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jjk76

Getting Comfortable
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  1. I replaced the internal cartridge on my turbo after it leaked just like yours I also had a fair bit of play in the spindle so thought I had nothing to lose in trying one. had no issues at all or special tools to swap it out, the only slight issue I had was getting to bolts undone on the housing as there isn't a huge amount of room in there and I was paranoid that using an open-ended spanner would round off the bolts as they were in there pretty tight. In the end, I soaked them in penetrating oil and resorted to a heat gun to get them shifted and all was well. Since re-installation, it has been perfect, couldn't be happie3r and saved myself a fortune. I used these guys: https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_5497835-Uprated-HYBRID-Stage-1-Turbo-CHRA-Core-465171-465175-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-200tdi-Turbocharger-Cartridge.html
  2. I dont have that on my 200TDi, but check out the parts manual below item number 25. Hope it helps J
  3. Not used Raptor on my chassis, I just used red-oxide primer followed by chassis black followed by an annual waxoyl. I have however rebuilt a large trailer and used Raptor coat, I went for black on the chassis and green on the topsides (to match the Landrover) and I can confirm that it does indeed chip off on the corners and high use areas and water gets behind it and if there are any rust blisters in places sheets of the stuff fakes off. It's also quite hard to clean due to the textured finish, I am never sure about putting a pressure washer on it in case it just forces more water behind it. In my opinion, the brittleness of the finish would work against you using it on the chassis as its going to get chipped with every sone the flies up and once it starts to lift it's going to be a real PITA to refinish.
  4. I have, after the wiper box sproket seized on the wiper drive rack cable. Unfortunately, it was a dashboard off job including the airbox ducting behind it, steering wheel, instruments etc. You can just about get your hand down the back after removing most of the screws but to get any tools in there and prevent and plastic snapping I just removed the whole dash. Whilst I was in there I replaced both boxes (just in case) and not wanting to have to do it again and the drive cable and made sure it was well greased. I don't have any pictures (but I do still have the scars on my arms) some of that plastic is pretty sharp so be careful.
  5. Looks like the fuel tank breather on the top of the tank is cracked and leaking. A replacement pipe is not expensive but is an awkward job to get in there and swap it out. The same thing happened to mine and I ended up dropping the fuel tank to swap it out.
  6. Have you checked your tyre pressures? Are they equal on both sides? Also, are the tyres equally worn? One more thing to think about is the road you do your testing on. Does it have excessive camber on it? If so, the car will naturally drift to the left when braking. Jon
  7. Or if you are feeling lazy (like me) I covered the gauge in some self-adhesive window tint, did the job for me on a turbo gauge that was too bright.
  8. My 2007 TDCI had one as well and it was stowed in the battery box.
  9. I would check the steering wheel area first for poor connections or loose wires, if you drop the upper and lower steering wheel shroud off then you will be able to see the mount for the switch stalks. Is it possible a wire has been pinched somewhere in there as the indicator, head light and wiper switch are different switches? I would have thought that a bad earth would cause the particular switch operation to not operate at all, not operate you wipers randomly. Sounds like something is shorting somewhere, the first place to look is the wiring around the switches.
  10. Hello Nigel, I would also look for the earth as a possible source of your problem. I had a similar (ish) problem where several components were not working properly and some intermittently and I chased around the loom for ages looking for chaffed wires, shorts, water damage etc. Eventually, i bought myself a Sealey PP100 power probe which hooks up to the battery + & - and allows you to power up or check the earth of any 12v component on the car. I then went and powered some of the major components like my headlights, using the power probe on them which bypasses the car loom and found that all the lights etc were working fine and worked my way back the loom checking all the fuses, joints etc and using the Landrover wiring diagram, went to the pages that show the location of all the earth points in the car and found a loose body earth which was the source of my problems. I made a new one out and remounted it and cleaned off the corrosion on the mount and everything was fixed. Hope that helps a bit.
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