MBE_NZ
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Posts posted by MBE_NZ
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sorry about dragging this out of the graveyard - but couldn't find a more appropriate thread in my brief search
I have a TD5 Defender running 1.4 ratio LT230 which has very noisy internals so I think it would be best to get it rebuilt
I'm thinking / considering changing ratio to 1.2 and loading a Disco map into the ECU - would there be any benefit in this / would it work OK or would it struggle with power issues in a defender using 1.2
alternatively would I be better off keeping it at 1.4 and fitting roamer drive or would it not have the guts?thoughts?
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Do you know what controller or timer you have?
If you connect using wbus it should work as can be independent from vehicle system. CANbus totally different story
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thanks guys.
the exact miles the TD5 has done is very hard to say (in NZ we pay road tax on KM base for diesel vehicles) the previous owner drove only 80kms in nearly 3 years and I know he traveled a long way each week in it. I would estimate the engine has traveled over 600,000 kms - I've personally driven it over 200,000 kms
I run K&N air filter - which is still as good as new - your air filter Lightning is scarily impressive
Yes I changed the oil and both filters when i refitted the turbo. also changed the oil and filters again after first 300kms due to paranoia.
If anything I probably over service my Landrovers. the TD5 gets engine oil & filters every 10 - 15 thousand kms & diffs, TC & Gearbox every 30000.
The 3.9 disco (modified, lifted on 35's, 4.1 ratio diffs with lockers etc etc) I service probably every ~1000kms incl the TC & diff oils but thats only used off road and works hard
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well I have had the original turbo repaired and finally reinstalled it. noticed blackened intercooler hoses so cleaned them out and I have ordered a provent 200 catch can for peace of mind. I also noticed very worn fanbelt - so replaced belt - drove ~60 km's and new one shredded - then noticed the tensioner bearing was shot and not turning. have ordered replacement OE tensioner and another belt
is it possible that the tensioner and turbo dying are connected in any way?
I had noticed that the steering was a little hard, but Voltage was 14.1 when running (about norm) and brakes felt fine, oil pressure and coolant temp showing in normal range on Madman
Anything else I should check? I don't want to have to repair / replace turbo again - was NOT a cheap repair, would have been cheaper to have bought new one :-(
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Hi guys, well the turbo blew on my 110 td5 today, loud fan belt screeching kind of sound with instant loss of boost. Limped along the freeway a bit to safe stopping area. It was blowing a lot of smoke (actually looked like steam but smelt rubbery) popped hood. turbo very noisy.. Removed air intake and the impeller centre very loose.
So time for new turbo. Thinking I should make the leap to a vgt (or variable vane or whatever they're called) while I'm at it. I have the performance map (from Mastaz) fitted with larger aluminium performance intercooler. Any suggestions? Advice please?
It's my daily driver and need vehicle on the road so need to get sorted quickly
Thanks in advance
David
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apologies for waking up another old thread, but I'm trying to fit a rev counter into my 2002 TD5 Defender. it is an original gauge. Pin 19 on the black ECU plug has a yellow with pink trace wire fitted (looks like factory fitment) I've connected the rev counter to this pin and it works, my question is - Whereabouts would I find the other end of the cable that is already in pin 19 / what would it be connected too? I cant see it behind the instrument panel. There is a yellow and pink cable in the instrument harness which goes to the speedo, but surely its not the same one as others would have mentioned it... any help appreciated
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thank you for responses so far. the "pegging" looks like what the bolt would be for (I couldn't thing of the word) so thanks again
I'm guessing that if the pinion isn't driving the crownwheel (as in no drive shaft) that it would behave like this - IIRC - with rear of vehicle on Jack stands, that if I rotate one road wheel the opposite road wheel rotates in opposite direction.
Thinking that I'll take the diff head out to ensure its all good for peace of mind as concerned that I "May" have possibly damaged some teeth (also want to check out the ARB locker for any markings as considering adding locker to front diff)
I will try an post a picture of the shaft and hub end to confirm if it is RRC style. - definitely thicker stronger looking axles than standard disco ones. I understand may well be interchangeable, but be great to know for sure
thanks
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Hi there, I recently broke the rear prop shaft / drive shaft on my 95 disco. So I removed the shaft and thought I'd be able to just engage the CDL and drive away using front wheel drive. however the rear wheels were to be fighting against each other and I heard a clunking noise. So I pulled out the right rear half shaft / axle and was able to drive the vehicle home using front wheel drive
I haven't got replacement drive shaft yet, but noted that when I removed the half shaft that it was different to "normal Disco rear axles" I have seen, in that the half shaft isn't part of the hub end - the shaft itself is thicker / wider diameter (I suspect heavy duty) and the hub ends / cap on the rear are metal rather than the rubber caps like on the front hubs.
The diff looks like a standard rover diff (not Salisbury)
anyhow - I want to check out the differential before fitting new drive shaft or replacing axle / half shaft, as I'm concerned over the clunking noise - that I may have damaged the diff too, It does have ARB air locker fitted
I have attached a photo - can anyone please tell me what type of diff this is and also what the bolt is for / what does it do?
thanks in advance
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HELP - common point in wiring? heater fan, lighter / power plug, radio
well the auto electrician replaced brushes & I think regulator. so now all good on the charging front, unfortunately now the heater fan, lighter / power plug, radio and spotlights don't work. I have checked all the fuses and replaced primary candidates just in case, but no faults found. is there a common point in the wiring???
interesting thing tho is that the heater blower works if the webasto is turned on, but this has totally separate wiring loom
I know the auto electrician had a LOT of trouble getting the repaired alternator back into place - they asked for an extra day to fit it... I didn't see what they did to get it back in, but the spotlight cables were cut in front of the grill and I now have crimp terminals open to the weather in front of the grill (the cables were sealed all the way up to the relay which is located by the brake reservoir) there was also coolant splattered around the engine bay which to me is really odd. surely they would not have removed the radiator, intercooler, A/C, nose cone??? either way I don't have time to drive back up there for them to sort it, so am again asking for your help
The heater fan, lighter and radio are fitted as tho from the factory, the spotlights are aftermarket, so could possibly be excluded from this, I have also traced the spotlight wiring & all looks OK - maybe that relay is dead
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Haven't really been playing, but did install dual battery system a couple of months ago, which I.disconnected on Friday. No wrong connections of jumper leads. Unfortunately the light kept coming on intermittently thruout the weekend. On way home I couldn't get it to go off again so have parked up 3 hours from home. Vehicle is in front of auto electricians as I hoping its just bushes, but I guess I will be here at least one night as this small town is all closed on Sundays... Doubt parts will get here until Tuesday oh the joys of owning landrovers in New Zealand!!!
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Musta been gremlins - I went for drive and over the hump at the local railway crossing and the volts returned to normal... but feel I should still follow-up with possible reasons / causes if anyone has any ideas
that is assuming I can replicate it or that it reoccurs
thanks in advance
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OK odd problem I need help with.
battery light is on constantly - showing 11.7V (normally 14.x) with vehicle running
TD5 2002 Defender
I gave someone a jumpstart yesterday which mayor may not be relevant - it is also pouring down, so possibly water effecting it?
is there anywhere/anything obvious that I can check?
I need to travel quite a distance in next 3 days and really need to be able to start vehicle with key and be able to drive it several hundred KMs
thanks in advance
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replaced indicator/high/low/flash/horn switch and all sorted - bit of holdup removing steering wheel, but got there without using a gear puller in the end
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2002 TD5 defender - with the "pink" dim-dip relay. which I have removed. it only had two contacts so have jumped those two contacts - I assume that's correct. lights seem to work OK - no obvious difference in amount of light coming from headlights
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May seems to be the month for odd head light issues...
Got my TD5 back from warranty gearbox rebuild and my headlights no go when switching on using the main switch - HOWEVER if I flicked the high/low/flash switch, they would come on. OK - so I didn't look further as had work around.
now a few weeks later, on the way home last night, the deadlights don't work at all - EXCEPT when holding the high/low/flash switch in the "flash" position, luckily I have flood lights so was able to make it home without blinding oncoming drivers - But I need to drive home again in the dark and would like to get this sorted during my lunch break.
I had the steering column covers off and the switches and connections look OK, fuses check OK - where else should I look / check?
sidelights are fine - side/head light switch was replaced last year
2002 TD5 110 S/W
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did I hear someone saying they were looking for some wolf wheels???
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I only have one set of tyres, 35 12.50 BFG MT KM2's
what vehicle is this on Lewis? I have 33 12.5 15 Cooper STT fitted on zero offset 8" modular rims (TD5 110) as I didn't think 35's would fit on a Defender without lift and / or cut...
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please excuse the totally ignorant question -
I have recently acquired an 85 series 3 SWB and have been offered some 35x12.5 tyres fitted on 15 inch 10.5 wide rims and am wondering what I would need to do to the vehicle so they fit OK. the rims are fine - I'm concerned about tyres doing damage to the vehicle - guards, undercarriage etcQ1 - some people mention a "2 inch lift" what exactly is included in "a lift kit" - is that body lift or sping lift or both? also
Q2 - would a "2 inch lift kit" address any concerns, would 2 inches be enough or would it be unnecessary at all?at this point I'm just wanting to ensure that the vehicle will fit the wheels without doing any damage. I will do doubt look into the offroad capability / articulation etc later too
any advise appreciated -
I have installed an eberspacher airtop 2000 heater in the bottom half of mine, yes it included cutting out the majority of the wooden base and of course vent holes. It fits snuggly, but is very effective AND the whole vehicle gets toasty!!!
the eberspacher is actually mounted on the centre access plate and the cubby fits over (and around it) I haven't yet got round to fitting a "false bottom" / messine shelf above the heater yet - another one day task!
externally the only visible portion is the round vent plate facing the rear seats where the hot air comes out and on closer look a small pipe pointing at drivers feet). The heater controls are currently mounted in gearstick surround mud console.
when said one day arrives, I've been thinking could be useful to have dividers (a bit like a deep cutlery tray) in the top half / mini messine floor in the cubby
sorry - 2002 TD5 9 seater S/W
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apologies for naf question but my wagon is up country.
Could please anyone tell me the dimensions of the holes where the heated seat switches would go (if one had heated seats) the holes beneath the electric window rockers?
thanks in advance
David
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By the lack of updates or photo's do I take it the 6 quid looms were a fizzer???
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OK so I've discovered that the GT Radial Adventuro are entry level tyres...
I've played with the pressures and still aren't that happy with themI think as the vast majority of use is on road and that I'd like the wider footprint - if my snow chains will fit. I am also planning on obtaining a set of steel rims with off road tyres)
So
I've narrowed my wish list to 4 different options all of which I'm happy with the load & speed ratings:
a. LT235/85 16 BFG AT's - (instant winner if my snow chains won't fit on 265's...)
b. LT265/75 16 BFG Rugged Terrains,
c. LT265/75 16 Mickey Thompson STZ (or possibly even LT265/75 16 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3) or
d. 265/75 16 Bridgestone Dueler 697
really hard to get good honest / unbiased comparisons on the net or from tyre dealers for obvious reasons, so anyone willing to share any experiences / recommendation / warnings to stay away from?
Thanks
David
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anyone have comments positive or negative from experience running 235/85 16 - General Grabbers (use as above) or Maxxis Buckshot (thinking spare set of play / off road wheels)
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Thanks guy - appreciate the comments. after I'd posted and logged off, I remembered that I only increased the tyre pressure over Christmas / summer period as was nearly always running heavy loaded. I wasn't running this pressure pre last November, so definitely a easy and cheap place to start.
I also realized that the 265 would be 75 profile to be the same (almost) circumference
not sure why we run harder pressures here. maybe its a feeble attempt to get more out of our road tax??? or possibly just after the more solid feel - I recall when I purchased this wagon is seemed quite spongy so upped the pressure to mid 30's to counter act.
I think I'll drop them to 32 and 36 rear for a period and see how they feel.
thanks heaps for responses so far
transfer box ratio
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
if the Lotto comes in that wont be an issue - however the odds are that one gets hit and killed by a bus 8 times before you get a decent winning on Lotto here in NZ and I live a long way from buses, also rarely buy a ticket ☹️
makes "slim to none" sound good in comparison