dantastic

Ok, after much detective work I have found the answer to this. For anyone else googling this, there are 2 different versions, DCW604NT-XJ and DCW604NT-GB. The latter one comes with a 1/4" collet. I have not seen the GB version for sale anywhere, only the XJ version. The XJ comes with a 8mm collet. I have found the collets for the router, a standard enough thing but at the time of writing most spec pages are not yet updated to include the model number of the newer routers. So if you're looking, here they are: Dewalt DE6950 = 6mm Dewalt DE6951 = 1/4" Dewalt DE6952 = 8mm

I had a closer look and there's no hope. I think I will have to look for another collet.

I have just got delivery of a new router. A DeWalt dcw604. Online it is marketed as both 1/4" and also as 8mm. On the DeWalt website it says " 8mm (1/4") ". It came with only one collet in the box. My old router came with 3 collets, 6mm, 1/4" and 8mm. I have 1/4" and 8mm bits I want to use and I somewhat expected this one to also come with 2-3 collets. I have tried it out with a 8mm bit and it's a perfect fit. I have not even tried with a 1/4" bit. So my question is, should it work? I don't think so myself but I'd be delighted to be wrong, if the one collet worked with a range of different it sizes.

I did use my mates plunge saw a while back and I was blown away by it. The track is awesome. I don't think I can stretch my budget to a Festool but I really want a cordless one. That bit is actually more of a need than a preference. If I'm adding a new battery system anyway I will add the DeWalt 54v. I was hoping that I might be able to modify the base of the circular saw to use the track but maybe I should just cry once and buy the proper plunge saw.

I have a big heavy corded circular saw but I'm going a lot of cabinets and finer work at the moment so I wanted something lighter and without a cord. All my other cordless tools are DeWalt so I really want to stay on the same battery system. The Dewalt DCS391 seems to be the most obvious choice. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeWalt-165mm-Lithium-Ion-Body-Circular/dp/B006XBSXAE) But what I really want is a track for it. It's for finer work where I need a clean edge and if I get a new saw I don't want to have to clamp a guide to the piece, I should just get the right saw for the job. In terms of DeWalts offerings that's the only saw the size that I want but also on the same battery system so I'm really not sure what to do here. I know people make their own tracks out of ply but they are a bit **** as they also needs to be clamped down and they add to thickness. This makes beveled cuts tricky, I've tried this already. So I don't really know what to do. Anyone any ideas or suggestions for other saws?

It appears the lambda sensor is gone. The nanocom register a voltage of around 0.01 at times. It should sit at a bit over 4 on tickover. I can't get hold of a new sensor today so I will try to clean it, hopefully it will prolong the life until I can get a new sensor. Maybe it will do nothing.

After going back onto the motorway after a fuel stop this evening the car lost all guts and a check engine light came on. It won't rev over 2-2500rpm. Completely gutless. I have an error: P0427 Catalyst Temperature Sens or Low Input (Bank 1) I can clear it with the nanocom but 2 secs later it's back again. It's a 2016 2.2 (Juuust out of warranty). Any ideas???

The ex mod ones I've seen have series doors and seem to have some weird dash/center console. I'll keep my eyes open for a non wolf ambulance. Winter project so I've a couple of months.

The ambulance body on its own is £3750. This means the 130 running chassis is approx £20k without the cost of the body. That seems like a lot. Sure they are low mileage but they don't have normal doors, not the normal center console or anything so there is a lot of work that needs to be done the a base £20k+ vehicle. The single-cab 130s I've found have all lived a pretty hard life. They are working vehicles. It would feel silly to start a big camper build without fixing them up first. Good bit of time+money+more time. I don't have unlimited amount of time to play with this unfortunately. I will keep looking.

Hmm, that yahoo group seems to be gone. None of the links to it work anymore.

Must say I didn't expect Yahoo groups to still exist! I'll poke my head in there to see what I can find. Thanks!

Interested in getting an ambulance to convert to a camper. I've found one or 2 ex-mod outlets looking for pretty big money. Can they be sourced from anywhere else?

No need to buy bock and chains. Just use ratchet straps. I'm sure you have some laying around the place. You can attach somewhere on the car, Like onto the engine itself. Or you could build something with scaffolding. Ratchet straps are as good as a second pair of hands in many cases!

I got in contact with the guy who runs the site linked to by @daveturnbull above. He suggested the fan was totally repairable using magnets, just like @zardos suggested. So I have magnets bought and a 2 component liquid metal kind of filler bought that I will try to repair the fan with. Failing that I will get a Chinese fan. The German units are working really well but the parts are insanely expensive. If you treat the Chinese heaters as disposable you'd be better off. If if wasn't for the fact that I already own the Eberspacher I would 100% get a Chinese one.

The life span is a major selling point for sure. Especially on a Puma where changing light bulb means the whole reflector has to come off and the unit has to be recalibrated after. I'm not so sure about the light output claim to be honest. If you already have a sound setup (boomslang loom or similar) then I'm not convinced the light is any stronger. If you have an older vehicle with candle lights then I imagine it's a massive improvement. I do find the light easy on the eyes in the dark. Your eyes don't feel as strained as they do from driving in the dark with regular bulbs.

Having seen these bulbs in action I'm a bit on the fence. The ones I saw was a pair of Philips, about the £150 mark. These were installed in a set of wipac crystals. In dusk you can't really see the light being emitted. It's strange, you can see the road just fine but you can't identify the light being cast on the road. There's not yellow light thrown on the road. In the dark I found them very good. Things were very clear and the area ahead felt lit up and easy on the eyes. Why I'm on the fence is I'm not sure if they are better or not. I think the colour temperature is easier on the eyes in the dark. But I'm also so used to the warmer colour tones that I felt they weren't working in the dusk. They obviously were, I just wasn't used to see the light that way. These ones make the correct pattern and doesn't blind oncoming traffic. There are reports online that they will pass testing for what that is worth. I think Halogen is still king but the LED bulbs are getting better and these might be a good option for some.

Alibaba do fans for a tenner. Full blower assemblies for about 30. I'll go through a lot of them before I've paid for a genuine one...

The blower assembly new is two times the price of a full heater install kit from China. I'll take my chances...

Problem is the impeller is a bit damaged where the magnet should sit. I might try if I can't get hold of one

Airtronic models have a magnet mounted in the impeller for checking the motor rotation speed. https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/eberspacher19_big.jpg Yup. I am missing this magnet! Anyone with a spare impeller???

This forum has a wealth of knowledge so I figured I'd ask here. I have an old Eberspacher D2 I want to use for a project. I've done a service and it looks really nice and clean. Trying to start the unit the fan spins up for about 2 sec and then everything just shuts down. The only error code logged is '33'. The manual suggests this is a fan speed issue. The fan speed is measured by a magnet. I have taken the fan off the motor and I can see on the back that there has been significant rubbing. There's also an empty hole where a magnet could have been located. So me question is, should there be a magnet mounted to the fan? Or where is the magnet the sensor is using to measure the fan speed?

Will I need to trim the brace in the middle of the panel? or will the cutout clear it? Is that spot welded on?

That's a very good idea! I can screw the template to the panel as I'm getting rid of it anyway. I have a router so this might be the best option!

The template says a radius of 61mm. I don't have a hole saw that can do that so will have to do that with the grinder as well. bacon-slicer disc, slitting disc. Are these even thinner than regular cutting discs? Haven't seen them at my local disc-monger I don't think.

Hmmm.. right. So angle grinder it is I suppose... 😬