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steve_a

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Everything posted by steve_a

  1. I did the same thing..... Without the damage and took me about 3 months to notice. Looks like a tappet, acts like a tappet, isn't a tappet
  2. Might be worth checking the boost fuel pin, it sounds like it might be stuck down so as soon as you rev it's dumping too much fuel in. It's odd as there isn't a lot to TDi's and if they start they usually work OK for everything else.
  3. The autobox ecu can apparently reach fine without extension to sit vertically in the centre console. I keep meaning to do it, but we don't do a lot of wading so not been a big deal. This does, for a quick fix, get you probably 6" of extra depth, by that time the throttle pedal probably won't work anyway That would be the next one to move up - the defender guys have done this, but not sure I've heard about it on a disco
  4. Scheduled for 33 degrees with a smattering of lethal bushfire.
  5. Oil pressure relief valve? No idea where it would be or even if they are in the filter. The V8 has the issue that the valve sticks open and you get no pressure, sounds like sticking closed?
  6. Eagle are a SA and WA outfit, their campers are middle price, but pretty good quality. Like any of the cheaper ones they are made in China, but they do a fair bit of finish and refettle in Aus to make sure they are not duffers. I compared the eagle with the cub camper at a few shows and honestly, the cub was not worth another $20k. In fact the only stand out was Complete Campsite, their camper was beautiful, but $70k.... We don't tend to do overseas holidays so we just justified it on the base of what we would spend doing a OS holiday each year. And then we bought a new property.... our camping is now curtailed while we recover on finances and bring the land back up to standard, so the most the camper is likely to do is maybe only a few hours away or dragging it up to the back paddock The camper may also cause an end to land rover ownership... It's about 1.9t fully filled to head away and the TD5 is not getting any younger. Been seriously looking at where to go next. On the plus side, now we have a load of land I've been eyeballing S1,2,3 for a restoration and to bimble about the property in.
  7. We have a few camp setups, Tent and Gazebo, swag and camper trailer. Depends on where we are going, how long for, how far and if the dogs are with us. Camper has only been used on about 4 trips so far though. The awning tent in one of the photos is actually pretty good (our awning is an odd size, so it's a bit rumpled, but fits normal ones fine). Cost wise: Tent in picture was $300, but can't get them anymore, nearest I've seen is OzTent turbo tent I think it was which is near identical, but about $1500 Swag was $150 Awnings are about $150, tent with it was about $50. We have one one the side (2.4m) and one on the rear. Camper was about $21,000 though - so that is a bit more serious. We got the camper after going away and finding nothing but hard rock camping and couldn't put the tent out too well. The camper is a hard floor model, so no pegs unless you put the annex up, has 130L of water, water pump, kitchen, place for the fridge and a normal bed in it. We even have a hot water system On useful note, we swapped the mattress in the swag for a blow up one, the swag now rolls away to very little and is more comfortable to boot.
  8. I appreciated the realness of his videos, I mean, surely we've all got an oil rag made from an old pair of undies I've found his videos interesting, but I thought he was paddocks and brit part sponsored originally and the patreon thing had only been in the last 6 months or so?
  9. There's an outside chance it is just the bearing in the cover at the front, been a while since I've been into a manual, but from memory there is a seal and and race held on by the cover. It can be replaced without taking the box apart, you take the cover off and it all falls to bits. IIRC the race can't be done without taking apart, but the cage obviously can. However, I don't remember the input shaft coming free after removing the bearing, but it was ages ago (like more than 10 years!). It's out, so you may as well take the cover off and see if the bearing has disintegrated.
  10. I heard a tall tale about someone who was manufacturing a specific seal, they sent a prototype to China with a couple of holes, I think it was to evaluate the quality of the production. The next minute this seal was being sold all over the place, but complete with the holes so that it didn't work...
  11. D1 V8? In that case you can look at https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=79207 which is about RoverGauge and open source tool to talk to the 14CUX. It requires a bit of wiring to get the serial input, I can't recall the details but they are linked there. Nanocom can do this too, but to be honest, that's an expensive option if it's just for the old V8. If the D1 300Tdi EDC then I'm not sure there is any option.
  12. Eep, nope, the bung you also referred to is the source for brake vacuum boost and is a kind of push fit fitting, easily broke. The ABS pump is exactly that and used for the ABS brake control and not for manual braking.
  13. And South Australia ;-) I keep mentioning it on Facebook. I reckon your photo dismantle method would be awesome for maintenance DVDs for kit, if we ever get a bit of kit that we want a super dooper workshop manual/DVD we'll give you a shout. A lot of the military kit has manuals, but the squadies can never have it dumbed down enough and they would be great.
  14. If you go for that gearbox and transfer box combo it looks like you will need to do something with the high low lever or you'll be operating it with your anus.
  15. You could try a peugot or vw one if you can find on in a scrap yard? You could try the robbing buggers over my way, make sure you are sat down when you ask them how much. I'm sure they'll refurbish it first and coat it with bullshotomium to stop any further wear..... I noticed when I was doing the tuning that the horizontal pin hard worn a slight groove into the boost compensater pin, but since I was turning through about 20 degrees it didn't matter. Thought about just tweaking through 4 or 5 degrees, slightly more or less fuel and hence tune. Just curious about your oval comment, and I'm sure you know, but the pin has different angles for boost compensation as you rotate it, so it will kind of be oval, as I said I found an actual groove where the fuel governor pin rides on it, which is the only wear I'd expect.
  16. There is a pretty cheap ebay kit containing all the seals for the pump available, it was a few years ago now I bought it and fitted a fair bit of it. ebay search There is also a good set of videos first video showing the process to do it in place and finally Simon Brown has a post here in the tech archive forums detailing some of the same work. If you are happy to remove from the car then it's going to be heaps easier, but presents it's own set of problems for alignment afterwards. The only thing I remember is making sure you mark the shaft properly, not like I did , and that you should push down on the throttle shaft while you remove the plate or I reckon you can bend the linkage, which makes for very strange running afterwards. No leak after the job for at least 12 months until I sold mine.
  17. It should be doable. Pull the rear sound cover off if you can't get at the bolts (I pulled mine off a month or two ago and filed it for further use and have only just remembered, so it doesn't make much difference to noise). I wonder if taking the rocker off might give you a bit more room and maybe even an option to push it out from the inside. Putting back on will involve a bit of leverage I guess, they just push in, but having said that, it's reasonably tight. Why they didn't just use a bolt on metal plate with gasket I have no idea... BTW even with the gearbox out, the access is still pretty average
  18. Did you follow the correct filling procedure, it's an awkward one. Car level, filler plug out, fill till starts to come out. Start car and keep filling as someone moves through the gears until you get a dribble out. Next thing to check is the wiring, it can chafe around the rear of the transfer box. If the display shows the correct gear as you move through the box then the xyz switch is OK, assuming alignment is correct. After that you need to get the box diagnosed by something like nanocom and see if there are any clues. The other mechanical check is to put pressure gauges on the test ports and see if everything is correct. Use of pressure sensors and an oscilloscope appears to be a much better way of doing this though, with the ability to almost tell exactly what is wrong from the traces. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vM2eylbj4Go
  19. And make sure you can get the filler out first.... If it's a torx thingy then give it a really good clean before starting, they don't take much rubbish in them to cause poor grip and round out... then you have some interesting times. The last one I did I reckon was also red or blue thread locked in... didn't get it out until the whole box was off and I could weld something to it.
  20. Pretty sure you are going to need a new flywheel. The auto flywheel has less mass (that looks beefier from memory) and *also* has holes for each of the triangle tips of the flex plate. Otherwise you are going to find it difficult to bolt it to the torque converter - the hole at the bottom is not really for doing those up - you might manage, maybe, but I tried once (don't ask!).
  21. EDC still has throttle cable doesn't it. 99% sure mine did, as the cruise control would operate the vacuum and drag the pedal down and I'm sure I remember the cable being on the pump.
  22. Don't sweat it, there isn't anything different. I think the binnacle is actually the same, it's facia of the speedo dial that is different, it will probably have both kph and mph marked (I wish my Aus discovery did). The audio system may have some differences, but it's mainly because if it's a high line model it needs line out not speaker out (you can get a doodad off the internet to convert it, otherwise you get terrible hum). And the other thing might be that it's EDC. I had one before I left the UK and it was immaculate condition, I was gutted to leave it there, but we'd not owned it quite long enough.
  23. I think the oil enters on the plug that sits face down in the head drivers side front. I'd struggle to be convinced that the oil enters at the actual injector connectors and wicks up around and down. The O ring comment is confusing, there are only the 2 o rings as shown in the tech archive on the same plug and if they fail the oil will go down the outside, not down the wires. The only other O rings are the ones on the injectors, and he can't be talking about them. It's reputed that a perm fix is to cut the loom on the outside say 2" from the plug as it goes into the rocker cover and then just reconnect with solder. The solder basically stops the wicking effect of the wire and the oil goes no further than the join.
  24. Have you checked for any diesel leaks. My last 300 was from 95 and not long before I sold it the pump developed a leak from the rear distributor seal. Thinking back and triggered by looking at the battery I replaced from that truck for poor start issues, I wonder if it was a bit of air in the lines after sitting. The other thing to check might be the fuel solenoid, perhaps this isn't opening fully, restricting the flow enough to cause the revs to drop after the surplus fuel in the pump was used.
  25. You need to tell us what state ideally too, because the prices vary a heap. $5k here in SA would, depending on the day, get a reasonable D1 TDi. You'd get a reasonable D1 V8 as well, probably slightly newer and maybe a bit better condition. I don't think you'd get a sniff of a Defender for that in SA though. It might not be a popular option, but go have a look at the Great Wall cars, their resale value is terrible, but you might get a 5 year old vehicle for $5k and as a backpacker I'd expect that this might present less opportunities for maintenance
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