Bowie69

I'd use small ratchet straps, bungees will give too much.

Yes, but only for a couple of hours IIRC, this sort of query should be in the 'LR4x4 Matters' forum btw

Soft-dash, when they revamped the interior of the RRC in ~1994/5 just prior to the P38 arriving.

Agreed, each bike ~ 15Kg = 60Kg, plus the spare at what... 30Kg, if it's standard size? Looking at it again, the Halfords one would still be my option -I don't own one but have used one quite a few time, work very nicely and no need to remove from the truck when not in use.

Not used that one, but the Halfords over-the-spare-tyre 4 bike rack is very good at what it does, and has built in straps.

That is a bargain if you ask me Mike, I'd go for it, but really be honest with yourself about rebuilding Brian, it is pretty unlikely to happen when you have to maintain another Landy... and it's working OK, so where's the incentive?

Got no pics, but a plate either side of the roof with 4 holes in them and bolt through -weld the standup/down tubes to these

Agreed! It's just a Freelander, with no Defenderishness in it at all. Maybe they are using it as a design exercise for both Freelander 3 and Defender 2.... Oh, and 2.0TDI engines, such as the BMW 190BHP one I am sure would be fine in a defender, with appropriate gearing. *Edit* Sorry, not 190BHP, but 204BHP, from 2.0l! https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/BMW_N47

Nice! Mother-in-law mode tyres http://www.evo.co.uk...00_concept.html Seriously though, the soft top looks worse.... much much much worse. As for 'tying down extreme sports equipment', how about tying down tool boxes and lawnmowers....? sigh

*IF* you need a replacement, have a look on the side of the dizzy body to confirm type, you'll see something like this: That way you can be sure to get the right one. I'd be rather suspicious about that egay one, far too cheap to be any good IMHO.

Having never seen one, I assume that is a Ducellier dizzy (red cap)... but the principles hold true, you need a certain gap between the pointsotherwise you won't get a spark and it won't run There should be a 4-lobed cam on the main shaft, which I can just make out in the photo, this pushes on the white plastic finger and opens the points. The cam in your photo looks VERY smooth, i.e. worn, but wait for confirmation as I said, I am not familiar with the Ducellier distributors... To set the gap loosen the screw just beyond where your white arrow is pointing, and move the plate until you see a gap, your test bulb should go out now To get the cam in the rightplace, turn the engine slowly by hand, the cam high spots should occur twice per engine rotation, watch to see the white plastic finger being pushed out by the cam, when at it's highest this is where you adjust the gap in the points, if they are still closed then your engine will have been having a hard time running If you haven't adjusted them or replaced them, it could well be worth replacing them now with a new condensor at the same time -inspect the points surfaces for pitting and corrosion.

This is a pretty good summary of stuff happening in Oz, I get their email newsletter somehow http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/custom-4wds/46551-4wding-australia-under-threat-once-again

Yeah I never used to bother, but a couple of serious boughts of dermatitis soon converted me, and washing up afterwards to soooooo much faster, especially with stuff like CV grease and grinder-grime. The other benefit if I tend to scratch my hands a little less on sharp stuff, granted they are thin, but an extra layer is always good. Welding I wear the nitrile ones inside my gauntlets with no adverse effects.

I use these, or Bodyguards Nitrile: http://www.greenham.com/c/pl/112956/Ansell-Touch-n-Tuff-Nitrile-Powder-Free-Disposable-Gloves Far superior to latex or vinyl, give a really good feel and don't slip when what you are handling is oily Careful of cheaper/thinner ones which just tear too easily...

Agree with Fridge, get a small box to poke around in, 50+mpg preferable, Japanese preferable and put the massive savings into new hardware for Brian.

Hmm, he is mistaken, if you present the car running on LPG, he has to test it that way. If you present it running on petrol he has to test it that way. Ask some questions, if he argue the toss, ask to speak to his Authorised Examiner, if no joy talk to VOSA.

5.0l V8 - yes the theory stands, however V8s rev a lot higher than TDIs -my understanding anyways But as to the maths, 2.5TDI @ 1bar, at 4000rpm, assuming no losses is 8000l/min, 3.9V8 NA @ 5500rpm = 11000l/min -almost 50% more. I agree clogged filters are always going to cause problems, however LR filters are designed to run in the worst possible dusty conditions(think north Africa), so have a really healthy margin of tolerance before problems are caused. So... in this country where the only things to block filters are leaves and the occasional kittens(and a blue tit or two) I really don't think a well maintained truck should have any problems at all.

At that age they should be metric, any supplier worth their salt should be able to decipher that from the VIN

If it is internittent, then probably just need to shove the cable into the speedo head a bit ahrder, but check for broken ends, which can happen...

That number supercedes: ESR1573 If that helps

Really doubt it will make any difference whatsoever, people run TD or TDI filters on 190+BHP V8s with no issues, in fact the RRC V8 filter box is WAY smaller than even the 2.5 petrol filter box I used, and doesn't strangle my upgraded V8 at all...

Try a bit of Pledge behind the wheel, should stop it for a while, then you can worry about more important things

Multipoint = on LPG? In which case it should be subject to a non-cat test, and as such it should run from lambda signal there should be no problem getting a pass... Has it been tried on petrol?

Right-click and save-as on the picture.

How about this? I turned the coil packs upside down.... no cross overs. Free built megasquirt kit? Why thank you