Scooby Jim

No worries, was just going to use heatshrink on the end, just to be on the safe side. I wouldn't go too hard on it, but my luck would be messing something up.

Got some bits through today, shame I'm working nights for next 4 days Plugs, leads, Vacuum advance, and dizzy cap.

Was going to wrap some electrical tape around the end tbh, atleast with the plugs removed makes turning it over a damn bit easier Would this plan work?? Insert stopper and turn engine normally till it stops, and make a mark where the timing bracket is now, then reverse the engine back to the stopper and again make a mark. Now when she is on the second stopper bend the timing bracket to the third mark, halfway between the two previous marks, this giving true TDC. Atleast this way she should be able to be setup timing wise, meaning I can get cracking with the carbs. I fully understand that I probably will have to change the needle at some point. This tool will again come in handy for when I eventually go megasquirt/jolt (for the spark only), but thats a looooong way off

Bowie, made this last night. How far out would the bolt have to go to make contact with the piston near the top?? I'm planning on fitting a rubber boot over the end of the bolt, so that it doesn't damage the piston inadvertently.

Looking at the comparison site then from a look (not knowing really what the hell I am looking at), would show that BBW BDR needles would be what to look into?? They are both very similar to the BAK, but run richer.

Once I have got her running better, I will take her to get setup on a r/r, as then that way I can get the correct Needle fitted. Any suggestions as to what needle would be best?? I'm 99% sure it has BAK fitted (standard). Found this site so I can check against what I have now. http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t125/JamesAllen1982/LANDY/WP_20160604_19_33_01_Pro__highres.jpg

This is as close to standard as I can get atm, as the Rover p6 style air assembly is not complete.

Yeah I think its does, but its deffo in the wrong position, which would make a difference. Once I have made a piston stop I'll mark up where tdc is. My thinking is that if I leave the crank pulley on the second mark I make, then when I go in-between I'll need to bend this marker to where the mid point is. That way I can mark TDC on the pulley, and also determine where that guide should be. Does that sound about right??

This is my timing mark and its bent, is this a standard part as I'm assuming not as it looks a bit Heath Robinson.

Yes, brand new. Its the timing mark being out, then the carbs needing final tweaking. Does the video work in the link I posed to my Facebook??

She runs nicely tbh, its just as soon as I try and time her up I get these issues, yes she dogs a bit if you dump the accelerator, and she likes a bit of choke to start. See if you can watch this video from Facebook, I've set privacy to public so it should work. http://www.facebook.com/Jimbob.Voaden/posts/10156936493045316 Yes she is a tad smokey, as I had put some oil in the cylinders, and a tiny bit of two stroke in the petrol, to help coke things up.

I take it that this is the way to do it?? I shall be making one of these in the next few days, ingenious.

I dont and Im assuming that the fuelling is incorrect and the idle is also, BUT the problem I have Im sure is ignition timing. And that the mark (thin bit of plate) has been bumped, so that when I advance the engine to this mark or slightly advanced of that I'm moving the timing too far advanced, so igniting the fuel/air on the pistons upstroke, rather than just at the top/downstroke. I will look for the piston stop TDC. Have ordered New leads, 8 x NGK BP5ES, and a new dizzy cap, and new vacuum advance. I will remove the Dizzy to replace the vacuum advance, and go from there.

From how it runs, I tho k the plugs need changing, and the marker for tdc is out. My thinking for this is as follows; when the engine timing is "retarded" (according to the mark on TDC), assuming that the mark has been nudged to the right so advancing the mark, by timing to the new location could lead to my timing being way too far advanced. By doing so cause all the issues I have above, the coughing spluttering, and general carp running. My plan of attack next is this. Remove plugs, and compression test (just for health check). With a helping hand put a small socket extension bar into cylinder and when the crank is moved slightly back and fore determine when the piston is exactly at the top, and then see how this corresponds to the timing mark thing. Fit new plugs gapped correctly. Remove dizzy and replace the vacuum advance. Refit dizzy, with new cap, and leads (currently have Britpart leads). Then get running without using the timing marks, as if I can get her running sweet, then the timing must also be correct. Then get my strobe and see how far out the timing mark is to the mark on the pulley. The only real way to see what is going on would be to take the cover for the timing chain off, but thats more work than I'm hoping to do atm. Maybe worth doing if, or when, I change to ecu controlled ignition and coil packs.

Yes bud, this is how I know that if I get her to near TDC when running she starts running like a bag of poo.

http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums/t125/JamesAllen1982/LANDY/Timingcarbs/802277e9-10c8-4611-b029-908a75468045.mp4

Right I have gone out and done the old fashion test first, finger over the plug hole and turn the engine by hand. Now the piston in cylinder 1 is indeed at the top, and with the rotor arm pointing at lead 1 for cyl 1. Spark plug removed, then fingertip placed over the said hole, and the engine cranked. First thing I noticed was suction as the engine was turned, then not a lot tbh, then as the engine had gone around too nearly twice, there was a fair bit of pressure coming from said hole and then stopped. Just before this pressure stopped I checked a look at the engine crank and it was a little before tdc (on the mark), then just before it hit tdc, this pressure stopped. So this to me says its setup correctly I'm making an assumption here, so as long as the rotor arm is set to fire electric down the lead to the cylinder that is needed, at the correct time, and all are in the correct order, then the orientation of the dizzy is of no real concern?? Now I tried running mine advanced, reading the SD1 manual it states this. Dynamic (with distributor vacuum pipe removed). 10 Degrees BTDC @ 1200rpm. 17 Degrees BTDC @ 1800rpm. 22 Degrees BTDC @ 2600rpm. Mine was idling fast at 2000rom, and would run like poo at TDC, then advancing to slightly one mark BTDC she farts and pops and cuts out. Something is not right lol.

It is pointing at #1 spark plug, but also pointing at #1 cylinder too. (See below) Vacuum advance is goosed, the diaphragm has gone (will be getting another). Yeah well ANYTHING tdc or advanced make it run like a bag of poo, if at all (I think she is sparking on exhaust stroke). Yes I did, spark is NOT my issue I think (points were fudged ). What I do need is someone to take their dizzy cap off whilst at tdc so I can see the orientation of the rotor arm, thats assuming the dizzy hasn't been fitted incorrectly. I set the crank to TDC (allegedly) and this had the rotor arm pointing at the cylinder 1. If I can get a pic of the rotor arm at TDC then I can see straight away if she is 180 degrees out. Thats what I am thinking tbh. This is the pic I was referring to in that the rotor arm at TDC points at cylinder 1. Which is basically this. Now I have found this online, so assuming this is correct, mine is indeed 180 degrees out. Popped into Lidl earlier for some Brekkie as I was working last night, and I like their croissants. Anyways picked this up, has a mirror attachment so I can see what the Valves are doing too. The more I am thinking about it, the more I am thinking that the engine is not timed up correctly, esp as it runs better with timing retarded.

I am having issues with the Rover V8, this maybe the Carbs as I had them restored by Burlen, and apparently were set to manufacturers settings (need setting up). I am aware that this could be the issue, in that the balance, mixture, and idle needs setting up. BUT........ Engine set at TDC*. Rotor arm pointing to Cyl 1 literally points at Cylinder 1, directly at the front bolt passenger side of the inlet manifold. Leads are set in correct order. Leads on Dizzy set as 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. Points removed, and replaced, with a hall effect electronic module, and new Rotor arm. Brand new low pressure fuel pump. Brand new coil. Will be getting new leads, new dizzy cap, new plugs. Exhaust wise, manifolds and y-pipe only (VERY LOUD). Now when at Idle, and set timing a tad retarded with a timing light she idles fine (revs with a slight miss). Set to TDC she is lumpy, farts and misses, revs badly and sounds like its spluttering. Set to a tad advanced, and she coughs through the carbs, and dies and cuts out. *Now could the engine be 180 degrees out to the Dizzy?? I have NOT removed the Dizzy. I bought the vehicle as a non runner, and have had it running, but its always not felt right, be that bogging down when revving, or idling at 2000rpm. I have videos of her running, but for some reason my Photobucket will not upload videos

If in doubt you could always use this, but was told that this is harder to form into shape, and can be brittle. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CUPRO-NICKEL-FUEL-BRAKE-PIPE-HOSE-LINE-25FT-FOOT-3-16-4-76MM-1-ROLL/191411360861?_trksid=p2045573.c100034.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140107092241%26meid%3D02291c96dfad4ef7baa9ae31d2ce2660%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D201275717065

I found the Ezeebleed only good for for initially pulling the fluid through, then it was a 2 man job to bleed properly. I redid most of my brake system on my series 3 going from a single line setup with no servo, to servo assist twin line. Bought this kit off ebay, cheap and did the job well. Atleast you wont get the same Imperial fittings like I had

Found a guy selling these. Oil filter remote kit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-series-2-3-remote-oil-filter-for-rover-V8-conversion-/151989902935?hash=item23634dde57:g:ytIAAOSwWTRWyJGR Spacer (in need of ally welding). http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-series-2-3-gearbox-to-rover-V8-conversion-ring-/151989894169?hash=item23634dbc19:g:PkYAAOSwe7BWyI3E

I have a Rover SD1 V8 in my series, and it uses the series 3 gearbox and Milner Phillips mounting ring and oil filter relocator (came like this). The oil filter needs to move as it fouls the chassis. Some pics of mine. You can find these occasionally on Ebay, and if you want any pics I can get some for you, as shamefully its still not finished. Does he still make these?? I will be needing an exhaust as mine is all naff.

Will be watching this with interest.

Speak to Burlen, they are very helpful. I'm sure that one of their guys would be able to explain the best way to remove the tube.