Jyodaiam

Many thanks again Western.

Thanks for the replies, have learnt plenty. Could I just ask what the resistor's job is under the drivers wing? What state should it be in and how often do they need replacing? And finally is it the dim dip resistor (G100) on the diagrams? Many thanks in advance.

P.s. Thanks Western for the images.

Before I changed the switch he had taken the end of the blue wire from the dim dip relay and spliced it onto the blue wire attached to the light switch. Am puzzled now should I just place it back into the dim dip relay and then see if the original fault that he bodged appears again. You said Western that the dim dip relay is not a good design and not needed anymore to comply; should I be thinking about taking the relay out altogether or would create another problem for my steep learning curve.

Many thanks Western. Traced the black wire to the header joint. The brown/green is still in its original position in the relay with white and red/orange. Problem still lies with the loose blue that came off the switch. Any further thoughts?

Ok that's done, connected the blue / red. The blue is still loose after disconnecting the original splice and the black came loose. Do I connect them back to relay? (the relay I think could do with being replaced while I'm at it?)

Thanks Western. So if I get rid out of the relay do I then connect the red / orange to black; white to blue not sure about brown / green or am I completely wrong?? (Steep learning curve)

Any reason why he would of been avoiding the DIM DIP relay?

Just checked diagrams too and they match. Should I just put all wires correctly back into DIM DIP relay as per diagram? Relay has cut ends still in place such a blue and red's which have been cut and spliced avoiding relay.

A bodge. He burnt rubber and soldered wire to wire.

Finally got to fixing the lights. I have started by replacing side/main light switch. There is a black wire spliced to the blue wire on the light switch which runs off to and is spliced directly to the blue wire which entered the relay DIM-DIP (R126). What is the reason for the splice? What do I need to do to correct it? Hope it makes sense. ? I am using the defender wiring diagram as guidance.

Thanks for the replies. Defender 110 sw 1995, but previous owner swapped onto a gal chassis. If the fuse failed due to high resistance would this indicate corrosion on fuse board also? There are some wiring parts that I don't recognise behind main box including a 'pull switch'; my previous landy had standard wiring - never any trouble same model and year (apart from a bad earth and the chassis ?).

Many thanks again. Just ordered the Haynes electrical handbook looks like I've a lot to learn.

Great I'll have a look. Didn't know where to start ... on a steep learning curve ? why would this cause the fuse to melt?

Just bought a multimeter just reading up Beam does come on but only if I were to flash, won't stay on. Do you know why a fuse would melt?

Last night (sods law) my headlights wouldn't work. I first checked the fuses and the right headlight was part melted so I replaced it; but still no headlight but sidelights ok. Am a bit stuck as electrics aren't my strong point and I'm doing a late shift tomorrow night.

It's been lifted but not excessive, I'm unsure how high (how do ya check?). When I bought it I changed my tyres over (ones I took off were thinner but don't have specific size. Drives well just like previous one same spec as this one now).

I have started to get steering wobble/vibrations on my defender 110 300 / Goodrich 265 75 16 when I reached 50mph so I had the tracking checked and changed the steering dampner. The wobble now starts at 40mph so I had the front wheels balanced and still the wobble returned. I then inflated the tyres to 40 on all 4 this was from 35 on all 4. The wobble now starts from 30mph and the wobble/vibrations are stronger. Any thoughts please.

Was is the difference in drive and running between the defender and discovery box?

Thanks for the advice. The unit i got a quote for was for a reconditioned. Trouble was it was for a discovery box and I'm unsure what needs to be done for it to fit. Do you know how the defender and discovery r380's differ?

£400 and £200 for fitting 6mth warranty

Mmm. We travel from spring to the end of summer on the roads and then I'm back in Yorkshire for the rest working on the moors, so a bit of both usage wise. However the travelling costs more fuel so a suitable gear box would benefit my pocket more in the long run. How does this fit with the discovery box? Is it costly to fit? Gearboxes haven't needed my attention as yet so a bit to learn, but we never stop learning. As much advice as I can get, as this landy is staying with me for a long time and want to get it right now at the start. Many thanks

I have recently bought a 110 defender 1995 after my old one (identical year and body) started to need more welding on the chassis. Having driven it in now the gear box needs attention: Can't change down from 5th into 4th; I have to go into 3rd then into 5th Can't engage the transfer box; I could when I test drove it The gearbox is now starting to make wizzing noise I visited a local garage who specialise in gearboxes and he had a discovery gear/transfer box same year on the shelves already to go. Could I ask for advise on replacing the gear/transfer box given that it is from a discovery (I believe it is a r380); I have been told that they are better runners on the road but a bit high for off road??? Many thanks

Cheers. Must of been that can't think of anything else getting. Thanks again

It is, many thanks