Scooby Jim

Can anyone confirm that the larger fitting on the master cylinder is 7/16ths?? As I have tried a M10 and 3/8, both slide in, the 1/2 I have will not fit not even close My blasting cabinet hasn't arrived, as my mate was getting it off a contractor in his works and they taking ages. But I have ordered new bleed nipples and a full set of all unions I will need. This is my headache, Master Cylinder is UNF 3/8 and 7/16, the new twin pipes will be metric M10, onto Metric brake hoses, then onto a Metric converter to UNF 3/8 onto the cylinders. The UNF and Metric combination is going to get annoying lol. But I'll have to make a laminated page with the diagram on, with the sizes and explanations. As in the future it could become a p-i-t-a. But I have fitted my retractable air hose ready so I can use my air impact guns on the stubborn leaf spring bolts.

Worth doing then!! WIll have a look out for one.

This is exactly what I'm planning tbh, I'll have 11inch brakes all around with the 3inch wide D.L.Es up front, with 2 inch wide S.L.E on the rear. As for the brake warning valve 100% NOT fitting it, as the reservoir I have has 2 compartments, so if one leaks it shouldn't lose all the fluid. But I'll always check before going out in it, along with oil, and water. Now to find out what thread size the master cylinder is :-)

This is exactly what I'm planning tbh, I'll have 11inch brakes all around with the 3inch wide D.L.Es up front, with 2 inch wide S.L.E on the rear. As for the brake warning valve 100% NOT fitting it, as the reservoir I have has 2 compartments, so if one leaks it shouldn't lose all the fluid. But I'll always check before going out in it, along with oil, and water. Now to find out what thread size the master cylinder is :-)

Just a question, I am upgrading from Single line, to Twin line, using the master cylinder below. Now are the threaded fittings, the same size or different?? Also are the pipes from the rear cylinder, and the front cylinder different sizes?? And the main one, which is front/rear?? Green/Red??

Your the second person to have said that tome today, but about different cars Must be a theme from my youth

Right Slight update, have decided NOT to fit single line brakes, and have bought and fitted a dual system, all I have to do now is replace the piping to the split (front/rear), then possibly larger diameter line to the front cylinder. I have all the parts now bar adjusters (mine move) to rebuild them and have started on the rears. I should be picking up a sand blasting cabinet in the next few days, so once I have that I can clean up the backing plates, paint them, and start assembling. I had to temp fit the fronts, as I needed to have front wheels on, so stub axles and half shafts are fitted ( have to remove stubs to fit seals, and then refurb front brakes). The Fronts I'm going to plumb backwards in that the bleed nipple is at the top, apart from that its like the later ones. Oh have also replaced the clutch master cylinder, and have a new slave to be fitted. And got some new brake pipes, and some unions, pipe bender, and flare tool. Bearmach loved me that day!! Anyhoo here are the pics. And the rear brakes.

All these battery electric cars are a total gimmick, they need days to charge, and have a range of 20ft, water kills them, and the more gadgets you use the less distance you can go. Even these hybrids are a gimmick, as they carry large batteries, and this kills everything. And not forget the electric crisis we have now, as coal fired stations are closing down, there is no real desire for nuclear, and the associated costs of building new. Look at your utility bills now, then imagine how they would be if you have to charge 1-3 cars from your mains, let alone the added costs from new power plants. We are running a reserve of around 5% capacity now, add everyone coming home and charging their electric "Eco Car" the grid will fail, lights will go out, and the 1970's 3-day week will be back (already talk of manufacturing plants adjusting working hours to work around potential lack of supply). Why the Hydrogen fuel cell cars haven't been made more of is only the work of the fuel producing companies. Its the real future. I mean you can have the electric motors, and without the weight of the batteries, so range is further, handling is better, and costs are lower. You could drive across europe and assuming the petrol stations sell liquid hydrogen (as they do with LPG), you could fuel up in say 5-10 mins and drive as normal again. I remember a guy from Honda saying that the Hydrogen fuel cell was so efficient that you could run your house off it, and drive to work for that week, and use the same volume hydrogen. So imagine living with a car that can power your house, that produces water and oxygen as byproducts, that uses hydrogen that is created from hydro-electric power. For me these electric cars are a waste of time and money, and I want them to hurry up and make the Hydrogen fuel cell cars, so that we can finally live greenly. And then all this suddenly available petrol that there is little use for can be used in my Series V8 and Impreza Turbo

Because of the way people work, they will MOT it before they take it out, then lay it up and then come holiday season its "Oh damn need an MOT for the caravan!!" And because there is need, people will get it sorted, and with all the small companies will offer pre MOT's with servicing, unlike the normal clean and spruce and away.

So best off with Goodrich??

Do these have good reviews, or do I just get some Goodridge?? I have a 1972 SWB, but the brake lines have been changed, so will have to see if they used Imperial or metric. Also do they go straight from the standard hard lines into the cylinders, or to the small length of hard pipe from the cylinder to the flexy??

Totally agree with it tbh, if you're towing a trailer then chances are it's used regularly, like a builders trailer etc. Most Caravans are parked up for 10-11 months a year, in storage, then washed and packed to the rafters then driven in an totally inadequate car, and then driven by a driver who is incompetent, and then carnage begins!! This isn't all caravanners but is the vast majority. I drive Artics and the amount of badly towed caravans I see is staggering, wheels coming off, snaking and jack knifed, and they take their family in there!! The trailers I tow all have MOT tests, and have regular servicing, yeah they are big and carry a LOT of weight, but same should apply to Caravans.

Cheers buddy no horror stories then?? I'll be collecting all the new cylinders next week, so master cylinder (brake and clutch), shoes, brake cylinders, my springs look ok, and adjusters work, new rear drums (fronts I can't get from my local Bearmach), and take it from there.

How did you find the brakes?? Have been a told a few horror stories, but all by people who havent done it they just think it will be bad.

Removed the other side, now I can say 100% that there is another diff gone lol. The rear was blown, and the front is too, as I can feel bits of planetary gears inside . Lucky I bought 2 Disco diffs , and I now have a spare set of front 10 spline shafts, and a set of front 10x24 spline shafts too. Blood puss and everything

Well bit more progress, I know that the drivers shaft is ok. I did trial fit the 11 inch backing plate and 88 stub axle and its straight on, no worries

Got this little lot left over. 24 spline outers, 10 spline inners, and swivel housings.

Worth bleeding though, as they can still need it. Take it yours has a lift pump? Then I used to use a new disposable filter to suck on that will draw the fuel up, and the filter stops your mouth tasting petrol. Kink the pipe and refit trying not to lose any petrol or add air. This should allow it to fire, as long as you use the pipe nearest the carb. If its an electric pump, remove the pipe nearest the carb/injection system and place in a jam jar, then turn on ignition and it should spurt until there is a steady flow. Switch off when steady and quickly fit pipe back tight, that should allow it to run. Failing these above there could be an air leak/fuel leak, or the pump/lift has failed.

My parts catalogue thing-a-ma-bob has listed 2 masters for the V8/2.6 My Landy is single line also, so don't really want to replumb.

Yep I bought everything off the same vehicle, removed them myself. The Master and servo is single line anyways, and is also being stripped down and rebuilt. Pic from when I trial fitted it.

Right back to the progress, I have now removed the brakes from the hubs and shafts. Stripped them down and thats how they have been left. Reading your comments above, what Master cylinder should I go for with this setup?? As I was planning on keeping everything matched, so a 109 Master cylinder for the single line brake system. Would this be ok, or would the 88 one be better from experience?? Pics from Today. Swivels, one is really good, and one has some slight rust/pitting but both were full of oil. Drums. Size difference is nice, fronts on left, rears on right.

Cheers buddy, I had no idea there was a change of part number. I found the LR Fastners site but they only take cheques. If I was gonna use a sealant they Hylomar Blue, or Caraflex, as both are bedding sealants that don't fully cure. And tbh if I can I'd rather not bodge the job, as this Landy has suffered a LOT form that, and having to put right the previous owners mistakes, or lack of care is annoying.

I'm after the pedal box seals for the clutch and brake pedals, I have removed them from my bulkhead for refurb and rebuilding. But come refitting I cannot find anywhere that does the seal. Barring making some from Flexoid Gasket paper/card, I am at a loss

Cheers for that, will chamfer the leading edges. I was thinking that too about the Servo, that if they are a bit too much then I can remove the vacuum hose lol. But I still think that they should be fine, and I'll just have to get used to it.

I have never owned a non modified vehicle, all above board and certified. I have never known an insurance company ask for an engineers report when upgrading brake parts using Genuine Manufacturer parts. They have on engine replacements and conversions, and for fitting non "OEM" parts, by OEM I mean something NOT from the say Land Rover series parts bin. And even then all they wanted to see was they worked, didn't foul anything, and I had used good pipes etc, or with engines checked everything matched and the mounts were up to scratch. With the usual chassis inspections in key areas. That's my thinking too, and as I've never driven her, I have nothing for comparison so I'll just get used to how she is. Personally would rather brakes be a bit ott, than lacking if push comes to shove!!