smokeyone

Doing the props it is then - thanks again

Thank you for the advice - I almost guessed you were going to say that - looks like I might be shortening/lengthening propshafts. The only other idea I found which would only solve the rear propshaft length is to relocate the springs on the axle by re-drilling the pin hole - but is it such a good idea -

I am still have my forever ongoing 300tdi/five speed project and am thinking about moving the lot back about an inch -to gain slightly more room at the front. Would I get away with standard propshafts - would the two inch slip joint be enough. Otherwise is there a standard propshaft either one inch longer or one inch shorter that would fit. I have been through the various LR propshaft lengths but all seem more than one inch/25mm difference.

Good idea - also I have just solved the loading mystery - not sure why it is happening but I right clicked - refresh - and the page loads but it never happened before. Any takers on just seven studs holding the bellhousing to the 300tdi !

I am not anti electric vehicle but if there's millions of electric cars on the road - where is all this electricity coming from - I though we were at about 95% capacity now from the power stations .....

Thanks but in which case I have the loading message and the endless thingy going round and round ....

Thank you very much for the link - great write up - a pity the images are not available any longer and the subsequent pages do not seem to load but that could just be my computer - but many thanks anyway .....

It may not be the correct forum to post but i am guessing various members have had the same query - I am trying to mate a Ashcroft short bellhousing to a 300tdi - the bellhousing is really designed for a 200tdi - I can get seven studs to match on the 300tdi backplate - between 9 o'clock & 4 o'clock plus probably a small stud at six o'clock - is this enough... Plan B would be to purchase a 200tdi/2.5na backplate, cut out the centre and bolt it to the 300tdi but then you loose the engine mount stiffening brackets which bolt to the standard 300tdi backplate. There is loads on the forum/web about these conversions but you can receive conflicting reports ...

Thank you all for the advice - I'll look into the Steve Parker kit - so if the images have disappeared then that explains why after much searching/googling I could find no trace - I am sure there was a nice write up as well - I should have copied the articled when I found it ....

Thank you very much for the links - they could have been the articles but I thought (could be wrong) that the mounts designed were a bolt on job - it even had a drawing with measurements but as I say I could be wrong - Happy New Year

Hello Some time ago I found on the web (I thought it was this forum but maybe not) a write up on putting a 300tdi in a series complete with photographs and drawings of how to make the engine mounts - including a cut out missing the oil filter - really detailed information using 5mm steel - Does the article ring a bell with anybody and yes I have used the search function ... Many thanks

Thanks for the information - I will now leave well enough alone and get on with the rebuild.

Thanks very much for the confirmation - I was just a bit concerned that the whole weight of the transfer case/gearbox was supported by just the transfer case original mounts plus (maybe over cautious) the ashcroft adapter plate is only held by six bolts each side - it just seemed as though there would be less stress if the gearbox was supported - other posts/other forums infer about using a welded in defender crossmember for support instead - Cheers

HelloI have mated a series transfer case to the r380 gearbox with an ashcroft kit and tdi engine.It's in the chassis using the original transfer case mounting brackets and new engine mountswith the r380 gearbox hanging inbetween.My thought is should I have welded a defender gearbox crossmember in instead to support the gearbox rather than use the transfer case mounts.Thanks

Hello I have been through the manuals and parts catalogues trying to find an exploded diagram of a series 3 transfer case. I have found the diagram of the outside parts but could not find anything of where the various gears, bearings etc go - it's been over a year since I took it all apart and would rather not leave out an important washer etc - Hope someone can help. Many thanks

Thanks for the offer of help - had to order a key so may have to wait a few days -

Thanks again for all the advice, crank seems undamaged, going out today to see if I can buy a new woodruff key but earlier in the thread mention was made that there are two keys ..............

Just a short update but have now got the pulley off - the holding nut I undid with my fingers, bad sign - just a tiny piece of woodruff key left, say 3mm by 3mm, wonder where the rest is -

Still figuring out how to get to the pulley, the rad is supposed to just slide out but after years in situ could end up breaking it - thinking about taking the whole front rad/a/c condensor and oil cooler out as one unit. If it turns out I am in need of a new crank, still following your advice about getting one keyway installed, any thoughts on changing the engine over to a bmw 3 litre - the engine is supposed to be virtually the same except for the 2.5 - 3.0 litre difference.

Thanks all for the advice, will investigate further and report back - no vibration from the engine when it first happened - all seemed fine - oh by the way - the engine is supposed to be 90,000 miles old -

Sounds promising as I understand the oil pump is driven off the crank but I believe you have to remove the rad and the a/c unit to reach it - but maybe I do not have to take the sump off after all -

Good thought and thank you for the suggestion - update from my friend while he looked under the bonnet with the engine running and I turned the steering wheel - the serpintine belt stopped running when I turn the wheel which explains the alternator light and odd steering - has a pin sheared off somewhere -

Problems started a while back - out on a dual carriageway with the P38 - very loud metal sounding screatching from the engine - engine oil and alternator lights came on. Pulled over called breakdown/recovery - the chap thought it was one of the serpintine idler pulleys... Recovery home - next day, started the engine - alternator light now goes out but oil warning light stays on unless you rev the engine. However no very loud screatching noise...the noise has gone... Plenty of oil in the engine and have now connected an oil pressure gauge to the block - almost no oil pressure and if it's any help the top of the engine under the oil filler cap seems to have less oil sloshing around. By co-incidence unless someone knows better the alternator light now stays on and it is not charging the battery - I have tested it - and the power steering seems to be behaving oddly - first it's okay then seems heavy for a moment or two. My next thought would be to take off the sump to see if the oil pick up pipe is blocked but maybe someone has a better plan.... Thanks for any help...

Thanks -

Yes, tried changing the relay but no luck - not looking forward to taking the steering wheel apart -