2 mm stainless dowel but I didn't have any.

Thanks for the advice Snagger it had been fine before the trailling arm snapped,but now you have ponted it out I will have a closer look when I replace the seal.

Yes they were OEM ones that were fitted. Sorry no pics the local scrap men took them out the garden. It had broke off at the base ( t piece ).With it swaying about getting it home the seal at the front of axle is leaking now ( were prop bolts into ) So thats another job that needs doing.

Well i eventually got round to fixing this,turned out one of the trailing arms had snapped.Now repaired with a pair of new heavy duty type.Thanks for the replys.

Jumped in the Disco tonight to call at a friends and ended up having to turn back home due to the back end feeling like it was swaying all over the road ?? Basically I drove over a couple of speed bumps going down the street and then when I went to turn right the Disco was all over the place.I stopped straight away and got out to check to see if I had a puncture but I didnt, but could have sworn thats what if felt like ? I nursed it home and then tried it again on a farm track near the house and its all over the place.I will have to have a good look at it in the morning as it was too dark when it happened.Any ideas what it could be as it honestly felt like the back axle was loose ? Thanks for any replys.

Heres how I done mine http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65387 hth

This Disco has been finished for a while now,all road legal .Unfortunatley I deleted the photos off the camera by accident showing the rest of the work to complete it (gutted)The photos I deleted just mainly showed repair pieces made and welded back in where I had removed rot from the inner wings and above the rear of the cills etc. I bought a large sheet of aluminium to make repair pieces for either side of the body where I had to remove it to get at the old cills and my mate welded them on using the mig with the gas and wire changed (clever git).As I had to buy a large sheet there is some left over (foc)if anybody needs some to repair there vehicle. hth. I also renewed the discs/calipers on every corner and also this month had both swivel bearings, all universal joints, and a new prop fitted (old one bent). There is probably other stuff I have forgot to mention but happy now its all done and back in use. .

A couple of weeks ago I had the Discovery out and felt a little vibration,thought nothing of it.I had it out today after being offshore for two weeks and there is a bad vibration there now.Its hard to say if its coming from the front or rear but it does come on when I accelerate and seems to lessen when I ease off.Just looking for any advice before I take it to the garage to be looked at .Just had it out around the field and the vibration isnt coming through the steering but seems to be from the drive train.It seems to stop when I dip the clutch.Thanks for any replys.

I only cut mine out as it was rotten and was going to have to be replaced anyway and also I preferred to remove all the existing sills and replace with heavier box section.It just happened that doing it this way seemed to make the job a bit easier to do. hth

Nice work as usual.Ive just started back on mine again this week.

Got a bit more done today.It wasnt the best weather to be out in the garden welding,it was raining and windy.My mate fully welded the rear crossmember up for me,remembering to leave a gap were the drains are on both sides.(Both drains now work as they should have)Definetly a better job fully welded as oppposed to the original way which is tacked and stuck together with body seal.Here is a couple of photos. Passenger side. Drivers side. The next job on the rear crossmember was to weld in the end caps which fit on both sides(obviously). This is them. And here is a couple of photos of them welded in.They were plug welded and also welded on the edges.(As originally done) Passengers side. Drivers side. The cills on both sides were then fully welded up and the rear pillar boots fitted,also the part which fits on the inside of the cills were fitted. Passenger side. Drivers side. Inner cill piece (passenger side) Inner cill piece (drivers side) Then a couple of repair pieces were made and welded in on the rear floor. This one was a bit awkward to weld due to the body sealer in the join. Next job is to do a couple of more repair pieces on the arches then weld the rear floor panel in.

The rear floor panel £50 Paddocks,z bars and rear floor supports £75 AL services (ebay),Box section £50 Steel2go (ebay),rear crossmember,4 pillar boots,2 inner cill supports,4 body mounts and 1.2mm steel panel £300 Yrm. hth

I continued work on the rear crossmember today.I jacked the chassis up so that the new crosssmember made contact with the bottom of the door pillars.I was then able to check the measurements I had taken and plug weld both door pillars in place. Passenger side. Drivers side. I then jacked it up a bit higher so I could remove the props and lower it down back onto its tyres. I then decided to assemble the rear floor panel and the other parts that go with it.I figured the easiest way to do it was just to tack the z strips to the panel,then turn it over and tack on the support bars. Top side. Bottom side. I also had to tack on a plate that holds the brake line in place (It can be seen in the above photo). I then measured the width across the back of the panel so I knew how wide I needed to cut out the old floor.I then cut the rear panel out and a couple of bits of suspect metal. When I removed the old floor panel the brake line was so badly corroded it just perished when I tried to remove it.Does anybody know the part number for this piece ? I now had very easy access to the fuel sedimenter. So I removed it to clean it. It was full of a jelly like substance and a lot of odd looking gunk in the bottom(I had expected this after seeing other posts regarding the sedimenter) I need to fabricate some repair panels next and also fix the broken brake parts when I find out the part numbers for them.I laid the new panel in just to check that my measurements were ok and the panel fit. Seems like im starting to make a bit of progress now.

Before I continue on with fitting the rear crossmember I will re post how I fitted the cills as I accidentally deleted them off here.Basically the cills on both sides of the vehicle were non existant.Rather than fit the original type cills I decided to fit heavier box section.Here is a pic of the parts to go in. This is what I started with. First thing I done was unbolt the front seatbelts then drill out the spotwelds holding the frames in place. As I had decided to fit box section rather than the original type cills I needed to completely remove both the inner and outer cills from my vehicle.To do this I removed a 90mm strip from the front of the floor all the way to the rear. As both of the pillar boots were completely shot I decided to use this piece of trim that holds the bottom of the door seal in place to enable me to position the ciil at the correct height and place. I then chopped a small piece of floor out above both body mounts so I could drill the heads of the bolts off as they were too badly corroded to get out any other way. Front. Rear. Once I had removed the heads I then bolted the new mounts into position. Front. Rear. This is the 100x60x3 box section that I am using.Its a lot stronger than the flimsy original cills.It is 1450 long with a 30mm back cut on the bottom at the rear (aesthetics) I then slid the box section underneath the vehicle and lifted it up between the new mounts and the door seal trim.I knew this would keep the cill at the correct height and in the right place.I then clamped it in position. I then tacked the cill in its position (my mate will be fully welding up all the parts)Here it is tacked to the door seal trim and front mount. And here it is tacked to the rear mount. Here is a pic from the inside of the cill tacked in place. The rear pillar boot will be fitted at the weekend but the front boot will not be fitted until I tackle the inner wings.The drivers side cill is also at the same stage as this one now.

Im new to posting Photos,and unfortunately I deleted them from my album.I will have to see one of the mods and put them back on.

Heres how I supported the body(I made good use of the holes in the floor lol) I should have posted these photos earlier.I cut the bottom of the body mount bolts off so when I jacked the chassis up it would also lift the body up so I could prop it up,then when I lowered the chassis it would seperate the body from the chassis when it was lowered back down to its normal height.This left me enough height to remove the old crossmember and also enough room to slide the new one in.Here is a photo of how i propped it up. And another. I then started on the passenger side removing the rest of the old section. And here it is all removed. Same for the drivers side. And removed. I was then able to bolt the new crossmember in place. And another shot. I will tack it in place once it is lowered into its correct position,ready for it to be welded up at the weekend.Then the next job is to replace the floor panel and supports.