Pawl12

If I remember correctly, some vehicles a few years old had a limited number of key variants that could be stored in the ECU. After that number had been used, the ECU had to be changed to a new unit with all storage locations available. Apparently some very new cars have to have the ecu changed for any replacement keys. All allegedly to make it harder for thieves to make use of stolen cars !

You've not mentioned changing hubs / ABS sensors at the same time, so I assume you didn't change them (Possible cause of unwanted TC operation). Have you checked the hubs for play ? Grab the top & bottom of the wheel (off the ground) & try to rock it back & forwards.

There was a long discussion on Landyzone about these a few weeks ago. Summary, they are available on ebay & elsewhere new - definitely not cheap (approx £90 for 4 !) Very few appear secondhand. There are a few people creating custom covers for only the centre hole vai 3D printing. Problem with the full versions as shown is that the retention is down to the fit on the wheel nuts & very few people use the D2 commercial wheel nuts they're designed for. They probably then fall off / get lost.

There is no pump on a non-ABS vehicle. Does he perhaps mean brake mastercylinder ? The brake booster will probably be very expensive from outside of Colombia - as it is large & maybe expensive delivery cost. The brake mastercylinder can possibly be bought from https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ They will ship outside of the UK at a cost.

I'm sure they'll fit - as the D2 is considerably wider inside than a Deafener. However, you'll probably need to make up or adapt a subframe to get them in & at the right height.

I think the garage are being kind. The amount of time potentially required to free off seized nuts / bolts to be able to adjust camber & toe at the rear end could run into many hours on a rusty UK car - which at typical UK garage hourly rates could amount to a lot of money - which they won't want to absorb into a "standard" 4 wheel alignment cost if they've ever worked on a modern LR previously. I spent nearly 4 hours last year cutting out the toe control arms on my L322 RR because the bolts were rusted into the bushes on the end of the arms. Even the main hub bush bolts were a "pig" - but fortunately did come out in the end. I was really lucky with the 4 wheel alignment I had done afterwards. The garage offered a "free" check, but charged £40 for any adjustment - if they could undo the relevant bolts. I'd marked all the adjustment cam washers when I took it apart to fit new bushes & put everything back to the same position. The alignment check showed everything was in the green & in the middle of the specs. I came away smiling & without spending anything !

I doubt that P38 & D2 are the same Panhard rod. Early & late D2s have different length rods (approx 40mm difference). They changed the length to improve the bump steer characteristic & changed the mtg point on the front axle to suit. I'd imagine the P38 length was optimised specifically for its suspension set-up too.

You're likely to be grinding material from the most strength critical area of the caliper. My view is that you shouldn't do it! Have you checked whether fitting wheel spacers removes the foul condition ?

As a quick response : the CAT would have been critical to the car meeting the EC emissions requirements for NEW vehicles applicable back in 2002 - Otherwise Land Rover would have not gone to the considerable Development cost & vehicle cost of adding one. It's NOT critical to meeting MOT emissions standards applicable for the age of car - As many owners have removed the CAT & are happily passing the MOT emissions test comfortably (the MOT standards are much looser than for a new vehicle to allow for reasonable wear & tear on the engine). Removing emissions related equipment from a car I believe is now technically illegal in the UK - but many do is it as said in my 1st post.

From my experience you're lucky if a typical aftermarket plain steel exhausts last 18 months. They're cheap for a reason & it's usually nasty thin steel & really poor paint with minimal rust resistance. They are often not even the same pipe diameter as the OE part - so make performance worse than standard (I gave up with various suppliers of aftermarket exhausts a few years ago when they kept supplying undersized parts & said all they could be certain of was that it should fit). The Land Rover OE system on the TD5 was a mixture of mild steel & stainless & the mild steel was obviously very well protected (my original TD5 rear section is still on the car at 20 years old. I wouldn't trust any OE / OEM or genuine exhaust system bought now to be to the same quality. A good stainless system will last the life of the car. However, it's possible to produce exhausts in low chrome "stainless" steel which will rust after a few years - meaning it's best to choose a supplier via recommendations than just whatever's cheap on ebay. Well known branded exhausts will probably be made to a higher standard,using thicker material & better silencer content than "no name" ebay specials to avoid the negative impact of repeated failures / warranty returns. Whether the cost of stainless is justifiable is upto you. If you're aiming to keep the car more than 18 months, do you want the hassle of buying another replacement or would you prefer to fit something that will last your ownership of the car. If you're a regularly immersing the car in water above the exhaust, the life of a mild steel exhaust will be significantly reduced. Yours is probably a later model with a catalytic converter - earlier TD5s didn't have 1. The 2 box systems will be missing the cat and will considered suitable for early & late models (no-one in their right minds would add a performance sapping cat if not fitted originally). Because some models have the cat & some models don't, it's likely MOT testers don't check what's fitted - only if the emissions are OK. I think technically they should be retained if originally fitted.

If you didn't change the ABS modulator or do anything that could have caused air in it, you only need to do a normal bleed.

Well done & thanks for reporting back ! Its always good when a problem gets solved by good advice on one of these forums & results shared.

Have you gone through all the checks advised to the original poster ? Are your tyres all the same make & spec ? Are your tyres road tyres or more extreme off-road tyres ?

When was the braking last OK ? Has anything been changed since then that could have caused the problems ? What make of brake pads have you got ? Nasty pads can have a huge effect on stopping power - but wouldn't be the cause of the very long pedal travel (which could be a wheel bearing as mentioned by Escape)

Another 1 (TD5) here without programming. Just fitted the overide switch & the steering column switch and it just worked. Make sure when you buy the column switch you make sure it comes with the mounting bracket. The bracket can be fabricated, but it would be a unnecessary complication if you buy it !

Escape, unfortunately I have no memory of what the booster output rod setting should be. Good luck !

The secondary circuit piston doesn't move as far as the primary piston - I can't remember exactly for the D2, but 15~18mm on the secondary & 30~36mm on the primary - so that the displacement of each piston / circuit is the same at full stroke. Neither set of seals should be damaged by being pushed to full stroke if the mastercylinder was new (its designed to cope with full stroke during bleeding). If the original mastercylinder was very old, its theoretically possible the pistons have created a worn area in the bore due to repeated "normal" braking & moving the seal past this point during bleeding might cause seal damage - although I've never seen it on old / worn units ( I used to work for TRW / Girling). You're correct, the servo outputrod is not designed to be adjusted. The servo shouldn't influence the problem, but if something was trapped inside the mastercylinder primary piston (where the booster outputrod should contact), it could hold the mastercylinder forward of where it should be and prevent the primary circuit bleeding properly Each mastercylinder circuit ought to dispace approx 5.5cm3 of brake fluid at full stroke . From your description, I would focus on output from the mastercylinder & ignore the ABS as a very (very) unlikely cause of the problem.

First thing to check are all the connections to the BT module in the rear & while you're looking check for water ingress to the connectors as it appears quite common causing pins to corrode away totally

If you can't get flow out of 1 of the mastercylinder circuits, you won't get braking on that circuit. Are you confident the replacement mastercylinder was good ? Did you check the output from each circuit with the other circuit locked off / sealed ?

It might be worth checking whether the wheel bearings are OK as worn bearings might generate the pedal feel you're experiencing as the disc can move sideways pushing the pistons back to create extra brake pedal travel.

The plastic bush will be easily ground up by the gears . The metal selector ball is large & can probably cause some serious damage if left - especially if it moves around while the car is moving / gearbox rotating. I'd hope it's large enough to be seen with a good light & enough poking around. I would have thought the retaining circlip would also cause problems if left inside - being made of hardened spring steel. However, I never managed to retrieve the 1 that that fell inside on my gearbox when the plastic bush failed. There weren't any significant metal particles in the oil or the magnetic end of the drain plug - so I've no idea what happened to it ! PS I assume you;ve removed the top alloy housing to improve access ? Good luck ! Don't drop the selector yoke grubscrew in there too ( I had a "near miss" with that as well - lol) Paul

Modern Land Rover floors have really thick sound deadening in many areas - which may be less than secure for mounting the extinguisher. Have you tried pressing on the chosen areas to see if it "gives" / is soft underneath ?

I think standard may be convex - at least that's what was on our TD5 & what I replaced it with when broken. can you remember whether vehicles looked smaller than you;d expect / was slightly distorted in your door mirror ? If yes, it was probably convex. If not, probably flat.

+1 on Osram Night breakers. I've got them on our Disco 2 & L322 RR. The L322 are the HID versions, probably similar to those you'll probably need. They were a good improvment for light output on both. Beware there's a lot of dodgy / fake versions on eBay. I only use well known sellers on Amazon - still a huge saving vs Halfords or similar

Why do you think the ACE system needs purging ? Has some part of the hydraulic system been changed ? There is an LR procedure which can be carried out with a diagnostic machine such as a Nanocom, but many people get successful results by driving the car in a tight figure 8 at lowish speeds so that the ACE system has to work hard as the car turns from left to right & right to left. PS When I first changed an ACE RAM on the front of the car, I did nothing special other than a simple "gravity bleed" & all appeared OK. However, it it very unlikely I removed all air from the system. The second time I had to disconnect the hydraulics I tried the "figure of 8" driving & believe it worked much better.