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garrycol last won the day on September 28 2018

garrycol had the most liked content!

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About garrycol

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    Canberra AUSTRALIA

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  1. I think (but not certain) that you need to change the camshaft - as the cam shaft does not drive for the dizzy it is slightly shorter - but as I said not sure so check.
  2. I am with Snagger - be wary of who you go with - in Australia all suppliers from the UK have a poor reputation as the quality of canvas used in the UK is poor and does not stand up to our high UV levels but may not be such an issue in the UK where the sun no shines. Our local canvas has a much higher UV rating. However - while we know Exmoor use poor quality canvas I would take the advice of other UK suppliers that do provide a quality product. The Aussie Army tilt on my 101 was bought used 10 years ago and is still on the vehicle but needs replacement. I have a new tilt supplied by the original makers of the tilts from the UK so it will be interesting to see how it lasts compared to my old one. Garry
  3. The R380 is considered marginal behind a Thor 4.6 V8, but the LT95 and 4.6 in my 101 handles its torque without any issues. Unless you have deep pockets and know someone who can get a TDV8 to run in isolation away from a body ECU of a RRS then this engine would not really be an option.
  4. Modern oils can corrode the bronze components of the gearbox - the correct engine oil works well and the shift is fine - stay with it. I cannot help with the other questions - my LT95 just works fine. I lock the CDL when offroad and unlock it on the hard stuff - not sure what you mean spin oil out. Garry
  5. I used to get up to 70mph in my 56 series 1 with a Holden 161, the valves were bouncing as that engine does not like to rev as the LR 2 litre does but the issue was that at 68mph the death wobbles in the front wheels would settle in. Garry
  6. But if you disconnect them then you will just get the same codes and any following cascading codes.
  7. Definitely do the above - also be aware that when you get a primary fault you will/may get secondary fault as a direct result of the primary fault - sometimes it is obvious what is going on sometimes not - I generally ignore communication faults if there are other major faults exist. Also be aware that when a fault is fixed it may still continue to display until after one or two starts. Eg - I had alternator faults where everything lights up - fixed the alternator, cleared faults with my FCR and restarted - some faults continued until two starts. On your list I would look at the IAT and MAF faults first, then see what remains - the others may be important but who knows. Garry
  8. 4.0 pistons will raise the compression ratio depending on what you are starting off with - you need to change out the 4.0 gudgeon pins for the 4.6 gudgeon pins as the 4.6 pins have thicker walls.
  9. Ok to put you out of your misery (but I dont know why the OP would ask his question on a UK forum). The Holden 130 to 202 cubic inch engines are a range of 6 cylinder car (tractor) engines fitted to Holden vehicles from the late 40s to the mid 80s. There are variants (Grey (first types) red (most Common) and later Blue and Black - really all were developments of each other. Google them for the detail. The red engines in particular the 161 and the 186 were a standard conversion for Landrovers in Australia in the late 60s to 80s. Landrover engines were very expensive to repair and fitting the Holden 6 became a standard much cheaper conversion - offering a bit more power but not much more in the way of road speed because of the standard gearing. Kits were available to so the conversion and authorities gave class engineering approval for the conversion. I got my series 1 86 in 1977 and it still had its 2 litre engine that was of questionable reliability so in 1979 changed it to a Holden 161 cubic inch 6 cylinder which I ran for the next 6 years as an everyday driver with no real issues. The Holden 6 could not rev as well as the Rover engine hence it did not have a higher top speed but the Holden had more torque and could pull better through the gears. The 186 engine was considered the sweetest engine of the lot - it seemed more balanced, revved easier and seemed more relaxed. The 202 being a larger engine had more power but seemed to work harder to produce what it had. For the OP - if the issue is just tappets and valves etc then stay with the 186 but if a bottom end rebuild as required it will obvious cost - if the 202 is ready to go straight in then but it in but only on the basis there is little extra cost involved - it will replace the 186 no issues. Garry
  10. In would not quite agree with that view - the first Kia Carnival was fitted with this engine and in Australia there is not one of these vehicles left on the road - all died due to engine failure.
  11. There is nothing wrong with HIDs - Landrover have been fitting them as OEM equipment since the early 2000s and they work fine - I have converted the halogens in my RRS to HIDs and they work great. However technology has moved on and certainly for low beam I would look at LEDs - LEDs are not quite there yet for Hi Beam but good elsewhere where you do not want distance.
  12. Doesn't look like a 101 canvas - looks too short, there should be straps all along the seem above the windows to allow the sides to be rolled up and the tie down ropes go on the inside of the top not the bottom. As far as the windows go, originally there were no side windows in the main sides of the canvas but there is a small window at the front on the passenger side to allow the driver to see over his shoulder when turning. While no windows in the side as original, they can be fitted. Here is a pic of my 101 with its original canvas - note the buckles along the top seam (the straps are on the inside), the lower tie downs on the inside of the canvas, not the outside like yours, also note the small window at the front (on a LHD vehicle the small window is on the opposite side). Also - you can see the sewing for your windows so it looks as it it is on your trailer inside out. Garry
  13. If the starter motor turns but no drive is getting to the flywheel then it may very well be the bendix - before failing completely they sometimes grip, sometimes not and then then engine will not turn over - but then cheap aftermarket starters are available on line for far less than the cost of buying a new bendix and getting it professionally fitted.
  14. There is a small clutch type mechanism in the starter that can slip - this sounds like what you have - it slips and next time it bites and the engine turns over. Mine failed a while back and I just replaced the part This is a pic of a 3.5 starter and the bit is RTC834. Later starter like yours also have this.
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