Scooby Jim

I have fitted the passenger front drum, and plumbed it in. BUT the bugger will not turn easily, I have to put a bar in the wheel and even then its a struggle!! The adjusters are all the way off, the cylinders have no fluid, I have gone over the inside of the drum with a flappy disk on an angle grinder. The drum just does not want to go over the shoes Something is most definitely wrong here And one last thing, when LR say LEFT and RIGHT for the brake parts which side is the Left and the Right?? As it depends on your perspective. Anyways pics. Having removed the drum from the above brake now, there is a definite problem, as the shoe is catching the drum, and I have rub marks, on the leading and trailing edges, as if the shoes aren't round Any thoughts??

There is a possibility that the backing plates could be the wrong way around, o/s on the n/s?? Would it make much difference with them being at an angle, as both have the same angle towards the rear.

Fronts done, with supply pipe fitted and new bleed nipples, all plumbed up backwards (nipple at the top). Now all I have to do is to fit the drums, then make a new brake line up, from the flexy, through to the bottom cylinder.

And painted, should be ready for building up and fitting tomorrow

Painted up the joiner pipe. Backing plates drying, next stop paint

This is the switch I have.

The rears are fitted now, Also I have started on the fronts. Drum all cleaned up ready for Kurust. Drums all Kurusted up.

Cool will dig out the switch I have, and see if its any good. As long as the two ON poles are separate, then I don't see why I can't use it. As long as the control switch doesn't get two positives going to it, then I think that should be fine, as all I'll be selecting is the route the trigger goes.

There is an option but expensive, is to go the Davies Craig route, where you remove the vanes on the water pump, hollow out the thermostat or replace with a disk with a hole 1/3 the size, and fit an electric water pump. This would be controllable from inside the cab and able to be set for what temp you want. And instead of being dependant on engine revs, this would be flowing as per the water temp alone. Would allow cooling after the engine has been shut down, continuing till it reaches a certain temp. And in winter when it gets below a certain temp the pump activates, so to help alleviate freezing. But can't I run a single +ve that splits into two, one to the upper On, one to the lower On, then run these through to the thermostatic switch, then the one feed to the relay, this way the only activated circuit will activate the relay??

Cheers so far guys. As for the thermostatic switch being automatic, I know. It seems daft, but the switch has two operating ranges, and all I was wanting to do was be able to change between the two if needed. As for my Kenlowe I am pretty sure its single speed, as its an old one. So the idea was that if I noticed the temp gauge staying quite high (stuck in traffic or heavy use with not much flow), I could lower the temp the fan kicks in. Its not to have a twin speed set up, but just to chose between the two temp ranges. I only have a standard series radiator, and having never driven it I don't know how the V8 deals with heat. This is what I had in mind with the 3 pole on/off/on switch.

I am going to be starting to wire up the Kenlowe fan I have, and I have a RDX twin temp fan switch. Has anyone wired one up using an On/Off/On switch, so that the temp the fan kicks in at can be changed in the cab, instead of manually changing the wiring?? My plan was to wire it up so that there would be power going to the switch so 1st position on, would be the low temp setting, and then flick through off to 2nd position on to the high temp setting. So when cruising around it would be nice and warm, but for towing or off roading it could be flicked to cold. Does anyone know if this is possible using the one relay, or is it going to be a nightmare and I'm better off changing it over manually??

Rear Drums done. Just leaves the fronts to do, but they are currently fitted, so will need a dry day to remove. Wet Kurust. My drying lamps , moved them closer to dry quicker 2 x 500watts Kurust all dry. And all painted with Hammerite.

And finally completed the shoes and Cylinders. Just need to clean up the drums, and then move onto the fronts

Both done

Kurust has gone off so I painted the first up, whilst I did the other. Just waiting for the other side now, as I've media blasted it, and applied Kurust. So waiting for Kurust to go off and paint the backing plate. Then when dry I can start assembly of the shoes, then move onto sorting the drums.

Well last night went to move the Impreza after finishing everything, and the bloody clutch slave popped out of the clutch (pull clutch). And the circlip that holds it in place has a very lightweight easily broken cage, well thats popped off, so Gearbox off to replace. So I didn't take it for MOT lol. BUT I did crack on with my backing plates, one done, one remaining. Now to do the other one!!

So progress today. New battery - DONE. Get compressor fittings - DONE and FITTED. Change number plates - DONE. Pump up tyres on Scoob - DONE. Pick up blasting Cabinet - DONE. Let the FUN begin , after the Scooby's MOT tomorrow Blasting Cabinet.

Well hopefully, it will be ok. Have had an email reply from Atlas Copco (who made my large compressor), and they are putting me in contact with their regional parts distributor/stock holder. So hopefully there may be able to get the big one back up and running , fingers crossed for Atlas Copco to come through, as all these big companies are all about sustainability now, and repairing older stock as opposed to throw away and get new I have been busy whilst working (parked up in my Artic waiting to deliver/load) and have sourced a replacement loom for my `72. As mine was carp to start off with and then my brothers attempt to "help" has had it's toll. The loom is from a "Land Rover Series 3 1979 SWB Station Wagon, 2.25 Petrol. Wiring all carefully removed, many bulbs/relay units left attached, in Very Good condition. There is also the rear end loom, this will need some connectors replacing, as they were snagged being pulled through the chassis, and some earths refused to undo." So my plan for today (Friday) is this. Go and get a compressor fitting changed from 1/4 inch to 3/8ths, so I can run my larger hose. Buy a new battery for my Scooby for MOT Sat morning (not looking forwards as its been laid up a fair few months whilst I rebuilt the engine). Change number plates on my Scooby for legal ones Fit air fitting to new compressor and pump up tyres on Scoob. Go and collect the Blasting cabinet, so I can crack on with this brake refurb (seems to be taking MONTHS).

Awww its so little!!

Thats the pump, but was a bit unsure as it said piston, with this being a twin piston is that doubled?? God knows I don't care as long as it works lol. You should be able to work it out (volume) with a tape measure and some maths. Lucky for me mine has a nice sticker

Its 14CFM, at 9-10BAR. Will be replacing the feed from the tank from a 1/4 inch fitting, to a 3/8 fitting. So for using the retractable air hose and regulator I have all 3/8, so the regulated air feed off the new compressor (has one off the tank, and one regulated near the pressure switch) will power smaller stuff like my air sander, tyre inflater, and spray guns. I'm also going to attempt to use the old compressors cylinder as a twin setup, so new compressor feeding the old bottle so combined will be around 250-300 litres combined. May well melt the new motor, but one way to find out lol. Tbh I'll not be a heavy user of the air tools, so as long as the compressor can keep up with occasional use of the guns I'll be ok. But will let everyone know how it gets on. I wish I could find parts for this Atlas Copco compressor I have, as would be nice to have both going.

Yep its a £300 mistake :-( Should have this delivered in the morning (Thursday).

Nah the conrod is an alloy of some sort, and I'd need the big end redone as it got hot with no oil and seized Am looking at a new compressor, but will try and look for the parts as this is (was) a damn good compressor

Well I started to get the sand blasting done, BUT I had to stop as the compressor stopped working So started to strip it down as I thought the motor had seized, but having ruled that out, the conrod on the piston has seized, so had to be snapped to be removed So I'm either looking for a new conrod for the Atlas Copco TE22E, or a new bloody compressor. Anyways here's a couple of pics of the damage Apologies for the amount of colours on my Landy, she will end up the Yellow of the bonnet

I have these. CP734 - 1/2" Torque rating 576Nm (425ft.lbs) CP772 - 3/4" Torque rating 1356Nm (1000.lbs) An air chisel/hammer, and an air drill. My spray stuff and die grinders live in a different drawer.