garrycol

The 101 uses dash instruments that are variations of Series 3 instruments. The main difference is where Series 3 has a multi-display instrument containing fuel, temp and a blank with a red light, the 101 has fuel, temp and oil temp. The water temp and oil temp gauges of the 101 are bulb style gauges rather than electric gauges. The 101 stuff is hard to find and expensive and the bulb tube often gets damaged when you pull the dash then the gauge does not work - I have two new gauges but the bulb tubes are too short on the water temp gauge as I suspect I was actually sent gauges for a lightweight rather than a 101. Ideally I would like to change these two gauges to an electric version. I assume the standard series 3 water temp gauge is an electric gauge but does anyone know where I might find an electric oil temp gauge? - Both to fit in a standard 101/series 3 multi gauge. Thanks Garry

I would agree - a good 24v alternator is normally pushing out an absolute max of 28v.

You want to have your cake and eat it too - it is not that easy - you will have to do some fabrication and changing the wiring arrangement as alternatives do not have the same electrical plug arrangement as the mil alternator. I see you have put up pics of what you have now - it is the same 24v alternator in the 101 - I was able to replace mine with a "bosch style" 24v alternator without not a lot of issues - I used a 12v mounting bracket for my V8 and just needed to shim the alternator to the position to line up with the belts. Also ran charging cables direct from the new alternator to the batteries - identified the charging light wire and spliced in there - yes a bit of work will be needed but is not difficult. The advantage of using a bosch style 24v alternator is it is the same as the 12v version except for the internals and mounts up to the common mounting brackets.

I just looked up 24v alternator on ebay UK - 24,000 options for you to consider.

My 101 is 24v and had the big 90amp 24v alternator - I swapped it out for a 'Bosch style'24v 60 amp and it works well - is 1/3 the weight and 1/3 to size of the original unit. Bought off ebay but most auto electricians can order them in.

He is asking about a FL2 not a FL1 - completely different beast - does not have a VCU but a Haldex unit completely different.

Just a standard RTV style sealant suitable for vehicles - just a smear not a lot as you dont want it to ooze out and restrict airflow etc.

I have always used sealant and not had leaks. Started using sealant because one fitted at the time was sucking in air and causing running issues.

And what makes you think there is a problem - seems normal and if you dont have any fault lights is most likely normal. The car does level regularly and the compressor does run quite often when you are driving around.

But he is not asking about a L322 - asking about a L320 or L494.

Not really viable in a suburban home garage.

Yes replace in pairs - you old battery may be OK but it will be worse than the new battery and the old battery will be constantly taking power from the new battery to top it up and it will ultimately die - might take a while but will die - replace batteries together and use the old battery somewhere else.

Yes and designed for that function - body off in only a couple of hours with fittings designed or placed for easy removal - no where near as bad as it sounds.

I am not sure of the specific damage but when about 90 tonnes doing 100kph rams your little 10 tonne Stalwart up the back end and pushes you off the highway and in doing so rolls you a number of times the damage has to be substantial.

An acquaintance of mine has a Stolly (as well as a 101GS) and has been working on it for years - easier if you dont want it to float but then of course everyone does. There is another Stolly I know of where the owner converted it as a "exped vehicle" - was 2wd on the road, economical diesel etc etc - unfortunately while returning from a military event it got rear ended by a huge semi trailer (B double - two trailers) and got rolled a few times with the owner in hospital for 6 months - the Stolly came off second best and was a technical right off but I am sure in the years ahead it may get resurrected.

This is a L320 not a P38 - the jacking points are under the chassis - there are holes in the chassis where the jack goes into it to stop the jack sliding around. With an aftermarket jack you can also use the suspension wishbones. The jacking points are just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. I am sure with some preparation to spread the load part of the body may be strong enough to jack on - afterall there spots where the pads of the arms of a two post lift go - not sure where these are but I assume at the spots where the body bolts to the chassis.

Though difficult and not recommended, the engine can be removed with an engine hoist in the home garage without cutting holes - however it is difficult and stressful but can be done.

There are no jacking points on the sills or body - factory points are under the chassis.

So if you do not have a two post lift how do you intend to lift the body high enough to clear the chassis - engine etc to enable work to be done. I am sure you could slowly jack the body up resting on jack stands but you are not going to get it very high - definitely not enough to actually clear the chassis. The recommended approach is there for a reason.

Yes - that is on the list to do - is a pain to do for all 8 in a Fc 101, so when I get the motivation I will check it along with the spark plugs.

In Australia we have plenty of 6x6s sold off from the Army a while back - as mentioned good for carrying load and good for traction in open country but they are no good in tight offroading scenarios.

Thanks for that - yes your logic is sound but I do not have the breather system set up yet so both rocker cover breathers just vent to atmosphere with no sucking of fumes into the inlet system. Thanks for your input. Garry

I rebuilt a 4.6 RV8 a few years back but the engine has only covered about 200 miles since then. When built the engine ran Ok. May not be relevant but may be - a little while back the I was running the engine and the thermostat failed to open so the engine got hot - when it did open the coolant boiled and the metal temp on a head bolt sensor was 120c. The engine did not seize and when cooled started fine. Engine continued to start fine then about 6 months later smoke started to appear - is coming out from both banks. On a cold start there is no smoke, when the engine has been running for a little while oil smoke starts and gets quite thick. Driving the vehicle, the smoke remains for a while then it totally clears and there is nothing but a perfect exhaust colour. Here is a vid of the engine smoking [url=https://flic.kr/p/2iPSwJW][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49768491922_d6eb906824_b.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2iPSwJW]Vid Uphill with Smoke[/url] Here is a vid of the engine a couple of minutes later where the engine is running better and not smoking at all. [url=https://flic.kr/p/2iPN9bt][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49767635583_7de87d0626_b.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2iPN9bt]Vid Uphill no Smoke[/url] Now if it was valve seals wouldn't it smoke from start and likewise if it was rings wouldn't it smoke all the time and not clear. After some thoughts. Thansk Garry PS sorry about the lack of a click on link for the vids - normally it comes up but hasn't in this case.

Thinking further on this and doing some measurements. With the arrangement pictured above as you can see it is a very tight fit and part of the body work has to be cut away to make it fit. I also have at home a old 3.9 with the 14CUX injection manifolds etc still on it. I had decided not to use this as the inlet is only 65mm where the Thor is around 78mm so I thought would breathe better with a 4.6 engine. However tinkering around yesterday I did some further measuring and while the inlets are different sizes, the actual butterflys in the throttle bodies are the same at 65mm - the thor inlet narrows down before the butterfly I guess to speed up airfow to push its way through the long bananas where the 14CUX is straight into the plenum and into the engine. I dont know if the injectors are different but I think I could just fit the 4.6 injectors in if they flow more than the 3.9 injectors. The other advantage is that I can turn the 3.9 plenum around so the intake is on the drivers side and run the air intake around the back of the engine. i can then just use a 14CUX ECU to run injection and my mejajolt run the ignition. Given that GEMs produces more power but less low down torque than Thor I assume it is the same with 14CUX - the torque difference is not such an issue as the 101 is so low geared anyway. Any thoughts? Any thing I have missed? If 14CUX will work near as good as Thor, the ease of installation will be so much better. Thanks Garry

Shaving does improve clearance a bit but remember that many of the Landrovers with front sals like the one ton and 101 ran 9.00x16 tyres so there was already extra ground clearance by way of the much larger diameter tyres.