braith

Just worth mentioning, when I built a 4.6 using interim front end...you will also need an interim spec cam....they are longer to take the dizzy drive gear...I used a real steel viper cyclone if I remember right. Ran well with a green tune resistor and tvr chimaera 450 chip...

So, Sorted the stop solenoid in the end.... The pump requires vacuum to stop it. So first iterations meant plumbing the pump to the normally open port, hence when energised closed off and the engine runs. The problem being that the vacuum is quite stong and the solenoid was overheating and being beaten, the vacuum leaking past and stalling the engine. So plumbed the pump the other way, to the normally closed port...could just fit a momentary push/flick switch like a sort of electrical pull stop...but i really wanted it off on the key. What I've done is to rewire the solenoid so that the live side is fed off position1 and the earth/negative via a 5 pin relay such that earth is fed to it when the relay is not energised and when the relay is energised from a position 2/run/ignition key position feed the earth is removed. This means starting is completely normal, and with just a brief pause at position 1 when switching off it's off, and when locked/key out nothing is powered up. Means that it defaults to start condition if solenoid fails....and the solenoid is only powered briefly so does not overheat/leak. The relay is powered all the time whilst running, but should it fail it's either disconnect one wire from the relay or unplug the solenoid. Only other thing I did was to fit a small section of 4mm nylon pipe in the pipe to the pump solenoid with a small 1mm bleed hole in it. This just allows the residual vacuum to dissipate so it starts properly next time. There's plenty of vac supply to overcome the small hole and stop the engine quickly. Only flaw being that if you switch off fast you can beat it and it stays running! Handy for defrosting I guess as you can take the key out, leave it running and lock it! hehe... And I guess if you sit in position 1 for ages the solenoid is powered up...but that's no bother ... Might be helpful??!

Re the idler, that's what I was thinking too....nearly did it from the off but got impatient! Iirc 1 uk gallon is 4.54 litres.

If I did it again I'd manufacture an o/s engine bracket too then I could raise the chassis mount away from the diff more... And as for the x mem notch...it'd clear without just...but you need it to install the engine (box stayed in) and for clearance/fitting a belt. I know this is about the 606, but the 605 would give a useful increase in room for installation and still far exceed a lr engine, only trouble being everyone would assume you'd just fitted a td5...

Would've given much more room to be fair! And the lr mounts probably move less....better for offroad probably...

throttle and kickdown cable took a bit of working out....but not rocket science. Throttle in from the left pulling the kickdown on the right...cables are standard to make replacement easy if needed. Forgive the washer stack on the pump support bracket, but served a purpose for mock up! Happy coincidence saw the clevis pin diameter being the same as the riveted in ball on the merc pump. The bracket on the right manufactured and mounted to an existing water jacket bung that was drilled and tapped to suit after being moved from the back of the head. That position was where the water temp sender used to live....

sweet! thanks...

Can anyone confirm the pics are on? I can't see them.....just don't want to clog this thread with double posts

Hector boy....so did you get a load of pics through??? odd as I thought I posted them as a general reply!!?

<p></p> <p> </p> <p>606 dipsticktube hole blanked off...loctited too I might add!</p> <p> </p> <p></p> <p> </p> <p>648 pickup, I had adapted the windage tray from the 606 to fit, but later removed it as so much would be removed to clear ribs in the 648 sump it would've been useless....this is somthing I'd spend some more time on possibly as it does breathe a bit, but having spoke to STD people they say 'they all do that sir' so am sucking it and seeing!</p> <p> </p> <p></p> <p> </p> <p>648 sump - from a W211 e320cdi - NOT s320cdi and w210 e320cdi (also om648, but still from well sump...) like I say, </p>

606 dipsticktube hole blanked off...loctited too I might add! 648 pickup, I had adapted the windage tray from the 606 to fit, but later removed it as so much would be removed to clear ribs in the 648 sump it would've been useless....this is somthing I'd spend some more time on possibly as it does breathe a bit, but having spoke to STD people they say 'they all do that sir' so am sucking it and seeing! 648 sump - from a W211 e320cdi - NOT s320cdi and w210 e320cdi (also om648, but still from well sump...)

the expensive bit...but, it is an item that will retain it's value and is inherently reliable oe 606 sump....not ideal 606 pump....

bit earlier, only tacked on....but show the merc mounts - they're big fluid filled jobbies. After having a series 2a with a 200tdi that shook my teeth out on std 2.25 bobbin mounts I was determined to keep some refinement.... you can see that I can easily trim the O/S chassis mount to acheive acceptable clearance.....I have defender bump stops and it's almost clear now. With a lift/extended bump stops there would be no probs...

N/S mount had to be fabbed up...the merc one is too long the allow the merc mount to fit...

engine mounts and relief to from x member...