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dantastic last won the day on May 14 2014

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About dantastic

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  1. Ok, after much detective work I have found the answer to this. For anyone else googling this, there are 2 different versions, DCW604NT-XJ and DCW604NT-GB. The latter one comes with a 1/4" collet. I have not seen the GB version for sale anywhere, only the XJ version. The XJ comes with a 8mm collet. I have found the collets for the router, a standard enough thing but at the time of writing most spec pages are not yet updated to include the model number of the newer routers. So if you're looking, here they are: Dewalt DE6950 = 6mm Dewalt DE6951 = 1/4" Dewalt DE6952 = 8mm
  2. I had a closer look and there's no hope. I think I will have to look for another collet.
  3. I have just got delivery of a new router. A DeWalt dcw604. Online it is marketed as both 1/4" and also as 8mm. On the DeWalt website it says " 8mm (1/4") ". It came with only one collet in the box. My old router came with 3 collets, 6mm, 1/4" and 8mm. I have 1/4" and 8mm bits I want to use and I somewhat expected this one to also come with 2-3 collets. I have tried it out with a 8mm bit and it's a perfect fit. I have not even tried with a 1/4" bit. So my question is, should it work? I don't think so myself but I'd be delighted to be wrong, if the one collet worked with a ra
  4. I have 2 DeWalt ones. One big and one small. I get an insane amount of use out of the small one. It's relatively small physically as well so it's light to work with and it can get in places. You have to be a bit careful with it because it packs serious power and I have sheared several bolts and screws with it. The bigger one I don't get to use as often but it's magic for wheel nuts and other things that just won't move. It's quite heavy and loud though and considering the amount of use I get out of it I consider it expensive. If you do more wheel nuts, or more bigger stuff then maybe it's
  5. I did use my mates plunge saw a while back and I was blown away by it. The track is awesome. I don't think I can stretch my budget to a Festool but I really want a cordless one. That bit is actually more of a need than a preference. If I'm adding a new battery system anyway I will add the DeWalt 54v. I was hoping that I might be able to modify the base of the circular saw to use the track but maybe I should just cry once and buy the proper plunge saw.
  6. I have a big heavy corded circular saw but I'm going a lot of cabinets and finer work at the moment so I wanted something lighter and without a cord. All my other cordless tools are DeWalt so I really want to stay on the same battery system. The Dewalt DCS391 seems to be the most obvious choice. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeWalt-165mm-Lithium-Ion-Body-Circular/dp/B006XBSXAE) But what I really want is a track for it. It's for finer work where I need a clean edge and if I get a new saw I don't want to have to clamp a guide to the piece, I should just get the right saw for the job.
  7. It appears the lambda sensor is gone. The nanocom register a voltage of around 0.01 at times. It should sit at a bit over 4 on tickover. I can't get hold of a new sensor today so I will try to clean it, hopefully it will prolong the life until I can get a new sensor. Maybe it will do nothing.
  8. After going back onto the motorway after a fuel stop this evening the car lost all guts and a check engine light came on. It won't rev over 2-2500rpm. Completely gutless. I have an error: P0427 Catalyst Temperature Sens or Low Input (Bank 1) I can clear it with the nanocom but 2 secs later it's back again. It's a 2016 2.2 (Juuust out of warranty). Any ideas???
  9. The ex mod ones I've seen have series doors and seem to have some weird dash/center console. I'll keep my eyes open for a non wolf ambulance. Winter project so I've a couple of months.
  10. The ambulance body on its own is £3750. This means the 130 running chassis is approx £20k without the cost of the body. That seems like a lot. Sure they are low mileage but they don't have normal doors, not the normal center console or anything so there is a lot of work that needs to be done the a base £20k+ vehicle. The single-cab 130s I've found have all lived a pretty hard life. They are working vehicles. It would feel silly to start a big camper build without fixing them up first. Good bit of time+money+more time. I don't have unlimited amount of time to play with this unfortuna
  11. Hmm, that yahoo group seems to be gone. None of the links to it work anymore.
  12. Must say I didn't expect Yahoo groups to still exist! I'll poke my head in there to see what I can find. Thanks!
  13. Interested in getting an ambulance to convert to a camper. I've found one or 2 ex-mod outlets looking for pretty big money. Can they be sourced from anywhere else?
  14. No need to buy bock and chains. Just use ratchet straps. I'm sure you have some laying around the place. You can attach somewhere on the car, Like onto the engine itself. Or you could build something with scaffolding. Ratchet straps are as good as a second pair of hands in many cases!
  15. I got in contact with the guy who runs the site linked to by @daveturnbull above. He suggested the fan was totally repairable using magnets, just like @zardos suggested. So I have magnets bought and a 2 component liquid metal kind of filler bought that I will try to repair the fan with. Failing that I will get a Chinese fan. The German units are working really well but the parts are insanely expensive. If you treat the Chinese heaters as disposable you'd be better off. If if wasn't for the fact that I already own the Eberspacher I would 100% get a Chinese one.
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