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Bowie69

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Everything posted by Bowie69

  1. Bowie69
    Should be OK, as the axle serial number would match the age of vehicle -but beware there's lots of work to fit a disc swivel to a series axle, ask DiscoMikey
  2. Bowie69
    Brake fluid very slightly low then, when you push the pedal it will fall slightly, possibly enough to set it off, top it up and try again.
  3. Bowie69
    Brake pad wear warning light
  4. Bowie69
    Pretty safe map, I would be tempted to run more advance at idle, I tend to find this improves smoothness and pickup. Your max advance is quite low for a 3.9/4.0, looks more like a 4.6 map to me.
  5. Bowie69
    Nige, so you say 10 spline axle in the back currently, with aftermarket shafts you don't need to change stub axles? But with standard shafts you do? So in theory I could stick my 10 spline locker up front, and fine a cheap 24 spline locker for the rear, and drop in some Ashcroft shafts? 10 spline ARBs are getting hard to find TIA, Pete.
  6. Bowie69
    Careful, Megajolt and Megasquirt maps are upsidedown to eachother! I have one for petrol and one for LPG, but not with me at the moment -different machine, but will post when I get a chance.
  7. Bowie69
    9/16" ring spanner and a hammer, if they are a little corroded use a 14mm spanner (very slightly smaller) and tap the ring of the spanner in place. You won't get a socket on, not enough room to the ball.
  8. Bowie69
    I've always used a normal, good quality 12-point socket without issues...
  9. Bowie69
    These?
  10. Bowie69
    Very nice, love the sound of the tyre coming off the rim, captured really well
  11. Bowie69
    STRICTLY speaking, as you will have to modify the chassis to accept the PAS box you should IVA it... but for just this mod, I guarantee 99.9% of people wouldn't bother, or not do the mod because of this.
  12. Bowie69
    Wasn't a correction, my post was just a minute after yours, your reply wasn't there when I wrote mine
  13. Bowie69
    NGK BPR6ES every time
  14. Bowie69
    Any normal car audio amp would take your headphone out as an input via an RCA - 3.5 stereo jack lead. 4x50W amp should do it, and be better quality than most cheapy headunits, then you just need to find some speakers.
  15. Bowie69
    Try a 12-pointed socket, as they are 12 pointed bolt heads.
  16. Bowie69
    Aren't the caliper bolts 12-point heads? They are on my RRC.
  17. Bowie69
    Yes, it will make it more sluggish with larger tyres, and probably affect fuel consumption too.
  18. Bowie69
    As FH above ^^, it will be fine as is, as long as the centre diff is locked. Either drive it like that or whip the other shaft out, and take the prop off, that way nothing is being driven anywhere.
  19. Bowie69
    Yes, otherwise the winch will earth through it's body.
  20. Bowie69
    And that ^^^ is what this forum is all about. Well done
  21. Bowie69
    Very, very nice Jason
  22. Bowie69
    They know they got stung, so they will sting someone else for it!
  23. Bowie69
    As above, stock height, no need for cranked arms, you'll just overload the chassis bushes permanently otherwise.
  24. Bowie69
    The shock does a pretty good job of stopping it flopping about toooo much, plus the upper spring seat stops it moving too much. Stock LR/RRCs don't really dislocate at the front IME, so hardly a worry
  25. Bowie69
    Yeah, you can remove it and remount it on the drag link, there's a kit from QT Services to do this, or you can fab up your own one, I did, took me about an hour in all!
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