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Everything posted by garrycol

  1. You really have no idea what you are talking about - such opinions when you only got to drive one once a few years ago doesn't really count. Well there are 4 gears or six with overdrive. It is not hot as hell in the cab and I live in Aust with 40 degree summers - as l;ong as the correct insulation is in place the cab is not hot from the engine but heat can come in from the canvas - cooler than a series 3. Not as noisy as a series 3. Maybe the vehicle you drive did not have good shocks and the handling is quite good - certainly as good as a Series 3 - brakes are the same as a Series 3 and work fine if adjusted correctly. Maybe you should get one for a long term view - mine for 13 years and my other drive is a RRS and I love every minute in my 101 on or off road. What you call exped driving we call everyday driving and the Iveco Daily has one of the worst reputations for reliability and ability in my country - they are not a good vehicle. The Cummins in a 101 goes fine with an Allison box behind it - has been done here and is a great vehicle.
  2. In Australia we have a company that puts the 2.7TDV6 (and the 5 cylinder 3.2 Diesel out of a Ford Ranger) into modern Puma Defenders and another company has just put a LS crate engine in a Puma Defender. I dont know the configurations but they all work very well but are expensive. Garry
  3. Well no - there is more to it - threads are longer in the later kit. Just buy the correct kit for your engine.
  4. If you are not aware of it, there are two kits - one for the original Buick 215 which is generally used for the 3.5 RV8 and the later kit for the 3.9 on - it is ARP Number 157-4301.
  5. The Series 2 and 3 use UJ joints not CVs like later vehicles so ideally should use oil to get into all the bits but the down side is the oil can leak if the ball seal is not good. In my view just using grease in UJ systems is not good as the grease has trouble getting into the UJ needles etc. In nearly 50 years driving old Landrovers I have found the best compromise is a mix of oil and CV grease - put the one shot graese pack in and then fill the ball to the correct level with oil - the grease thickens the mix so it does tend not to leak as much and internally the oil carries the CV grease to the internals of the UJs where the CV grease is a better lubricant than just straight oil. I also use this mix on later CV based swivels and it works a treat.
  6. I was responding to the other guys comments about Lynx but in your first post you did say "No fault codes (or none that the Lynx can see anyway)" - you did not provide any qualifications but I now see that you are now getting some.
  7. No idea but if it is not reading the codes then it is clearly not suitable.
  8. Get the codes read with a proper code reader - if the engine will not start there will be fault codes in the system.
  9. Ok thanks - never seen it nor seen any pics of it. I just looked up Masai 4wd and can now see what you mean - her in Aust a panoramic window is a roof glass panel like a sunroof. Why would you - toss comes to mind.
  10. Just use a six sided socket and no rattle gun - problem solved - no need to spend a fortune on a set of sockets - of course OK if you have no sockets.
  11. Ok - thanks - here we would just use the chassis number (these are forensically checked for modification) - if correct for a series 3 (1981) then documentation would be needed for the modifications. If the chassis number shows up as a later vehicle then all is done is an advertising issue. Thanks
  12. Not being from the UK I am not understanding what the issue is with this vehicle. Please explain.
  13. You might put up a link or something so we know what you are talking about.
  14. Jaguar Land Rover is the company, Jaguar and Land Rover are the brands and within the Land Rover Brand you have Defender, Discovery and Range Rover Models - with Range Rover sub models such as Evoque, Range Rover Sport, Velar etc oh and of course just straight Range Rover
  15. I bought the combined unit shown below a number of years ago. Supposedly 3.5t rating and I had it bolted up and using it. For some reason I decides to see if a spare 3.5t rated 50mm tow ball I had would fit and still work as the balls were slightly different lengths. I took the ball out and shock horror the threaded shank on the ball was only 3/4 the diameter of a normal 50mm towball. Definitely not 3.5t rated - I used it to tow my small 750kg box trailer until I replaced it with a different system to tow 3.5t. A proper 3.5t 50mm ball will not fit what I had. So whatever you buy - make sure you know what you are actually getting so there are no surprises.
  16. I have no idea about the incident you are talking about - but here in Aust a few people have been killed where tow balls have failed during recoveries and flown into vehicle cabins killing an occupant . Use a tow ball for a recovery in my country you will correctly abused for unsafe practices and investigated by authorities if there is an incident - if in a 4wd Club you will be either banned or required to undertake remedial safety training.
  17. Do not use any ball for recovery - they have a habit of breaking and killing people - can handle relatively static loads like when towing but are poor at handling shock loads like in recovery and can shear off. Use a dedicated rated recovery point attached to the vehicle.
  18. Either is better than nothing but in most situations a locker in the rear as more helpful as normally lockers come into their own when going up hill and weight transfer improves effectiveness - front lightens but also steering is more difficult when the front is locked. However I would put it down to personal preferences and go with what you are happy with - though when offroad you can leave a rear locker in all the time but having a front locker in will cause major steering issues - mainly being heavy. I have one vehicle that has a detroit in the rear and it works great - install and forget. In my other vehicle I have a manual locker in the rear and a manual locker in the front - I use the one in the rear all the time but rarely have used the one in the front.
  19. Thanks for the information - yes is a bit on the expensive side and a little different to what I have but would probably work well.
  20. Thanks for that - the numbers are the opposite way round on each of the gauges and positioned differently but should work fine.
  21. Not quite - it is a light sensor. It is there to compensate for how the human body feels temp - that is the body feels hotter when it is bright and colder when dull. So this sensor pushes the climate control output temp down a degree or two over what is set when it is a bright and sunny day (something you don't get in the UK) and when it is dull and cold (as normal in the UK) it pushes the temp up a degree or two. It may also input into the auto headlights but not sure on this.
  22. I assume they are bulb type gauges and not electric.
  23. The 101 uses dash instruments that are variations of Series 3 instruments. The main difference is where Series 3 has a multi-display instrument containing fuel, temp and a blank with a red light, the 101 has fuel, temp and oil temp. The water temp and oil temp gauges of the 101 are bulb style gauges rather than electric gauges. The 101 stuff is hard to find and expensive and the bulb tube often gets damaged when you pull the dash then the gauge does not work - I have two new gauges but the bulb tubes are too short on the water temp gauge as I suspect I was actually sent gauges for a lightweight rather than a 101. Ideally I would like to change these two gauges to an electric version. I assume the standard series 3 water temp gauge is an electric gauge but does anyone know where I might find an electric oil temp gauge? - Both to fit in a standard 101/series 3 multi gauge. Thanks Garry
  24. I would agree - a good 24v alternator is normally pushing out an absolute max of 28v.
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