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Pawl12

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  • Location
    West Midlands, UK

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    Competing in Road Taxed Vehicle (RTV) off-road trials

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  1. If you didn't change the ABS modulator or do anything that could have caused air in it, you only need to do a normal bleed.
  2. Well done & thanks for reporting back ! Its always good when a problem gets solved by good advice on one of these forums & results shared.
  3. Have you gone through all the checks advised to the original poster ? Are your tyres all the same make & spec ? Are your tyres road tyres or more extreme off-road tyres ?
  4. When was the braking last OK ? Has anything been changed since then that could have caused the problems ? What make of brake pads have you got ? Nasty pads can have a huge effect on stopping power - but wouldn't be the cause of the very long pedal travel (which could be a wheel bearing as mentioned by Escape)
  5. Another 1 (TD5) here without programming. Just fitted the overide switch & the steering column switch and it just worked. Make sure when you buy the column switch you make sure it comes with the mounting bracket. The bracket can be fabricated, but it would be a unnecessary complication if you buy it !
  6. Escape, unfortunately I have no memory of what the booster output rod setting should be. Good luck !
  7. The secondary circuit piston doesn't move as far as the primary piston - I can't remember exactly for the D2, but 15~18mm on the secondary & 30~36mm on the primary - so that the displacement of each piston / circuit is the same at full stroke. Neither set of seals should be damaged by being pushed to full stroke if the mastercylinder was new (its designed to cope with full stroke during bleeding). If the original mastercylinder was very old, its theoretically possible the pistons have created a worn area in the bore due to repeated "normal" braking & moving the seal past this point during bleeding might cause seal damage - although I've never seen it on old / worn units ( I used to work for TRW / Girling). You're correct, the servo outputrod is not designed to be adjusted. The servo shouldn't influence the problem, but if something was trapped inside the mastercylinder primary piston (where the booster outputrod should contact), it could hold the mastercylinder forward of where it should be and prevent the primary circuit bleeding properly Each mastercylinder circuit ought to dispace approx 5.5cm3 of brake fluid at full stroke . From your description, I would focus on output from the mastercylinder & ignore the ABS as a very (very) unlikely cause of the problem.
  8. First thing to check are all the connections to the BT module in the rear & while you're looking check for water ingress to the connectors as it appears quite common causing pins to corrode away totally
  9. If you can't get flow out of 1 of the mastercylinder circuits, you won't get braking on that circuit. Are you confident the replacement mastercylinder was good ? Did you check the output from each circuit with the other circuit locked off / sealed ?
  10. It might be worth checking whether the wheel bearings are OK as worn bearings might generate the pedal feel you're experiencing as the disc can move sideways pushing the pistons back to create extra brake pedal travel.
  11. The plastic bush will be easily ground up by the gears . The metal selector ball is large & can probably cause some serious damage if left - especially if it moves around while the car is moving / gearbox rotating. I'd hope it's large enough to be seen with a good light & enough poking around. I would have thought the retaining circlip would also cause problems if left inside - being made of hardened spring steel. However, I never managed to retrieve the 1 that that fell inside on my gearbox when the plastic bush failed. There weren't any significant metal particles in the oil or the magnetic end of the drain plug - so I've no idea what happened to it ! PS I assume you;ve removed the top alloy housing to improve access ? Good luck ! Don't drop the selector yoke grubscrew in there too ( I had a "near miss" with that as well - lol) Paul
  12. Modern Land Rover floors have really thick sound deadening in many areas - which may be less than secure for mounting the extinguisher. Have you tried pressing on the chosen areas to see if it "gives" / is soft underneath ?
  13. I think standard may be convex - at least that's what was on our TD5 & what I replaced it with when broken. can you remember whether vehicles looked smaller than you;d expect / was slightly distorted in your door mirror ? If yes, it was probably convex. If not, probably flat.
  14. +1 on Osram Night breakers. I've got them on our Disco 2 & L322 RR. The L322 are the HID versions, probably similar to those you'll probably need. They were a good improvment for light output on both. Beware there's a lot of dodgy / fake versions on eBay. I only use well known sellers on Amazon - still a huge saving vs Halfords or similar
  15. Why do you think the ACE system needs purging ? Has some part of the hydraulic system been changed ? There is an LR procedure which can be carried out with a diagnostic machine such as a Nanocom, but many people get successful results by driving the car in a tight figure 8 at lowish speeds so that the ACE system has to work hard as the car turns from left to right & right to left. PS When I first changed an ACE RAM on the front of the car, I did nothing special other than a simple "gravity bleed" & all appeared OK. However, it it very unlikely I removed all air from the system. The second time I had to disconnect the hydraulics I tried the "figure of 8" driving & believe it worked much better.
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