shinais

If you want a reliable system you can use an adapter with a thermoswitch from a car with electrical fan. Treads are standard, M22 x 1,5. As the switch can handle max 8A a 40A relay should be used. Power the relay coil from the ignition 'on' position, so that the fan stops when the engine stops. Else it will run 'forever'. (However, the engine should really not be stopped while the fan is running, can overheat) Adapter at the hose to the radiator: Switch: (from an Audi 100, 92degC. just an example, lots of other cars have similar)

As far as I can see at the attached image, if the fan spins in the correct direction, which is counterclockwise, it will be sucking, not pushing air through the radiator.Modern fan design have strange blades like this, less noise and more effective. http://www.kenlowe.co.uk/images/fan2.swf

ok, dont know about that fan, but the fan at the image above is supposed to rotate counterclockwise.

Beware that this is not a pusher fan, mounted like this it rotates in the wrong direction (clockwise). No problem in our climate as the fan gets very little use. Unless you are stuck in a traffic jam in mid summer.

Anyone who have experience with Durafix?

This shows the flow through the system. The back leakage at the bottom of the injectionpump has a higher pressure than the feedpump.

Wish I could answer that as I have exact the same problem with my motor. I don't think there is anything wrong with the injector pump itself. But it's driven by the relatively small gears at the cam and oil pump shaft. A small gap here will cause a significant change in timing. I plan to replace the front gears and chain. If this doesn't give a significant improvement I'll go for a 2.5NA...

A very common problem and is caused by wear in the components that drive the injection pump. Causing timing to drift. This is why they used a belt instead on the 2.5. Some people say it helps to replace the front chain/gears, other say its impossible to get rid of, that even new engines are like this..

Why are straps not used at the front axle?

Could not find a single word about parabolic springs at their site.

Or use a standard 7810 regulator. Has 3 terminals. Input, 10V output and ground.

Thanks! mechanical voltage regulators are not exactly state of the art... Those old alternator relay regulators were pretty effective.

I've read somwhere that the original "stabilizer" is 5V?

Sure, I was not going to run it for real, only turn it on the starter with glowplugs removed. Or by the handle... I was thinking if something might happen due to lack of lubrication?

The seals came from Paddock, two plastic bags with 4 seals in each. One bag was marked "out". However, I could not tell any visual difference between them. All had springs. Same with the original seals, all with spring. Couldnt tell any difference between them either.. All were pretty worn so I was sure this was the cause of the smoke. But to my disappointment, exactly the same amount of smoke. Haven't heard about kerosene, maybe you can drain the sump, fill with kerosene and turn it for a few minutes on the starter with glowplugs removed..? If everything fails there is a wide choice of snakeoil available.