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About Pawl12

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    West Midlands, UK

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    Competing in Road Taxed Vehicle (RTV) off-road trials

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  1. The plastic bush will be easily ground up by the gears . The metal selector ball is large & can probably cause some serious damage if left - especially if it moves around while the car is moving / gearbox rotating. I'd hope it's large enough to be seen with a good light & enough poking around. I would have thought the retaining circlip would also cause problems if left inside - being made of hardened spring steel. However, I never managed to retrieve the 1 that that fell inside on my gearbox when the plastic bush failed. There weren't any significant metal particles in the
  2. Modern Land Rover floors have really thick sound deadening in many areas - which may be less than secure for mounting the extinguisher. Have you tried pressing on the chosen areas to see if it "gives" / is soft underneath ?
  3. I think standard may be convex - at least that's what was on our TD5 & what I replaced it with when broken. can you remember whether vehicles looked smaller than you;d expect / was slightly distorted in your door mirror ? If yes, it was probably convex. If not, probably flat.
  4. +1 on Osram Night breakers. I've got them on our Disco 2 & L322 RR. The L322 are the HID versions, probably similar to those you'll probably need. They were a good improvment for light output on both. Beware there's a lot of dodgy / fake versions on eBay. I only use well known sellers on Amazon - still a huge saving vs Halfords or similar
  5. Why do you think the ACE system needs purging ? Has some part of the hydraulic system been changed ? There is an LR procedure which can be carried out with a diagnostic machine such as a Nanocom, but many people get successful results by driving the car in a tight figure 8 at lowish speeds so that the ACE system has to work hard as the car turns from left to right & right to left. PS When I first changed an ACE RAM on the front of the car, I did nothing special other than a simple "gravity bleed" & all appeared OK. However, it it very unlikely I removed all air from
  6. If its just a small jet of fluid rising in the reservoir at the very initial movement of the brake pedal, its probably OK. The reservoir has an open connection to the mastercylinder pressure circuits while the brakes are off. The first couple of mm of brake pedal movement seals the opening. If you tap the pedal quickly, some fluid in the mastercylinder gets pushed through the connection to the reservoir quickly & can appear as a visble jet of fluid, before the mastercylinder seals off & displaces fluid into the main brake system.
  7. I think it's far easier just to look in the right front wheel arch for the ACE hydraulic ram on the inner wing in front of the wheel. If it's not there, you've definitely got no ACE. If it's fitted , but the connection ports don't have hydraulic pipes going elsewhere, it's been disabled, but you've not got the correct non ACE ARB .
  8. £8 or so gets you a replacement camera off ebay if you're willing to do some minor wiring & installation work yourself. I swopped our camera out a year ago where all the internal soldered connections had broken (probably due to impact effects of tailgate shutting) Get on the fullfatrr forum & you'll get full instructions with photos & dos & don't ref camera choice (there are cameras available that won't work).
  9. The ALRC haven't forgotten they're one of the approved Licencing bodies. As part of their actions related to the M UK Permit fee increases & new Licence demands, they're evaluating what the Pros & Cons of using the authority granted them a few decades ago. They'll be announcing the results as soon as they can follow up all the issues (remembering they're an unpaid voluntary organisation, whereas M UK have a £3m pa salary budget !). The M UK changes were imposed at very short notice & without any of consultation with the "Grass roots motorsport" they allege to be promoting ?
  10. You seemed to have asked this question on a couple of forums without any answers. From what I've seen, trying to disconnect the ram end to get a new gaiter on can be very difficult as it's very easy to round off the retaining nut on the end of the ram which is mostly recessed into the pivot. It's also very difficult to grip the ram piston adequately to prevent rotation, but without damaging the piston surface / chrome. The exposed thread the nut has to pass over is invariably very rusty & doesn't help. I also had a badly split gaiter that I was advised would fail an MOT, so I w
  11. +1 on that. Unless, you regularly "cook" your brakes, the calipers shouldn't get that hot. I painted our 2.8T RRs calipers with smooth black hammerite more than a year ago, & their still unmarked.
  12. It's not exactly the same installation, but the TD5 in the Discovery 2 also runs cool - but as said above, it should get warm enough to create heat in the cab IF the thermostat is working OK. I run without a viscous fan Autumn to Spring, but only because I have a separate temperature gauge that I trust - as the TD5 engine is very sensitive to overheating & very expensive to repair if it overheats. I presume the temp gauge in the Defender operates the same as the Disco 2 & is electronically "modulated" to avoid worrying the driver until water temperature is very (dangerously) high.
  13. They're obviously not using a suitable screenwash if its still freezing in the UK. I think what I found from our local motor factors is called Decosol Excel Screenclean. Its stated to be OK down to -24C when used neat. I've never had it freeze at all yet in UK winters. You can buy it in 5 litre containers.
  14. Didn't use any special tools when I changed the FPR on our 10P engine TD5 a couple of years ago. It's a pig for access & I think I remember using an elastic band to hold 1 of the bolts in the FPR loosely while manoeuvring the FPR into position. It was easier than trying to find the bolt hole in the FPR mtg flange under the inlet manifold. Again, plenty of great advice on the infamous www.discovery2.co.uk website created by Urban Panzer.
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