Scooby Jim

What I meant to say was that there is no Kick as such and the boost is well below 15psi below 1500rpm, I'll do a video of my boost gauge if i can set my go pro up to see both. But honestly the power is progressive and seamless,all the way till it runs out of puff, but I think that one of those pump timing advance spacers may help. The EGT rises under hard acceleration to over 750 degrees, but my understanding is that as long as you aren't pinned at that temperature all day you should be fine as the oil will dissipate heat into the oil system, and that when you let off the temps nose dive. I recently did a day greenlaning, and the temps barely got over 2-300 degrees, and the engine performed flawlessly, easily and effortlessly taking everything that came its way. The centre diff lock lever didnt fare too well, so need a new one of those lol.

It runs like a dream tbh, so effortless, its transformed the drive. If you like to waft around, but have decent performance (its a Disco they arent a performance vehicle) then this would be ideal. IMHO well worth the upgrade for the money if your turbo is duff. Its "standard" in that it fits inside the standard housing, but Hybrid in that the compressor wheel is a different design (one more vane), and its Billet. So technically a Hybrid. But not a typical Hybrid where the hot side is standard, but the cold side is larger and a different housing. As above, definitely gains imho.

From what I have gleamed you wanna keep it below 700 degrees C so 1292F depending on which you prefer. Yeah ideally would be better to have the probe directly into the flow of the hot gasses, but will have to keep an eye on it, worst case is tapping into an elbow as I have one of those. I am NOT fancying tapping into the main manifold casting. BUT Feedback. Having drive her now and done some fettling, diaphragm turned up about 170 degrees from standard, boost compensator screw 45 degrees forward, and about 4 clicks of the star wheel, and currently reading 19psi boost at the inlet manifold. The difference is immense, the power is continuous all the way to the next gear change, it is effortless. I am thoroughly pleased with the outcome, and would FULLY recommend this to anyone who's turbo has gone and is planning on getting a new replacement/refurbished unit. Whilst not being a full blown Hybrid or a variable vane jobbie this works as a benefit, it is easier to setup, easier to manage, and its a nice subtle upgrade. The difference to the road behaviour means I can actually not have to change down for hills, the engine will quite happily sit at 15psi and cruise up, obviously if I wanted to I could increase the boost and go quicker but I don't feel the need. I am going to have to fit the EGT sensor and see whats going on and try and fiddle a little more. On a side note a 300TDI Defender 90 couldn't catch me, it was smoking heavily (rolling coal??) and was obviously had things turned up to max, so seeing as I was 3 up, and not finished setting everything up yet (so wasnt being daft) I was pleasantly surprised. Done a bit of heavy towing today, a car trailer with another Disco on, from my mates garage up to my other mates fathers place so we can strip it, now this was on typically Welsh roads up towards the Black Mountains, this then led to having to tow it up a steep loose ground lane, that I got stuck on as it turned to lose broken bricks and stones. The engine pulled and pulled and pulled, and didn't at any point struggle, where as before with a semi loaded Sankey trailer on you felt the weight and had to use gears, where as it happily cruised up hills and everywhere in third and was happily sat at 15psi, only reaching 19psi when an idiot pushed past me not realising I was towing.

After a LOT of messing around I butchered the Bearmach oil return pipe so that I could get new braided hose on it. Anyways this was done and the gasket fitted (or so I thought) and oil leaking, LOTS of choice swear words, and the gasket had turned when I loosely fitted the front bolt. So removed the bolts then refitted a new gasket, and this time the job went well (despite my hands being faaaaaaaaaaar too big to thread around the turbo manifold). So fitted that and got the EGT sensor probe. You can see on this pic the boost controller, plumbed between the inlet manifold and direct to the actuator.

Its technically "standard" as the compressor housings are standard, but the compressor wheel is different and made out of billet. So its VERY VERY uprated, lol. This is a standard compressor core (the one I got originally to rebuild, but the manifold was fudged) This is the uprated one. Right I have fitted the turbo and given it a run, and I have good and bad. Good being that I set it up at 18PSI at the inlet manifold and when driving the power comes in at 2000k and its a constant push all the way till you need to change, the difference is unbelievable, my mate who also has a 300tdi with his boost set to 1.5bar (daft I know) taken off the feed from the fuel pump boost feed, was in the passenger seat and his reply was "**** ME THIS THING FLIES!!" It is seriously quicker, but I haven't set up the pump as yet, and have ordered a not chinese rubbish EGT gauge and sensor, so I can setup the fuelling and boost correctly. http://thesensorconnection.com/egt-probes/meter-kits/egt-probe-kit-race-series-dp Bad news is this. The original and the new oil return pipes DO NOT FIT PROPERLY, they leak badly from the upper seal, (I dont know whether this is due to the core or not, it just needs to be longer) the Bearmach hose is even shorter than the OEM hose, but need it longer, and I am having to have a new return made by my mate who owns a hydraulic hose company. So will sort this issue and make removal of the manifold and turbo MUCH easier in the future. Also trying to flush the oil (required for new turbo esp after a failure (plus to keep warranty)), I had to cut the end off the oil feed, and push it into the return hole, and hold it here with my hand at times, as the hose flipped around the bay. Video here.

Engine all run up to temp, oil flush added, run for 20mins oil dropped. Replaced with new filter and oil. New actuator fitted and ready for instal now.

I went and picked up a Turbo that was "dead" so i could strip it down, and rebuild with the new core. The turbo looked ok, but when I stripped it down I found it was fudged. Initially the manifold side was cracked, (this I emailed the rebuild company and they said that it should be fine), BUT the next issue was the killer, the scroll underneath was cracked and causing the impeller wheel to hit the sides. So this just acted as a practice session for my own. Some pics. Now I decided to bite the bullet and take my one off, so started the strip down, replaced my original intercooler the amount of oil inside was horrific. The turbo came apart nicely after I made a specialist tool to remove the core bolts, basically a 13mm swan neck spanner with the head ground down to fit between the cores fin and the bolt. Made life MUCH easier. I have replaced the oil feed and return pipes, and the adaptors that screw into the block are now sealed in using PTFE tape, and its all ready to go back on.What I will be doing however is cutting off the end of the old oil feed pipe and routing it back into the block, this will allow me to run the engine till the oil is warm with oil flush inside, as I have new oil and filter. I have also fitted a Banjo onto the rear of the manifold for the new boost feed to the actuator, have also changed the turbo outlet from a twin feed to a single feed, this will allow the fuel pump feed to remain the same. I also have ordered a manual boost controller and a boost gauge with a pod, so will start off with the spring pressure in the new actuator I have also ordered. Only item I am debating on, is an Exhaust Gas Temp sensor, with probe in the EGR blank.

Anyone have a dead turbo for sale, that I can stripdown to build this? As if I run into snapped bolts or studs on the turbo fixings I can sort, also makes changing over a bit easier. Will be getting new oil hose, feed and return, new gaskets etc etc etc.

Turbo Core has arrived and I'm really pleased. Time will till tho.

Probably, but as long as its air tight and holds pressure thats all that matters.

Some VERY interesting reading there, however when I said what I wanted to do my brother bought me an intercooler after going through my Ebay watch list (as an idea only). So now I a tube and fin Ally intercooler. I want to get hold of an old 300tdi turbo so that I can strip it down and fit a new core to, as if there are any issues with bolts or studs snapping in the cast Iron I can sort this whilst still being able to drive the vehicle.

No I havent, do you have a link??

I have done some investigation and the turbo is definitely fudged, I took the intake pipe off it and put my fingers onto the compressor wheel and tried to rotate it. The wheel would would NOT turn easily, infact it was quite hard. With my Impreza's TD05 journal bearing turbo it spins quite freely, but this I had to use two fingers to grip the nut, this would turn about an eighth to a quarter of a turn then a LOT of resistance. This resistance would get overcome all of a sudden, this repeats every eighth to a quarter of a turn. I've ordered a new intercooler, and going to take a punt on a "uprated" new core, I'm not expecting anything great, but for the cost it seems good.

My bad when I said straight through it does have a backbox. Same as this below, the system which was on it originally was fudged, and only had a centre section and back box, so I can only imagine it has been removed in the past. The oil had a visible trail from the turbo, and there is definitely play in the shaft. Its a different turbo to my Impreza but both are journal bearing turbos, a TD05-16g and the Garrett T250, and it deffo has a LOT more play than it should. Will have a proper look as you can hear it trying to boost, but its just smoke and no real urgency, just feels like a peppy 2.5 n/a. I just thought that if I were to replace the turbo for a like for like, then it would cost more than a slight upgrade with that core. As the core uses the standard intake housing,the boost can be managed to keep the boost safe. Can you confirm this for me?? That there is a threaded hole (blanked with a plug) on the rear of the intake manifold, that can be used to fit a banjo and a vacuum line so that the actuator is run from manifold pressure instead of turbo exit pressure, so that the losses that usually occur with intercooler piping is over come. Also that using a manual boost controller, (NOT bleed valve) set to manufacturers boost levels will stop any actuator creep??

Snorkel will remove the restriction on the intake, and also has a ram effect at speed. As for EGR, was removed before I had it, and the standard exhaust never had a DPF as far as I know, it was just a standard centre box and rear box, which was rotten and full of black carp. As said the engine is on 80k, as it had a recon engine at 120k. I know its not the stem seals as the intake pipe pre turbo is getting lots of oil in it, and there is shaf play, yes I know that journal bearings will allow some lateral movement, but mine has linear and lateral. Its deffo the turbo.

This is it now behind my Disco Its already earned its keep, with a few heavy trips to the local tip. This is her sat before the Nato hitch was moved onto it upper mount pictured above, you can see the holes drilled on the original to bracket. I got hold of a second tub for parts.

Hi guys, I usually post with the series guys as I have an `88 Series 3 1972 3.5 V8, but I also have a discovery 300TDI ES. Now my turbo is on its way, smokes a lot, and has blue smoke on overrun after first started, I have taken a mate who has a Disco and he confirmed my thoughts. She had a recon engine on 120k odd, now just turned 200k, and it runs sweet as a nut. So I am thinking of upgrading the turbo. It has a straight through exhaust, EGR delete, pump turned up a tad, and a snorkel, so I was planning on getting a Hybrid turbo core, new actuator, and a standard position larger tube and fin ally intercooler, and a boost gauge. What you guys think of this core?? It is supposed to fit inside the standard Garrett turbo, and give earlier boost etc etc (insert sales pitch here). https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_5481949-Uprated-Billet-Hybrid-Turbo-CHRA-Core-452055-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-Turbocharger-Cartridge.html

With my Landy project having hit a snag (engine rebuild), I need to clear my garage out of stuff (to do the rebuild work). Also had to replace a 6m x 6m pitched roof, so there is broken baord and bitchumen everywhere. Now I did have a 6x4 trailer that my dad made decades ago, but my OCD brother saw the wood was rotted and axle was gone (indespension setup so no axle), so scrapped it. So needed a trailer so I bought this Just gotta go and get it now. In need of a clean up, rust treatment, and a damn good lick of paint. But should serve me well, and will look great behind my `88.

Yeah thats next, battery is on charge and its a big-un. The before is there, so the after is all need.

Way I'm feeling I may see if I can fit it on the back on my artic trailer and drop her off somewhere, and pick her backup ready to rock and roll. But the majority has been done, just this, and I wish I had done it when I didn't have the front end done lol.

Swansea. The rotor arm isnt too easy to move. Yeah but from experience if the h/g valve issues it can feel like amiss as your down on one cylinder, and possibly backfiring through valve so making it feel like a miss, without it being a miss.

9.35:1 the higher compression engine, have been told that it should be around 150+psi??

Is this anything to worry about?? My compression test results.

This is the site I found for comparison of SU needles. http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

I totally agree, but I have to get her running right before I can get to the stage of selecting the right needle. What was confusing was that it was running ok but as soon as I tried to get her to near TDC she got worse and worse, to the stage just slightly advanced of TDC, she coughed died and backfired through the carb. This to me is totally down to ignition timing and not needle selection. Once I have got her setup so that she idles and revs freely (the BAK needle will just make her lean for now), and then I can take her to get setup properly with a larger needle. She is NOT on the road atm, hasn't for at least 10 years, so I am fighting against a dodgy bodger previous owner, and years of not running (I'm not sure she has ever ran correctly), all whilst learning. The last Carb I worked on was a Pierburg 2E3, and that was 1997 lol, so been a while, and I've never worked on SU's. I have to source an exhaust still before I can do that, but see what I can get sorted.