Bowie69

Should just be the impedance of the windings, swapping the armature over shouldn't cause a problem for test purposes, though if using the 24V one on 12V it will run slower in BOTH directions.... obviously, I hope

Changing the whole truck to 12V is a right pain actually, engine is great, but then you also need to change out heaters, instrument bulbs, instruments in a lot of cases, wiper motors, etc. The 24V FFR is a nice system, so don't just dump it I say If you did convert then a new loom would be the way I would do it, as FFRs tend to have pretty radically altered schematics... I really advise against it! I don't know how good 24-> 12V droppers are WRT to noise on signal lines, but get a good enough one there should be no problem running the EFI system at all. Keep the 24V starter motor, less amps in cold weather = more likely to start EFI would be worth it for sure, otherwise wave bye bye to ~30-50BHP.

10 mpg? What mods are there or is it standard? Known condition of the cam? If going LPG, I don't think there's really a case for Megasquirting, unless you love spending money. Tinley is £725+VAT for a V8 kit, that's fully sequential. http://www.tinleytec.../lpgprices.html £499+VAT for a closed loop draw through (perfectly fine on your engine) So say it cost you £600ish, that's a little over 20 weeks and the conversion is paid for.

Reckon they would look great on it, with a similar rolling radius to 7.50s

Installation is simple once you understand the system. Bits of 8mm copper pipe work, some rubber hoses and a feed the lot with some power and off you go. When fitting I tend to allow a couple of days, because fitting the tank securely is really important, but other than that it is nuts and bolts. If you wanted to really invest in it then get yourself a new multipoint system -DIY from Tinley Tech, very, very good company to deal with. Get the biggest tank you can if you do go this route. As far as stations go, have a look here: http://www.lpgmap.co.uk/map.php?lat=54.0722230&lon=-2.2815900&error=false&search=4 http://www.drivelpg.co.uk/map/index.php?zone=north%20yorkshire http://www.go-autogas.com/find_refueller.html You may find a nearer one from these links.... As for running hotter, the RV8, especially the 3.5 seems to go on for ever on LPG, only eventually getting pitted exhaust valves, but this is 100,000 miles off at least.

My thoughts are gas the V8, far simpler, cheaper, easier, and capital outlay is minimised if you use second hand kit.

It states a 'classic V8 coil sprung chassis, so maybe he spent hard earned on a custom jobbie from Richards? In which case he may just be inside the law. Some are so blatant it's easy to laugh, this one isn't so clear if you ask me.

Cash Cash and Cash -the only way IMHO.

Why not plumb the exhaust heat exchanger into the engine coolant system, just make sure it runs to the heater matrix first, that way you would get faster warm up times and more heat inside, and a purpose built pressurized water system. Or am I being over simple about it?

Yes, 150 hot from memory also

Filed under 'B'.

Was thinking along similar lines.... Disco rear prop donut anyone?

From memory, around 130PSI. TBH though, compression is probably the least of your worries, more likely to be cam and heads IME.

Isn't the 300TDI head supplied by LR for replacements on 200TDI engines? Is this an option for you?

I believe the 3.5 is a much smaller bore, and is likely to strangle the engine somewhat, and not bolt up to the Y in any case. If it was me, I would take it to a local exhaust fabricator (often advertising stainless) and see what they think cost-wise -could be surprisingly cheap compared to bodging around another system to fit.

And here endeth the lesson on the practicality of a 90 for bulky items - a Clio and a 3 series compact are more commodious

Agreed RangeyRover, that's my understanding of it. On Pirate I have since found many threads relating to modifying the PRV, but as my RR P38 pump is already 1500PSI, and that's what the Pirate bodgers are aiming for, I didn't see the point, hence the 'opening up' title to this question. Still not had a chance to look further at mine, but looks like someone has had some success!

2 people can lift one with relative ease, but there is no way you will get it in the back of a 90...

You won't find it on the site, but ring them up and order one -I rang them and he had the first batch on the kitchen table ready to go out

Yep, used a YRM panel last month to duo this exact repair on the passenger side. Expect a lot if work from the inside of the footwell.

This one is right in the rootwell, above where the clutch pedal would be if we were all uncooth This stud is the pass-through from the battery positive terminal, via the starter motor, and feeds via a load of brown wires the fusebox and other bits.

Rather than this, run a winch in the rear, and the rope going round a snatch block at the rear bumper and coming forward. 1 winch, pulls both ways, and makes the engineering much easier/cheaper.

Check the wiring stud in the drivers footwell for tighness and wire condition, sounds like something is very amiss.... You can see it on the other side of the bulkhead too, the starter wire goes to it.

Ordered from them for the first time recently, very very pleased with the result, what a lovely guy and gal they are too

Are you not scrapping the chassis/body? If So just chuck it in the back before taking it to the scrappy.