Bowie69

Yes, those, they aren't crazy muds, but one man's crazy is another man's cool I run these: http://www.yv4wd.com.au/images/products/JT2larg.jpg Bit more aggressive than the BFGs, in fact old BFGs are more aggressive IMHO. Sensible price is a hard one, BFGs often do 40-50,000 miles before being changed... so work out cheaper as lot of the time. Not advocating BFGs you understand here, there are plenty of other good marques out there, tyres tend to get done to death on forums with everyone having 2 penneth...

There's at least 3 articles on this in the Tech Archive, have a look

Some info here, assuming you missed it? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72871&st=0&p=623003&hl=servo&fromsearch=1entry623003

Sounds to me a set of the new BFG muds would suit you very nicely, not as aggressive as the old ones, but then you don't want them to be, do you?

I'm more worried about the spring/U-bolt plates which seem to be 3mm steel, and bent as the bolts were done up!

Linkage: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=44345&st=0&p=410717&hl=woolies&fromsearch=1entry410717 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33322&st=0&p=323099&hl=woolies&fromsearch=1entry323099

Maybe he means 6mm dia ~ 30mm2? Even so, a little light IMHO, but not as bad as running the same from the battery box on a defender to the front of the vehicle! Cable run length makes a huge difference when pulling ~300A, I'm going with 70mm2 stuff for my rear winch (in an RRC), at least to the contactor, from there is is short lengths of 35mm2

Predictive text on phone....

Keep your number, fgs its not hard! The return of the Great British Whiners Remember when you had no reminder at all...... You when people had to organize their lives manually

They changes it to save cash, the old certificates were very expensive to produce, but now everything is fully computerized, have no real benefit to anyone. Even the reminder sticker has been dragged into the 21st century and been replaced by an SMS

In fact, I just tripped over it in the garage, complete with bracket: HTH

Seems about right, a mate had one on his V8 90.

Could be a prop UJ...

Capacity yes, duty cycle definitely not. A starter solenoid is designed for short bursts, and has been discounted as an isolator on ths forum before.

Frontera? My coat....

Get a custom one made up, but nothing standard to my knowledge.

Yeah I think I got a bit confused I remember replacing a MC on a LWT, but I'm reckoning it was the 2A one, and not this, I suspect it is actually as old as the vehicle (33 years now!) and explains the condition. I had worked on the wheel cylinders on this SIII, just not the MC.... Cheers Snagger, I'll definitely give the seal kit a go now, I'd rather not have to fit a blue box bit of kit to it

Well I found 20 mins to have a tinker with it this morning, just after the sun came up, news is, I am pretty sure not good Removed MC and eventually with a lot of scraping got the piston out, to find this: and this: Which in my mind looks scrap, this is after attempting a bit of a clean with some plastic brillo type stuff. The bore looks fine further down, but the top where the end of the piston goes is rather nastily ridged, not longitudinal scores, but rings of rust, if you see what I mean.... Notice the lovely colour of the brake fluid -there was a fine powdery rust int eh bottom of the reservoir! Seal kit is out I reckon, now looking for a replacement which doesn't cost the £225 from LR, or come in a blue box for £40! For those that haven't see the insides of the MC before, here they are, nothing rocket science about it, the small bit comes down from the top and holds the larger piston in the bore, and stops it falling out. Other more simple MCs often use a circlip to hold the piston in IME.

Pas pump!

A mate bought a rolling shell, chassis axles of a patrol for 600 , then weighed the body in.... For 100, not a bargain, but still a helluva lot less than Ashcroft.

Britpart swivels seem OK.... run them on mine for a fair while now in the gloopy stuff too.

Is it L/H thread? Many are.... I normally jam it with a rag or two jammed into the pulley/belt then spanner on and whack the end of it with a hammer.

The cost! You can easily sink £2.5K in a pair of axles.... If I was doing it again, it would be Patrol front and Yota rear, very strong axles and easy enough to fit -job done for £500 I reckon.

Ugh, ditto, I understand about earth loops and such, but running a good earth straigh from battery to a distribution point, and then making sure you earth the individual components back to it will not cause this.

I find just turning the pickup over, i.e. the arrow pointing the other way, to the coil, works in this instance.