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garrycol

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Everything posted by garrycol

  1. Take it to a landrover specilaist and they should be able to sort it and if the places you took it to were "specialists" and could not fix it then take it somewhere else. Have you had the codes read on a LR specific code reader rather than the AA reader - it pays to get the codes read on the correct reader.
  2. Ok - thanks - not following at all - BCU? The BCU is the Body Control Unit that controls the functions related to the car body and it talks to other car ECUs including the Engine Control Unit - you need a new complete key fob with all its electronics and immobilizer chip that then need to be coded to the car. Not sure what the EML not coming on has to do with the problem. On start the EML along with all the other dash lights come on as a bulb check but the EML itself will not come on when starting if there are no issues. Anyway it is not clear to me what you have, are doing and what the issue might be. Good luck with it.
  3. What do you mean you have had a new key made? Did you just get a blank cut or buy a new fob and and get the blank cut. The issue you have seems to reflect that it is not turning off the immobilizer - does you new key have the immobilzer chip fitted (is different to the electronics to unlock doors etc) - both need to be programmed to the car.
  4. EVs will not be viable for travel in Australia for many many years - ok as a second vehicle to run around town or for a short drive in the country but not much more. Issue is not so much the of range as many upper end vehicles have good enough range but is excessive cost of purchase, lack of charging support and the excessive time is takes to charge to get reasonable range - many people can stop for lunch and recharge while doing so but where you need to just stop for fuel - the slow charging rate is not suitable. Garry
  5. Roof mounting points run down the outside of the roof so have no impact on a sunroof - use the OEM mounting points and there will be no issue.
  6. I cannot help with that one 🤥. I would be asking over on the UK RRS or UK D3/D4 forums for that sort of information.
  7. Yes I was going to suggest that if you really wanted to keep the plastic sump which most don't, you would have to lift the engine up to get the clearance but decided to leave the point as a followup if needed - but you have sussed what is required. If you are going to use this gearbox later - then definitely consider putting the metal sump on as it makes filter changes so much easier, though the sump still needs to be dropped but you dont have to lift the engine.
  8. I replied to your duplicate post - here is what I said You will most likely have the original plastic sump. You will need to get a hacksaw and cut the tube which allows the sump to fall away (discard) and then purchase a ZF metal sump with removable filter which can go in (as fitted to BMWs). With the metal sump fitted you will then in future be able to replace the filter without destroying the sump. This issue and mod is well known - go onto the UK RRS or the Uk D3/4 forums and all will be revealed. Some of the metal sumps dont have a drain plug - make sure you get one with it. This is what you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372685656336?epid=1455913583&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item56c5cbd110:g:PrIAAOSw5Ohc7WVC&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSafTQYbq3L7RBVAMi0K9cwwe4R39ypwfGLf1XZ6oAdYIHi1mrRfQvwDY5vivcq12H86mazJOdCJVHGfb7vvI%2BlfyCfSw7YK13jFp8edyZKtoEo1xCRP0lnXnBFXsI18p9Bexw7JpdFogyXz%2FVHEX4M1xiYtZ%2B33JQNRFH14KGGD6D2izLzyNKfUEq0tovA3mH%2BJDmgDaOAGkTcLnsx9IvszNiiqYb3IHr0PIpsB98%2Fdpdq6%2B%2FVj9dXhf%2BDfraTkBc4B%2FScLjXF7JsyG8j1cZbKRgntNFxOw%2BK5rWaNQGwREkXRMPPgJ9r54eUveOaeeoOV5l2n1fnhcgrHqk6%2Fpc6bzxnHRZ%2BtiGGMXkENGrJLZBw3sGlNmE%2FnNpbjOuBS%2BcUWD%2FNFX%2BAhHcXyGa%2BEljjP%2BqtvSa%2FDGHpH%2BX1dIG4imGjRrF4%2FLpUpe1lzS9lN%2Bx%2BxY3YZLtoJhewJMff%2BMohQ%2FNspmdJugD5MTIII1VFF4CH34p7bUoPptzCn3gw5J2EkGlPpCzgqPe7y558xxLBFP0w5ef%2FTSvIiLJRixpLi0jd8ERMs6eYSdUlCGWVA7qPIFx3W%2Faw1GssGHdIyuux2e%2FR7ZWh2azNcIucUpYos7odWvVGpPRlQPOdRg3oxeXDDMzcPPmKjeFkbd%2BFPjmc7GJNhKefEzCTs0mhZjb5Wyega1ItSJa7jvG5P2BchHjKAC88nxtFwcctSL0EBKl6qF7TgmckZ0td88T3WxiB5FOq6SdEayWspHtPZySRkJrKJdu4mCDqVlSZsb3ht2C983XPdjAKdhrrSl%2B7hooSxkgTg%2BFcykYbxX0Gs46zK38JxXuTG4vvzrEDAQU4C8AwVEdmzJouuTSAeDOA%2BOn3tkc%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM8vLA28xf
  9. You will most likely have the original plastic sump. You will need to get a hacksaw and cut the tube which allows the sump to fall away (discard) and then purchase a ZF metal sump with removable filter which can go in (as fitted to BMWs). With the metal sump fitted you will then in future be able to replace the filter without destroying the sump. This issue and mod is well known - go onto the UK RRS or the Uk D3/4 forums and all will be revealed. Some of the metal sumps dont have a drain plug - make sure you get one with it. This is what you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372685656336?epid=1455913583&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item56c5cbd110:g:PrIAAOSw5Ohc7WVC&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSafTQYbq3L7RBVAMi0K9cwwe4R39ypwfGLf1XZ6oAdYIHi1mrRfQvwDY5vivcq12H86mazJOdCJVHGfb7vvI%2BlfyCfSw7YK13jFp8edyZKtoEo1xCRP0lnXnBFXsI18p9Bexw7JpdFogyXz%2FVHEX4M1xiYtZ%2B33JQNRFH14KGGD6D2izLzyNKfUEq0tovA3mH%2BJDmgDaOAGkTcLnsx9IvszNiiqYb3IHr0PIpsB98%2Fdpdq6%2B%2FVj9dXhf%2BDfraTkBc4B%2FScLjXF7JsyG8j1cZbKRgntNFxOw%2BK5rWaNQGwREkXRMPPgJ9r54eUveOaeeoOV5l2n1fnhcgrHqk6%2Fpc6bzxnHRZ%2BtiGGMXkENGrJLZBw3sGlNmE%2FnNpbjOuBS%2BcUWD%2FNFX%2BAhHcXyGa%2BEljjP%2BqtvSa%2FDGHpH%2BX1dIG4imGjRrF4%2FLpUpe1lzS9lN%2Bx%2BxY3YZLtoJhewJMff%2BMohQ%2FNspmdJugD5MTIII1VFF4CH34p7bUoPptzCn3gw5J2EkGlPpCzgqPe7y558xxLBFP0w5ef%2FTSvIiLJRixpLi0jd8ERMs6eYSdUlCGWVA7qPIFx3W%2Faw1GssGHdIyuux2e%2FR7ZWh2azNcIucUpYos7odWvVGpPRlQPOdRg3oxeXDDMzcPPmKjeFkbd%2BFPjmc7GJNhKefEzCTs0mhZjb5Wyega1ItSJa7jvG5P2BchHjKAC88nxtFwcctSL0EBKl6qF7TgmckZ0td88T3WxiB5FOq6SdEayWspHtPZySRkJrKJdu4mCDqVlSZsb3ht2C983XPdjAKdhrrSl%2B7hooSxkgTg%2BFcykYbxX0Gs46zK38JxXuTG4vvzrEDAQU4C8AwVEdmzJouuTSAeDOA%2BOn3tkc%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM8vLA28xf
  10. The noise is typical low oil pressure that any engine will make - remember that once you start the oil filter has to fill so that oil is not getting any components until it is full. However the coating of oil on components is enough to sustain it until pressure is gained - be worried if the rattle continued on for a while. Likewise the noise is to be expected when you do an oil filter change but after that you should not hear that rattle again until the next oil change - if you do then get worried. You said it was cold, so the oil will be thick so may take a little while longer to get pressure after an oil filter change.
  11. Assuming you put the little nipple on the oil filter into its hole in the housing before you put the external cannister over the top of the filter then what you describe is all normal. I assume it starts all fine now so all is good.
  12. Noting the Petrol coolant listed I am assuming it is a V8 petrol and not a 3.0 TDV6 - if it was the latter I would be looking at the crankshaft.
  13. Two totally unrelated issues that have different impacts on the engine. The broken crank is exactly that and may also take out the block. The oil pump issue is actually not the oil pump but a timing belt tensioner that is part of the oil pump housing - this housing breaks off detensioning the timing belt causing the valves to crash into the pistons so the bottom end of the engine is OK (including the crankshaft) but pistons and valve gear need replacing.
  14. Yes the tank was soldered to the bottom plate.
  15. There is ongoing argument on that - no Satphone carried so unable to contact anyone other than to set off their Personal Locator Beacon, also proceeded against advice of impending bad weather and not enough fuel to turn around and return to their start point when the weather closed in. Other than by air, no one can get near the vehicle due to ground conditions.
  16. This Camper is available for collection in the Western Simpson Desert in Australia - has been abandoned for now so a ngood opportunity for someone. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-11-16/helicopter-heading-to-rescue-perth-family-in-simpson-desert/100623514
  17. I have no personal experience but people who have put them in the front of their Defenders have not had any issues with increased steering loads etc. They are more of a LSD rather than a diff lock and in Defenders owners put a diff lock in the back and the TrueTrac in the front. Garry
  18. No it is not stand alone but Tornado systems can modify the Motronics ECU to run stand alone but be sitting down when you get the quote.
  19. That is true for older carbs that were not designed for offroad use - you can buy newervoffroad versions of Holleys and Webers and they work fine.
  20. Yes but you will still need the housing to connect the radiator hoses - if a 4.6 ditch the cows udder arrangement and fit an old 3.5 housing and if not running a thermostat then just block the thermostat bypass outlet.
  21. I have a 4.6 on carbs pending the installation of EFI in due course. I am running edis at the moment in default mode for ignition and works OK but have mega jolt to go on and then when converted to Efi it and edis will go. If you are going to run an older timing cover with a dizzy then as discussed above. Issues you need to look at - the old 3.5 etc has a rear filtered air intake at the back of the block that allows air into the crankcase - this is sucked into each carb via the outlets on top of the rocker covers. The 4.6 does not have this rear block inlet so I have the crankcase air inlet as the original crankcase breather on the passenger side with a filter and plumbed the drivers side into both carbs. So crankcase ventilation goes in the passenger rocker cover, into the crankcase and out the drivers rocker cover (with flame trap fitted) into both carbs but one will be probably be good enough. The other issue is the thermostat - through the cows udder style on the standard 4.0/4.6 and use the standard system on front of the carb. If you use a dizzy timing cover the thermostat bypass is not an issue but if you go without a dizzy and use a 4.0/4.6 timing cover you will need to sort this - as an interim measure I have just drilled a few small holes in the thermostat which works but I do need a better plumbed solution - just a pipe from the thermostat housing to the lower radiator hose. You can tune carbs for power, fuel and torque, afterall the injected 4.6 with about 160kw is not power house.
  22. Seems all very odd to me - a 4 wheel alignment is normally drive in and in just over an hour or two drive out - all done - equivalent cost of about 75 pounds. Do you have to to the nuts and bolts up as well?
  23. I would be going somewhere else - the garage should be able to do everything - even set it to Tight Tolerance Mode.
  24. Buy the correct Comotive or Tuff Ant Rims that fit without modifcation.
  25. You need to tell us what sort of Freelander - a Freelander 1 or a Freelander 2 - completely different vehicles. If a Freelander 1 it could be anything but very possibly a failing viscous drive coupling - if so do not drive as it will cause major damage elsewhere in the drive train.
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