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Everything posted by garrycol

  1. Thanks for that - the numbers are the opposite way round on each of the gauges and positioned differently but should work fine.
  2. Not quite - it is a light sensor. It is there to compensate for how the human body feels temp - that is the body feels hotter when it is bright and colder when dull. So this sensor pushes the climate control output temp down a degree or two over what is set when it is a bright and sunny day (something you don't get in the UK) and when it is dull and cold (as normal in the UK) it pushes the temp up a degree or two. It may also input into the auto headlights but not sure on this.
  3. I assume they are bulb type gauges and not electric.
  4. The 101 uses dash instruments that are variations of Series 3 instruments. The main difference is where Series 3 has a multi-display instrument containing fuel, temp and a blank with a red light, the 101 has fuel, temp and oil temp. The water temp and oil temp gauges of the 101 are bulb style gauges rather than electric gauges. The 101 stuff is hard to find and expensive and the bulb tube often gets damaged when you pull the dash then the gauge does not work - I have two new gauges but the bulb tubes are too short on the water temp gauge as I suspect I was actually sent gauges for a light
  5. I would agree - a good 24v alternator is normally pushing out an absolute max of 28v.
  6. You want to have your cake and eat it too - it is not that easy - you will have to do some fabrication and changing the wiring arrangement as alternatives do not have the same electrical plug arrangement as the mil alternator. I see you have put up pics of what you have now - it is the same 24v alternator in the 101 - I was able to replace mine with a "bosch style" 24v alternator without not a lot of issues - I used a 12v mounting bracket for my V8 and just needed to shim the alternator to the position to line up with the belts. Also ran charging cables direct from the new alternator to the
  7. I just looked up 24v alternator on ebay UK - 24,000 options for you to consider.
  8. My 101 is 24v and had the big 90amp 24v alternator - I swapped it out for a 'Bosch style'24v 60 amp and it works well - is 1/3 the weight and 1/3 to size of the original unit. Bought off ebay but most auto electricians can order them in.
  9. He is asking about a FL2 not a FL1 - completely different beast - does not have a VCU but a Haldex unit completely different.
  10. Just a standard RTV style sealant suitable for vehicles - just a smear not a lot as you dont want it to ooze out and restrict airflow etc.
  11. I have always used sealant and not had leaks. Started using sealant because one fitted at the time was sucking in air and causing running issues.
  12. And what makes you think there is a problem - seems normal and if you dont have any fault lights is most likely normal. The car does level regularly and the compressor does run quite often when you are driving around.
  13. But he is not asking about a L322 - asking about a L320 or L494.
  14. Yes replace in pairs - you old battery may be OK but it will be worse than the new battery and the old battery will be constantly taking power from the new battery to top it up and it will ultimately die - might take a while but will die - replace batteries together and use the old battery somewhere else.
  15. Yes and designed for that function - body off in only a couple of hours with fittings designed or placed for easy removal - no where near as bad as it sounds.
  16. I am not sure of the specific damage but when about 90 tonnes doing 100kph rams your little 10 tonne Stalwart up the back end and pushes you off the highway and in doing so rolls you a number of times the damage has to be substantial.
  17. An acquaintance of mine has a Stolly (as well as a 101GS) and has been working on it for years - easier if you dont want it to float but then of course everyone does. There is another Stolly I know of where the owner converted it as a "exped vehicle" - was 2wd on the road, economical diesel etc etc - unfortunately while returning from a military event it got rear ended by a huge semi trailer (B double - two trailers) and got rolled a few times with the owner in hospital for 6 months - the Stolly came off second best and was a technical right off but I am sure in the years ahead it may get
  18. This is a L320 not a P38 - the jacking points are under the chassis - there are holes in the chassis where the jack goes into it to stop the jack sliding around. With an aftermarket jack you can also use the suspension wishbones. The jacking points are just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. I am sure with some preparation to spread the load part of the body may be strong enough to jack on - afterall there spots where the pads of the arms of a two post lift go - not sure where these are but I assume at the spots where the body bolts to the chassis.
  19. Though difficult and not recommended, the engine can be removed with an engine hoist in the home garage without cutting holes - however it is difficult and stressful but can be done.
  20. There are no jacking points on the sills or body - factory points are under the chassis.
  21. So if you do not have a two post lift how do you intend to lift the body high enough to clear the chassis - engine etc to enable work to be done. I am sure you could slowly jack the body up resting on jack stands but you are not going to get it very high - definitely not enough to actually clear the chassis. The recommended approach is there for a reason.
  22. Yes - that is on the list to do - is a pain to do for all 8 in a Fc 101, so when I get the motivation I will check it along with the spark plugs.
  23. In Australia we have plenty of 6x6s sold off from the Army a while back - as mentioned good for carrying load and good for traction in open country but they are no good in tight offroading scenarios.
  24. Thanks for that - yes your logic is sound but I do not have the breather system set up yet so both rocker cover breathers just vent to atmosphere with no sucking of fumes into the inlet system. Thanks for your input. Garry
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