Bowie69

As long as you are SURE you have hooked it all up as above, then I would be looking at a second hand ECU to try out. Where are you? I have one or two on the shelf not doing anything...

Still basically a posing truck though, no good in mud, no good on rocks, but can jump high as you yell 'hell yeah!' Good fun I suppose, but not my cuppa tea

Still be nice to know what winch it is, my google image search has failed Any markings? And do you have the mounting plate to go with it?

Great, was it as suggested?

Think it was equivalent to a re-conned LT230, so about £450, but was a while ago I investigated it. It used to be on their site, but I think since a re-vamp it has moved, hope they still do it

1" & 5/8" that should be...

So it could be 90+Kg, say half is supported by the front hinge, that is 45Kg, I think the gas struts for that would be getting on for the size of a linear actuator anyways, plus actuators lock in position, so no fear of the roof collapsing on you if a strut fails... Not trying to persuade you of course

How much will the lifting part weigh, and then what weight could you have on that? Why struggle A pair would likely be better of course, or you could engineer some sort of cable and pulley system if you fancied a challenge, to lift both sides with one actuator, just to give an even lift

As you have a BW transfer box, drop a prop, then put a tippex mark on the diff pinion flange. Jack up one wheel, put it on an axle stand, another tippex mark on the outside of the tyre. Rotate the wheel one whole revolution, and count the number of turns of the diff pinion flange and divide this number by two, your diff ratio is this number, approximately, then round to the standard LR ratios, i.e. 3.54 or 4.7. I doubt they have been changed in all honesty, it is quite a costly exercise.

These are probably at the top end of the scale, but give you an idea: http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/GLA750_12V-linear-actuator.html Less than £100 by the looks of things though, so second hand or a cheaper alternative could keep your budget down. I do like this project very much too *edit* Here's a Chinese one, for solar panels, rated to 150Kg, and up to 18" stroke: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14-12V-multi-purpose-Linear-Actuator-Solar-Tracker-Tracking-Linear-Actuator-/261296381603?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cd67a5ea3 What sort of lift were you going for?

I'd agree too mike, but it could be a 90 transfer box too, they are the same ratio as a 110, except the very early ones which were 1.667.

Did the winch have it's brake in the drum then?

That doesn't look too bad Once re-gasketed/cap replaced/whatever, check your axle breather.

Is it only the rev counter stuttering (i.e. it could just be the alternator), or does the engine actually hesitate? Only thing I can think of is the crank/cam position sensors, one pointing at the flywheel, the other on the front of the timing case.

First make sure it is the box, rather than clutch, check out the LT77 FAQs on Ashcrofts site: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=217 Then.... no, basically without stripping the LT77 boxes down to swap some of the internals about, you can't put the disco box easily in the defender as the gear stick will be in the seat box somewhere. And as for 1.2 on 35" tyres, no way, far too high a gearing, 1.4 or even 1.6 if you like to make progress on the back roads. To get stock gearing equivalents, I seem to remember compared to the original 29" tyre and a 1.2 box on my RRC, 1.4 for 33" and 1.66 for 35".

I expect a visit to the scrappy would yield one or two, but as a seatbelt is a pretty standard thing, try looking at RRC/Disco ones to see if they will clip over, that would tidy it up a load

I don't know enough about ratios, but what about the Toyota 3-4 speed transfer boxes out there? http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/tcase_tech/tcase_tech.pdf Any good? I would have thought the options out there for diff ratios would get you closer to having a gearbox with ratios that would work, no?

30mm ring spanner normally gets in there, you won't find a socket to fit it unfortunately, avoid a cheap'n'chunky 30mm spanner as their fatness can get in the way sometimes.

Yup, choc-blocs are great, I ran a 30A one holding a clutch cable together for about 6 months....

For the 90mm, I'd get a jigsaw out, fine blade and some ply clamped underneath.

Need to make sure you don't create a stress point, i.e. a step. Are these case hardened or just no hardening at all? If case hardened not sure you should be removing any material from it... Have you tried polishing it with emery? See how much undersized it would be for a smooth finish? Ought to be able to pop it in a lathe to speed the process up a bit.

Now we've done it, Dan will have it all cut off and re-made by this evening... coil overs fitted with cantilevers and a Rover Metro hydrolastic suspension unit fitted in there somehow.

Bill: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=44604&page=20 7 years now, I do know the feeling somewhat though

Yep, to clarify, very rich mixture can do it, can repair as above, but easier to drop a new prepared one in while you go about your tuning, and repair the other at a later date, 'twas all I meant

Is an air spring less linear than a steel spring?