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Pawl12

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About Pawl12

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    Member

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  • Location
    West Midlands, UK

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  • Interests
    Competing in Road Taxed Vehicle (RTV) off-road trials

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  1. You seemed to have asked this question on a couple of forums without any answers. From what I've seen, trying to disconnect the ram end to get a new gaiter on can be very difficult as it's very easy to round off the retaining nut on the end of the ram which is mostly recessed into the pivot. It's also very difficult to grip the ram piston adequately to prevent rotation, but without damaging the piston surface / chrome. The exposed thread the nut has to pass over is invariably very rusty & doesn't help. I also had a badly split gaiter that I was advised would fail an MOT, so I was also looking for a solution. My initial plan was to cut the old gaiter off & split the new gaiter to fit & then superglue it back together in situ. I was lucky in the end that I found a complete new Old Stock ACE ARB assembly for stupid money & replaced the lot in 1 go (it solved all sorts of noises that I hadn't realised were ARB related - lol)
  2. +1 on that. Unless, you regularly "cook" your brakes, the calipers shouldn't get that hot. I painted our 2.8T RRs calipers with smooth black hammerite more than a year ago, & their still unmarked.
  3. Pawl12

    newbie!

    LOL - so true !
  4. It's not exactly the same installation, but the TD5 in the Discovery 2 also runs cool - but as said above, it should get warm enough to create heat in the cab IF the thermostat is working OK. I run without a viscous fan Autumn to Spring, but only because I have a separate temperature gauge that I trust - as the TD5 engine is very sensitive to overheating & very expensive to repair if it overheats. I presume the temp gauge in the Defender operates the same as the Disco 2 & is electronically "modulated" to avoid worrying the driver until water temperature is very (dangerously) high. It stays in the middle from mid 70s C right upto 110C + - ie NOT great if you've removed the main cooling fan! A Kenlow has nowhere near the cooling capacity as the OE viscous fan - which is designed to cope with the worst excesses of towing on a very hot summers day.
  5. They're obviously not using a suitable screenwash if its still freezing in the UK. I think what I found from our local motor factors is called Decosol Excel Screenclean. Its stated to be OK down to -24C when used neat. I've never had it freeze at all yet in UK winters. You can buy it in 5 litre containers.
  6. Didn't use any special tools when I changed the FPR on our 10P engine TD5 a couple of years ago. It's a pig for access & I think I remember using an elastic band to hold 1 of the bolts in the FPR loosely while manoeuvring the FPR into position. It was easier than trying to find the bolt hole in the FPR mtg flange under the inlet manifold. Again, plenty of great advice on the infamous www.discovery2.co.uk website created by Urban Panzer.
  7. Have a word with TD5inside, I think they're doing Variable Vane Turbos & even have options for multiple stages of tune from the same ECU with more than 200 bhp available.
  8. Have a look on www.discovery2.co.uk I'm sure Urban Panzer did a good write up of a re-build on there - with photos.
  9. Is it possible you've still got some air left in the system after bleeding? That would give the same symptom.
  10. Yes, Diff-lock & TC work well on the D2. It's not clear on my profile pic, but there's more about 2 foot of air under the Left front wheel - only possible because of them both allowing progress despite the massive hole / cross axle I was driving through. Shame, but unfortunately inevitable, about the tin worm taking hold on your chassis.
  11. Jon, has yours got standard ARBs ? Mine has still got ACE and what seems like more articulation than shown in your photo
  12. Ref the 235/85x16 tyres : I use that size for off-roading in our D2 (Insa Turbo Special Track) on our approx 2in lifted D2. The tyre runs very close to the washer bottle , but shouldn't touch. I've got cut down inner wheel arch liners still in place & as long as they're tied forwards against the washer bottle pipes, it should be fine. I've used standard offset wheels & spacers / modulars. They're all fine. Biggest issue is the top outer edge of the tyre contacting the top outer edge of the wheel arch or top of the inner wing at full articulation. Overcome with stiffer springs / better dampers or slower driving - lol PS if you want to get a better idea of clearances, find yourself a very deep gulley to drive into at 45 degrees until you've got lots of articulation at both ends
  13. The term has now been hi-jacked by various parts resellers to help their sales. With many resellers it now only means the manufacture has supplied something to the vehicle manufacturer as original equipment on some vehicle - not necessarily the part you want to buy or the vehicle you want it for. It definitely used to mean the manufacturer was the original equipment manufacturer of the specific part on the specific vehicle. Genuine is the nearest equivalent nowadays I think.
  14. The ZF Lifeguard 6 gearbox oil is the only approved oil for the gearbox in your 3.6TDV8. There are others that are allegedly to the same specification, but you've got to decide whether you're willing to take the risk. They might perform OK initially, but will they protect the gearbox as well as the ZF oil that has allowed the gearbox to last more than 10 years without any problems so far ? If alternative oil is not as good, the eventual cost will be many times the cost saving initially. I decided to use the genuine ZF fluid when I changed ours a few months ago. I bought 7 litres & used 6.5 litres. Meyle do a good replacement plastic gearbox pan (including an integrated filter ). ZF obviously also sell a replacement. For the Range Rover Sport you can't change the gearbox sump without lowering the cross member which is in the way - There is a steel replacement sump with separate filter you can use which makes replacement easier. Britpart & perhaps others make the steel sumps. I used a UK supplier called Advanced Factors, for the fluid & sump, but other suppliers may have better prices at different times.The gearbox is common to many other vehicle manufacturers (BMW etc), so you don't need to use a Land Rover parts supplier, just Google ZF 6HP26 sump & fluid. My gearbox changed gear much smoother after the fluid change & the old fluid did not look very burnt / discoloured (2006 TDV8, 125,000 miles)
  15. If you've not found info yet, have a look on .http://me1000.co.uk, I uploaded loads of the various D2 related accessory fitting instructions some time ago.
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