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Pawl12

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About Pawl12

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  • Location
    West Midlands, UK

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Competing in Road Taxed Vehicle (RTV) off-road trials

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  1. If its just a small jet of fluid rising in the reservoir at the very initial movement of the brake pedal, its probably OK. The reservoir has an open connection to the mastercylinder pressure circuits while the brakes are off. The first couple of mm of brake pedal movement seals the opening. If you tap the pedal quickly, some fluid in the mastercylinder gets pushed through the connection to the reservoir quickly & can appear as a visble jet of fluid, before the mastercylinder seals off & displaces fluid into the main brake system.
  2. I think it's far easier just to look in the right front wheel arch for the ACE hydraulic ram on the inner wing in front of the wheel. If it's not there, you've definitely got no ACE. If it's fitted , but the connection ports don't have hydraulic pipes going elsewhere, it's been disabled, but you've not got the correct non ACE ARB .
  3. £8 or so gets you a replacement camera off ebay if you're willing to do some minor wiring & installation work yourself. I swopped our camera out a year ago where all the internal soldered connections had broken (probably due to impact effects of tailgate shutting) Get on the fullfatrr forum & you'll get full instructions with photos & dos & don't ref camera choice (there are cameras available that won't work).
  4. The ALRC haven't forgotten they're one of the approved Licencing bodies. As part of their actions related to the M UK Permit fee increases & new Licence demands, they're evaluating what the Pros & Cons of using the authority granted them a few decades ago. They'll be announcing the results as soon as they can follow up all the issues (remembering they're an unpaid voluntary organisation, whereas M UK have a £3m pa salary budget !). The M UK changes were imposed at very short notice & without any of consultation with the "Grass roots motorsport" they allege to be promoting ?
  5. You seemed to have asked this question on a couple of forums without any answers. From what I've seen, trying to disconnect the ram end to get a new gaiter on can be very difficult as it's very easy to round off the retaining nut on the end of the ram which is mostly recessed into the pivot. It's also very difficult to grip the ram piston adequately to prevent rotation, but without damaging the piston surface / chrome. The exposed thread the nut has to pass over is invariably very rusty & doesn't help. I also had a badly split gaiter that I was advised would fail an MOT, so I w
  6. +1 on that. Unless, you regularly "cook" your brakes, the calipers shouldn't get that hot. I painted our 2.8T RRs calipers with smooth black hammerite more than a year ago, & their still unmarked.
  7. Pawl12

    newbie!

    LOL - so true !
  8. It's not exactly the same installation, but the TD5 in the Discovery 2 also runs cool - but as said above, it should get warm enough to create heat in the cab IF the thermostat is working OK. I run without a viscous fan Autumn to Spring, but only because I have a separate temperature gauge that I trust - as the TD5 engine is very sensitive to overheating & very expensive to repair if it overheats. I presume the temp gauge in the Defender operates the same as the Disco 2 & is electronically "modulated" to avoid worrying the driver until water temperature is very (dangerously) high.
  9. They're obviously not using a suitable screenwash if its still freezing in the UK. I think what I found from our local motor factors is called Decosol Excel Screenclean. Its stated to be OK down to -24C when used neat. I've never had it freeze at all yet in UK winters. You can buy it in 5 litre containers.
  10. Didn't use any special tools when I changed the FPR on our 10P engine TD5 a couple of years ago. It's a pig for access & I think I remember using an elastic band to hold 1 of the bolts in the FPR loosely while manoeuvring the FPR into position. It was easier than trying to find the bolt hole in the FPR mtg flange under the inlet manifold. Again, plenty of great advice on the infamous www.discovery2.co.uk website created by Urban Panzer.
  11. Have a word with TD5inside, I think they're doing Variable Vane Turbos & even have options for multiple stages of tune from the same ECU with more than 200 bhp available.
  12. Have a look on www.discovery2.co.uk I'm sure Urban Panzer did a good write up of a re-build on there - with photos.
  13. Is it possible you've still got some air left in the system after bleeding? That would give the same symptom.
  14. Yes, Diff-lock & TC work well on the D2. It's not clear on my profile pic, but there's more about 2 foot of air under the Left front wheel - only possible because of them both allowing progress despite the massive hole / cross axle I was driving through. Shame, but unfortunately inevitable, about the tin worm taking hold on your chassis.
  15. Jon, has yours got standard ARBs ? Mine has still got ACE and what seems like more articulation than shown in your photo
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