dbartle9

Thank you both, that's exactly the sort of info I was after. Pretty sure I've used the parts manual from retroanaconda's site before (although clearly I forgot about it), but that online microcat type site is something new to me! Dave

So I'm about to embark on a long overdue reassembly of body parts on my 85 Ninety, and despite removing all the fixings etc. and bagging/labelling them all I'm a little bit unsure on how some bits go together (it has been about 5 years since I took it apart!). What is the most useful resource to help with this? I'm thinking something with exploded diagrams? Never left it long enough to forget how it goes together in the past, but two kids and three house moves have happened since I took it off the road for a 'quick' engine swap ? Thanks Dave

Bazza, You'll probably get a better answer on http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/ but I did a similar thing last year on a Range Rover Sport which is pretty much the same. I managed to deform the shield into the pump which resulted in lots of vibrations when the pump was running. From memory the airlines looked quite exposed toward the back of the pump, so you may have been unlucky enough to squash or pierce the line. Dave

Thanks for all the replies... They came off a 1986 ninety that was being broken up so they've had their fair share of exposure to the elements! Think I'll go for the re-galvanising route - anyone know of a reputable place in the West Midlands? Dave

Pictures as requested. This is probably the worst bit out of all of them. Surprised I didn't have galv cappings already - is on a 1985 Ninety with original galvanised bumper and roof rails. Dave

Just unpacked my 'new to me' galvanised tub cappings and some sections appear to have a coating of surface rust. I must admit I've not really dabbled in galvanised stuff before, but I was under the impression that it was suppose to stop the steel corroding? If I take the surface rust off with wire wool etc. is it going to come back? I was planning on keeping it all bare, but now thinking I may have to paint them. They're still a whole lot better than the Swiss cheese ones I've taken off though... Dave

I went through two cable kits before resorting to a full genuine assembly (at non genuine price from eBay). To be fair the kits seemed Ok at first, but didn't last longer than week or so each. In future I will just go for the replacement assembly - my time is worth more to me than the cost save. Dave

Yep that was the only issue I had with that kit, but spoke to Paul and he confirmed that they could do XS for an extra £300. I'd almost given up on getting XS seats for reasonable money, but had a lucky win on eBay. I'll probably have mine under seat covers for 6 months if the year, so was struggling to justify the extra cost. Dave

I'll be watching the replies on this one - I started off with the Td5 centre silencer on mine, but swapped it out for a straight replacement pretty quickly as it wasn't 'V8' enough. Having lived with it for a while now it's a bit too boomy for regular use and really does need something in between. Dave

Can't believe I'd forgotten about the defender2 threads on this - it was killer90's post that started me off with the tub mods! I too got the puma tub panels from Pete (measures2931 on eBay), but if I were to do it again I'd just get the full kit from Foley's: http://foleysv.com/wordpress/wp-content/plugins/WP_Product_Display/single_product.php?id=23 It's taken me ages to get all the bits together, and I'm pretty close to their kit cost now. Dave

Very easy to have it 180deg out (been there, done that!) double check the timing. Dave

Thanks Western, but I'm more concerned with being in the correct proximity to the seat belts which are fixed to the side window panels, hence the request for a measurement. Dave

I've finally managed to buy some genuine forward facing rear seats to fit into my Ninety to go with the tub modification panels I fitted last year, but I've just realised I have no idea where they actually go! Does anybody have any measurement data on where the holes for the brackets are located? Ideally a measurement of a factory fitted seat bracket location from a decent reference point would be enough to get going on, but if anybody has retrofitted themselves and happens to have all hole locations that would be great. Cheers, Dave

Give these guys a call http://www.remotekey.co.uk/ Helped me out a few years ago when our one and only fob broke leaving the car stuck on a petrol station forecourt. They can send you a self programmable replacement fob.

I'm pretty sure it is a VDO gauge from the VDO Vision range. I brought a temp gauge and it matches the original Td5 gauges perfectly (apart from the needle colour). Dave

Mine was a factory V8 too, and I had to fettle the cross member, but I've not had to shorten anything on the Td5 pipes? Tailpipe sits in the normal Td5 position - might be due to dubious build tolerances, but I didn't think they were quite that variable...

I've got the same as mikec on my v8 auto - disco manifolds and Y piece into Td5 centre and rear. I had to fit the tubular cross member from the disco too, and have since fitted a mid box replacement to the centre as it was too quiet! Total cost was just over £100 for new take-off Td5 full system (not all of it used though) plus mid box replacement, and I had the disco bits lying around. Really happy with the fit, and looks good too.

Got my wheel box modification via eBay from a guy recommended by a couple of other people that have done the same. Seller ID is measures2931. Really happy with them - he's put a lot of thought into it with double skinned sections where appropriate etc. and we're really easy to fit. I'd considered fabricating my own, but these were ideal. Dave

Thanks for the info Boris but Cirencester is about 50 miles away from me, and not in the direction I'm heading on Sunday either. Might have to remember that the next time I'm heading South though! Dave

Didn't actually know what they were called, but I do still have 4 choker strap bits (had taken them off my old straps just before they went missing). Looks like great value for money, but due to needing them by Sunday I suspect a trip to machine mart is imminent. Thanks for the replies so far. If anyone knows of any other national type shops that might have a branch near me then I'd be glad to hear it. Thanks Dave

Hopefully not too off-topic (will be used with the ninety) but can anyone recommend where to buy some decent ratchet straps for securing things on trailers etc. The set I've been using for about the last ten years went missing a while back, and I need to get some replacements before Sunday. I use them for anything upto and including securing Landrovers onto trailers, so they need to be at least of the 50mm width variety and ideally 6m long as a minimum. Had a quick look around Halfords on my way home and thought it was all a bit too flimsy looking. Thanks Dave

I would try changing just the filter first. I know of a couple of Defenders that had the same issue and both had replacement pumps fitted that didn't fix it. New filters and original pumps refitted fixed the issue, and at least one of them is still on the original pump at least three years later, so definitely nothing wrong with it! Dave

They're to meet the Japanese market visibility requirement. All vehicles sold in Japan have to allow the driver to see a 1m high pole (representing a child ) across the front and opposite side to the driver. Obviously this affects 4x4s more than cars, as a bonnet height lower than 1m means the pole can be seen without any additional aids. Most OEMs (including land rover) use cameras to meet this legal requirement now. Dave

Thanks for the replies. Reason for getting the VDO gauge and sender is to have actual temperature in deg C shown - I like to see how/when the engine temp rises. Dave

Hi all, I'm putting together the last couple of bits on my 3.9 V8 Defender installation, and I'm struggling to identify the gauge temperature sender thread. Searching the forum found plenty for 300 Tdi etc, but not much for V8's. I've fitted a Td5 dash already, and I'm planning to buy a VDO Vision temperature gauge and matched sender like this: http://www.merlinmot...oduct_info.html Available sender threads are 1/2 NPT, 1/4 NPT, 1/8 NPT, 5/8 UNF, M10x1 and M15x1.5. Anyone have any idea which one I need? Engine is a serpentine from a 1995 Disco if it makes any difference. Thanks, Dave