red-dragon

Hi all Having recently purchased a 2008 L322 range rover, I know relatively little about how the TPMS works and hoping you can help me debug this issue! When I first purchased the vehicle, the dash readout said "check spare tyre pressure" immediately on startup. After 50 miles or so over a couple of journeys, it then did the same on startup, but then immediately followed by "check all tyre pressures". I had a flat on the rear right tyre. I then put a new set of tyres on the vehicle, at the correct tyre pressures, and in doing so realised there was just a standard valve stem in the spare wheel. This was then fitted with a properly coded TPMS sensor before being stowed in the boot compartment. On the next startup, the flat tyre light illuminated and said "check spare tyre pressure" but then went out after 2 mins. I assumed this meant it had picked up the new sensor and all was well. However, on the next two journeys it did the same thing. Although the light went out fairly quickly, surely it should only have to acknowledge the new sensor once? Unfortunately now however on the latest journey today, the flat tyre light has not extinguished and instead says "check all tyre pressures"! To recap: All wheels have TPMS sensor stems (4x old/pre-existing ones in the road wheels, 1x new in the spare wheel) All set to correct specification tyre pressures Brand new tyres on all wheels inc spare. Flat tyre warning light illuminated and message on startup is now "check all tyre pressures" Be very grateful for advice on how I can solve this! My gut instinct was just replace all of the TPMS sensors for new but they are £50 each so it's quite an expensive process of elimination that I am well aware may not be the source of the problem! Cheers in advance for suggestions...

Have the Holley 4 barrel 650 on my v8. It works brilliantly most of the time. As others have said, once set up it is nice and reliable. However, when descending at a very steep angle and not applying any throttle (or worse - braking), it will rich-cut and is a nightmare to get the engine started again (if even possible) until you get level. Not ideal when you are in that situation. Hard to remedy it by going WOT (add air to compensate for the extra fuel) maintain control, and do brakes/ clutch/ handbrake at the same time unless you are some sort of offroading octopus. I am looking at some options to stop this from happening. The issue everyone is talking about with regards carb operation at severe angles is usually to do with vents/ bowls overflowing. On the holley 650 the main culprit appears to be the brass overflow tubes that extend upward. At certain angles fuel can flow out of these and into the venturi - causing overfueling (flooding). I suspect a possible solution is that these can be extended and routed within the larger air intake pipe, to stop fuel spilling in the fashion described. However there could be other internals that cause flows to happen at angles that wouldn't be there in what Holley consider "normal" operating angles. I would also be keen to listen to anyone else's advice on the matter, as I plan to keep my carb set up- but I would like to get it functioning as well at extreme angles as it does on a level. There must be a way!!! As for Edelbrock v Holley - not much in it, but I chose Holley for what felt like a better quality and value balance. As far as I understand it both suffer from the angle issue we are discussing, and as another poster pointed out the Edelbrock has side slung floats whereas the Holley has front and back slung floats. One assumes therefore if you are on a big side angle that is when the Edelbrock would be exhibiting similar issues to what I have described above. On reflection, that would probably be a less big deal compared to "nose down" rich cuts ... So maybe there is your answer!?

That's useful, cheers. Just wondered if there was anything Rover V8 specific I should bear in mind. Obviously Piper will recommend using their tappets, but planning to use genuine LR oem hydraulic tappets (soaked in oil prior to installation). Any thoughts on this? Engine fun to come...

Evening all, I'm about to replace the cam in my rover v8 powered 90. With regards run-in procedure, what would you recommend? Does 2000rpm for 20 mins sound about right, straight away after start up? Just adjust the throttle idle screw on my carb to match that engine speed, and leave it running there? If it makes a difference, I am running a high torque output "Stump Puller" cam by Piper.

Done. Well done David. I don't take the pessimistic view it will all be over in a matter of time, but green lanes really are under threat and I applaud the efforts of those who are prepared and able to invest time fighting the well funded and quite frankly arrogant groups like the Ramblers to maintain access to the countryside for all user groups. The proportionality argument really is key as I mentioned in my note within the survey:

How do you mean springs in the wrong place? I rebuilt the drums up from scratch a while ago, and it was some time before that when the old kit was removed (no photos were taken sadly!) What should it look like - I can always take the casing off and inspect Are you suggesting that the drums are pulling tight sooner than they are meant to, hence causing over-braking on the rear before the fronts get a chance to bite?

Hi Mickey I did also suspect the g-valve.... although it is such a simple device I was sceptical of my own suspicion of it! Will investigate.

Hi all, Arranging a green laning trip to Wales for this summer - wondered if anyone has any suggestions of the best lanes to drive in both Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia? Any lists of lanes or maps that anyone has they would be willing to share (please do PM if you prefer), or particularly cracking ones that you would recommend not missing out on! We are planning quite a big trip so have plenty of time to drive lots of good lanes responsibly and take in the Welsh countryside! Does anyone know what the status is of the Gap Road and Sarn Helen in the Brecon Beacons and if it is open still, and if so when? We are a sensible group that only like to drive these things when you are allowed to! Many thanks in advance for any info anyone is able to share

To update, no joy with this. Goodness knows where the electricity is leaking out! I'm putting in the relay based system a la Mike this weekend which should not only fix my issue but also be a better long term solution for the lights and reduce the likelihood of switch failure etc in future. Wiring fun on the way

Could the new shoes in the rear drums be biting early due to some kind of calibration not being quite right? Any drum brake experts out there, your advice appreciated!! Cheers

Earths are solid behind both headlights and connections good The plug for the resistor is there but has nothing plugged into it. Thanks for the link Mike, I'm planning on doing your conversion at some stage but I'm keen to get the headlamps working in the meantime if I can!! Will tear the headlights apart this week and check the bulb holders....

Thanks for that Mike. I think all I can confirm is that the jumper wire is in the correct position, basically circumventing the pink lucas relay that would have been there originally. So dim/dip unit is not the issue here. That has been bypassed correctly. Somehow however I am still getting a very low voltage positive feed into either dipped beam bulb even when the relevant fuse is not in place, but only when I switch the dip beam switch on. And why this then ends up in giving the correct full voltage to the other side's dipped beam bulb when one side has its fuse removed? Dip beam switch off - nothing Dip beam switch on, both fuses in place - dim dip beam bulbs on both sides Dip beam switch on, LH fuse removed, RH fuse remains - very dim LH dip beam bulb, full power RH dip beam bulb Dip beam switch on, LH fuse remains, RH fuse removed - full power LH dip beam bulb, very dim RH dip beam bulb Dip beam switch on, LH fuse removed, RH fuse removed - nothing I am beginning to wonder what on earth is going on, pun intended!!

Hopefully the above pics illustrate the strange relay socket unit and the jumper wire. As you can see the brown and black wires aren't connected to anything, I assume they were power for the original relay? Below is a pic showing the very dim glow I get from a dipped beam bulb when the dip beam switch is activated, even when its fuse is pulled out!

Thanks for the replies gents. I've done some more diagnosis today and have a bit more info that will hopefully help get nearer to the solution! Firstly, the unit I assumed to be the dim dip connector doesn't look like the one above. It looks like a red relay connector marked Rists. See photo. If I remove the jumper wire that you can see, I get no headlights main or dip at all. Secondly, leaving the jumper wire in place, I have now discovered that if I pull out the fuse for the left dipped beam, then the left dipped beam bulb actually still comes on when the switch is activated (albeit REALLY faint) but the right dip beam now works at correct full power! Similarly, if I leave the left dipped beam fuse in place, but pull the right dipped beam fuse instead, I get an uber faint right dipped beam but a really nice full power left dipped beam. Main beams are still working fine and are unaffected by these shenanigans. Any clues??? I am really scratching my head here! Cheers in advance

Yes no dim dip fitted. The loom I picked up has the socket for it but several wires jumping over the connections to effectively bypass it. I checked the wiring against the manual and it is correct. So the dim dip unit should be correctly bypassed. I get the same behaviour from the lights with both the engine running and when the ignition is on but engine not running. I did also wonder about a poor earth but can't seem to find anything. Will continue the hunt along the loom on all corners and see if I can find a loose one. Any other solutions or ideas gratefully received as I am not enjoying being limited to daytime only driving! Cheers

Have you considered something like a mk1 Freelander? A good compromise if you are after something with a green oval but has more car-like driving characteristics (and a bit more manageable for a learner/new driver)!

Hi all, my 90 has rear drums and disc fronts. On applying full brakes, I'm finding that the rear drums lock up first. It has almost entirely new braking system all round. Is this likely a bias valve issue - any ideas on what route to take to fix this?

A while ago I re wired using a 200tdi new loom, and was having some problems with dip beam headlights. Finally got around to fitting new switch gear on the steering column which I was hoping would fix the problem but no. Still strange goings-on with the lights.... Switch position - behaviour: Off- all off, good! Stage 1 (Sidelights) - sidelights, all good! Stage 2 (Dip beam) - dip beam on, but very dim Stage 2 + Stalk on (main beam) - main beam, all good! Further information - if I remove the positive wire to main beam filament on each of the headlight bulbs and flick the switch&stalk to the main beam position, I still get a faint glow from the dip beam filament on each bulb (even dimmer than when on dip beam setting) - strange as I thought only the dip filament or the main filament should be on at any one time. I do not have the dreaded "dim dip" unit fitted so that isn't the root of the problem here, it is bypassed as 'standard' on the loom. There is no resistor on the wing etc either. I have a genuine dim dip all on its own! I know it's not an earthing issue as the main/dip share the same earth and it is solid. As explained above main beam is nice and bright. It looks like some kind of strange back feed going on through the circuits - does anyone have any helpful ideas or come across something similar? Cheers all

Td5 every time for sensible day to day use. Nothing beats a v8 for fun though and as Nigel says it provides a lovely soundtrack! Both engines are fantastic as stock. Never run lpg myself.

Only 579 original factory fitted V8 90s still on the road.. does that sound right? Aware they are becoming a rare beast however was quite surprised to read this, does anyone know differently or if this data is accurate? I guess most of the original 3.5s have rotted away by now and the Americans have a healthy appetite for importing the later V8 anniversary vehicles. Looking at the graphs it appears the trend on both has rapidly accelerated in recent years, leaving remaining UK stocks looking rather depleted! https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q=Land+rover+90+v8

Cheers, this looks perfect... £465 all in http://www.lasalle-trim.co.uk/productsbymodel/defender90

Have been considering getting these easy swap in extra large mirrors recently, they would probably be even more susceptible to the 'mirror flop' if you have mirror extenders attached, but might negate the need for the towing mirrors to some degree? Has anyone ever used these: http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/defender-xl-mirror-head.html

Evening all, Wondered if anyone has ever seen for sale/available a full length headlining for a 90 that does NOT have the cut outs for the alpine windows? My truck was originally a hard top/van, but has been converted to into a station wagon by adding side windows. However, the roof is the original van hard top so no alpine windows. Ideally I'd like to rip out the front-only headlining and instead install the full length county spec style headlining that goes all the way to the back of the vehicle, but everything I can see for sale has the alpine window cut outs, which of course I don't have. Not keen on putting the alpine windows in either as I have heard stories they leak over time... and I don't need them anyhow. I considered just putting some material where the cutouts are to finish it off but that won't look as neat as a headlining that doesn't have them altogether. Any ideas?