Jyodaiam

Many thanks again Western.

Thanks for the replies, have learnt plenty. Could I just ask what the resistor's job is under the drivers wing? What state should it be in and how often do they need replacing? And finally is it the dim dip resistor (G100) on the diagrams? Many thanks in advance.

P.s. Thanks Western for the images.

Before I changed the switch he had taken the end of the blue wire from the dim dip relay and spliced it onto the blue wire attached to the light switch. Am puzzled now should I just place it back into the dim dip relay and then see if the original fault that he bodged appears again. You said Western that the dim dip relay is not a good design and not needed anymore to comply; should I be thinking about taking the relay out altogether or would create another problem for my steep learning curve.

Many thanks Western. Traced the black wire to the header joint. The brown/green is still in its original position in the relay with white and red/orange. Problem still lies with the loose blue that came off the switch. Any further thoughts?

Ok that's done, connected the blue / red. The blue is still loose after disconnecting the original splice and the black came loose. Do I connect them back to relay? (the relay I think could do with being replaced while I'm at it?)

Thanks Western. So if I get rid out of the relay do I then connect the red / orange to black; white to blue not sure about brown / green or am I completely wrong?? (Steep learning curve)

Any reason why he would of been avoiding the DIM DIP relay?

Just checked diagrams too and they match. Should I just put all wires correctly back into DIM DIP relay as per diagram? Relay has cut ends still in place such a blue and red's which have been cut and spliced avoiding relay.

A bodge. He burnt rubber and soldered wire to wire.

Finally got to fixing the lights. I have started by replacing side/main light switch. There is a black wire spliced to the blue wire on the light switch which runs off to and is spliced directly to the blue wire which entered the relay DIM-DIP (R126). What is the reason for the splice? What do I need to do to correct it? Hope it makes sense. ? I am using the defender wiring diagram as guidance.

Thanks for the replies. Defender 110 sw 1995, but previous owner swapped onto a gal chassis. If the fuse failed due to high resistance would this indicate corrosion on fuse board also? There are some wiring parts that I don't recognise behind main box including a 'pull switch'; my previous landy had standard wiring - never any trouble same model and year (apart from a bad earth and the chassis ?).

Many thanks again. Just ordered the Haynes electrical handbook looks like I've a lot to learn.

Great I'll have a look. Didn't know where to start ... on a steep learning curve ? why would this cause the fuse to melt?

Just bought a multimeter just reading up Beam does come on but only if I were to flash, won't stay on. Do you know why a fuse would melt?