reubsrover
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Posts
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Appreciate your advice mate...especially when I'm wrong. I had read this but when doing a trial fit with engine in situ it didn't look like there enough room when I was holding the wing. I didn't spend much time checking though as I had already decided to take the turbo off. As I said good to know though as eventually I will add it back on.
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Thanks CwazyWabbit sounds fine then...now for another question Does anybody know the measurements of a 200TDi viscous coupling and fan. I'm hoping to fit one to my engine as my radiator has already been moved to sit on top of the now cutaway crossmember (see pics from earlier post). Is it going to fit? Thanks for the valuable assistance chaps.
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Thanks Nick, should I be worried about dust entering this...i.e. should I connect it to my air filter somehow?
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Read...read and re-read as many articles, write-ups and reports on forums I could find. I will likely fit the turbo at a later date in a year or ten depending on the performance of the engine but as it stands now the main reason for leaving it off was for ease of fitting. Without the turbo means I can use the Disco exhaust manifold with no need to clock the turbo (remember I'm an amateur) and I can use the series radiator and have no need for an inter-cooler. This means no welding which means no chassis modifications are needed. Over here (at least in Victoria) as long as I don't touch the chassis and am installing an engine from a similar model vehicle I don't need an expensive and annoying engineers certificate. So in the end I'm taking the turbo off and using the vehicle as designed.
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Hi Nick, don't worry I have been, it's an invaluable resource and I've spent many hours reading up on your work. Thanks very much for the effort you put into that blog, especially the wiring up of the TDi conversion. I will most likely put one return line in (my second tank doesn't have a second pickup port) and connect the breather pipes as an over flow system in case I accidentally use the tank without the return line first. Later on if I start using veg oil I will use the tank with the return line as diesel mixing in with the veg oil shouldn't be an issue. Seems to be the sensible way to do things, thanks for your advice. Yes mate, got that definition from Nick's great blog as well
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Well I already introduced myself briefly but it was hidden away in a thread so I'll say hi again from Australia. Sometimes I get jealous of all the Land Rover experts/shops/manufacturers/etc. you have over there and think I should go on a road trip and complete the build in England wouldn't have to wait for shipping then...but then I remember that there's no space to drive them over there unless you have the floats out the side mod Anyway so as I wait for new wiring and a few other parts to come from the motherland so I can finally complete the transformation of my SIII I have a few questions. I'm currently doing a 200Di conversion on what was firstly a Diesel from factory then previously a Holden 186 straight six powered Landy (a common conversion over here). My two questions for now (more to come) are turbo boost? What do I do with the boost control line from the turbo to the fuel pump. I assume I can just blank it off with a bolt? Will it need a copper washer on it? And the fan...The previous conversion involved chopping the front chassis cross member and relocating the radiator to sit on top of the chopped and modified chassis rail. This has moved the radiator roughly a radiator's width forward. So will it fit now? I measured approx 10-12 cm from radiator to water pump stud. Also does anyone know the diameter of the fan? A couple of pic to illustrate. Thanks for your help
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Thanks...hmm battery and exhaust are last on the list as I cannot weld to save myself. I was hoping although I haven't even done any measuring, to have a custom tray made up to fit under the middle seat and dropping down at the rear of the gearbox where your overdrive our PTO goes out in that general area anyway. Failing that I have seen a couple of trays for a dual battery setup welded to the rear of the chassis filling in space in the rear of the wheel arches . Not the best option with a gal chassis and nice tub. I don't have a gal chassis and my tub has a million holes with bolts through it due to a dodgy repair job.
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Mine was doing a similar thing. Pulled the sender out and it was not lined up properly so as the float was pushed up when filling with fuel it would catch on the side of the tank and read at about a third of a tank, then like yours it would start reading again as the tank emptied. This was my fault though as I hadn't put the sender in straight after fiddling with things. Might be worth checking on yours but I haven't had mine back in running order since I 'rectified' this problem so not completely sure I've fixed it.
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Well there's no point me starting a new post with my questions on this exact topic so I'll introduce myself here and ask away. I'm from the far off land of Australia and am venturing into new forums as I could well be the first to do a 200Di conversion over here. At least I haven't heard of anyone else who has done one. I too am in the middle of working out how to plumb the fuel system with duel tanks. My only suggestion that I can bring to the table is to link the breathers as an over flow as one or two of the chaps over her have done on various conversions. Can anyone point out and flaws in this solution? This is what I was leaning towards combined with a solenoid valve. Then I came up with the bright idea of simply returning the return line to the filter which already has a second 'in' line blocked off. Thought I should research a little first and was led by google to this excellent discussion. Now to overcome the problem of air in the lines. I'd like to set up in the not too distant future to run on SVO in one tank and thus this option for the return line is appealing. So with the knowledge that everything will be near new (reconditioned engine, new fuel lines/filter etc.) am I really that liekly to run into difficulties with air in the lines?
