Bowie69

And.... vacuum advance line maybe. I assume you're on EFI if you are using a Calibra pump? Hotwire or Flapper?

When I fitted mine, I removed the central battery box that I have (24V lightweight) which is basically where the middle seat goes -this made the installation very easy, hardly any grubbing around from underneath and allows you to see what you are doing with the mainshaft nut -with the transfer box cover off that is... So... if you can get to under the seatbox easily I would do it that way. I didn't have to drop the gearbox either, which was nice. HTH

AH, the REAL SVA Police! I feel sorry for your mate, but these are the rules....

If the springs are Britpart, this is your problem, they are very well known for sagging, badly, after about 6-18 months. Of course if you have loaded up the truck more heavily then that is another reason, but you don't mention it so I assume not. If they recommend you to fit +40mm that's fine, it will lift it, but then standard HD springs should lift it to, from the knackered springs that are on there.... Personally I would fit either genuine, which aren't that exp[ensive actually, or some Bearmach, which seem to have a better reputation.

Can't remember the last time someone had to empt mud out of a fuel injector

Quite like it Except for the colour, looks like a b*stardised version of LR limestone

WELL.... you have the leads for a starter, and they run to the back of the engine to 4 separate coil packs, all of which could potentially fail... Pretty sure leads are relatively cheap, check them in the dark and look for arcing.

Not sure then, sounds like the sleeve has rusted to the bolt If you whack it too hard you will bend the bodywork.... You tried it from above, attacking the bolt head?

Can you get a hacksaw in there?

Like that quite a bit Not sure what the deal is with twin snorkels though!

Insa's are not snow tyres! Lack of siping mean in compressed snow they wil lbe usesless as a chocolate tea pot, in soft snow they would be excellent of course. If you are looking for a 'winter' tyre like many continental people use, like in Germany or Switzerland you will see they all have a lot of siping on them.

Axles are the same width on air portables, the only differences being the halfshaft length and design, and the drive flanges (they are flat), otherwise they are interchangeable -you can put normal series stuff inside then (shafts and flanges) with no problem.

Retro, that's a bit odd, as mine clearly has some old gasket material stuck to the head, and can see the break on the rear most port clearly, and having done it back up without realising this it blows like Paris Hilton It certainly looks like a one piece item, and no metal around

Excellent, thanks Ralph & Landynovice -you are too kind, both of you

As above, the corner of the rear port just fell off while I had the manifold detatched... I look it up in my PDFs, but it only lists the inlet manifold for some reason.... Then Paddocks list inlet and exhaust separately: http://www.paddocksp...cyl-petrol.html http://www.paddocksp...cyl-petrol.html Craddocks list the first link above as this, and include a nice picture with it: http://www.johncradd...and_exhaust.php I assume this is the one I am after....? Current gasket looks one piece, but the parts book shows 2 piece.... Sorry for being thick, I can normally work this sort of thing out, but am ordering from a motor factors first thing to get it running by lunchtime The vehicle is a 1980 SIII Lightweight, had a recon engine put in it in 1989 or thereabouts whilst still in the MoD. Cheers, Pete.

Not true, this varies from insurer to insurer, and I have found with the specialist insurers that LR owners tend to use they really couldn't give a fig about it, and the premium is the same. But yes, you are legally required to inform them and the DVLA On my Hyundai it put the insurance up by £20, or one tank of saving

I'm assuming it's running on much thinner than production tyres there, they look tiny...

As for using stainless, google electrolytic corrosion, which occurs between stainless and aluminum... Not good.

Doh, yeah, brain fart moment! Still like this a lot

Looks like an 80 series cruiser.....

No, but you can 'make do' or do a lot of properly yourself, his kit just makes it a huge amount easier. But an engine conversion will always cost a heap more than you think, and take 4 times longer. For exmaple my P38 V8 into RRC V8, thought it would be REALLY simple, bolt in... took ages to get it 'just right', and then I found the oil filter would get walloped off road by the diff. At least with a gas kit it can all be removed very easily if you don't like it, and the time outlay is nothing in comparison.

Agree ^ Some LWB 6.5" rims should be pretty OK though, depends on what you have

Got me? Alloy rims suck on Series, but those tyres are cool

Both rear lenses would be great, if you can/in good nick? Don't need the side bits, just the rears Thanks!

20% is far more of a drop than I saw on my V8 RRC, it was more like 10%, and also 10% on my multipoint Hyundai conversion (Yes I did say that on a LR forum! )