Bowie69

Fitting slave cylinder to a Dolomite 1850 years ago, had the box out 4 times just to retreive said bolts that we'd dropped when fitting, only to find they had found their way in through the clutch fork hole...

Check for stray bolts rattling round in the bell housing... ask me how I know!

Clutch release bearing bedding in? or is it worse... like something catching on the flywheel? Those are the only things I can think of really

The search button has a good selection of snorkels, as well as DIY versions available, all for free

If it's insured, just pay the screen excess of £65ish and get a new one...

... and grooved helps remove pad glazing under extreme temperatures, which is mainly what I was referring to.

Nope... less braking, but you get better temperature tolerance

Lara, they look lovely, but seem like fracture split still? (not saying that's a bad thing )

Or just RTFM!

Pretty sure there is reference to drilling a second hole in the caliper for the return spring, unmounting the arm, turning it a bit, and remounting... Hang on a mo.... Here: http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Instructions/X-Brake.pdf In the appendix, this should allow you to adjust it to wherever you like.

Sounds like clutch slave/master issues to me TBH, rather than a clutch failure. Try clamping the slave cylinder hose and pushing the pedal, if it goes solid then it's the slave, if not it's the master, or the master *and* the slave.

You can pick them up at most agricultural supplies places, in weld on or bolt variations.

To *REALLY* check the UJs, just drop one end of the prop off -you'll soon spot any wear. When fitted it's hard to tell often as they are under tension.

You couldn't find this? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&s...ost&p=67243 Start with the index, search in page for 'ABS' -there's only 3 links.

I do it in my head... divide the number of litres by 9 to fill, brim to brim, (easier than 4.5, most people know their 9 times table) then double it to get your gallons, and divide the mileage by that figure. e.g. 63 litre fill, divided by 9 = 7 Double it = 14 gallons 200 = 140miles (10mpg) + 60 miles (~4mpg) = 14mpg ^^ Clearly that's for a V8 I find it faster to do that than anything else TBH, plus you can do it whilst driving.

Use a windbreak if desperate, and turn the gas flow up a bit more -I do a lot of my welding outside, with gas, and have no problems to speak of -just practice.

No, maybe*, maybe*. * = probably negated by the fact you forget to engage them often enough and end up with condensation-rust on the internals. The diff/halfshafts aren't under load in 2WD, so wear would be very minimal anyways.

I expect I'll be there on the opening weekend at some point

Primer : *CLICKY* Top coat : *CLICKY* Have no affiliation to the seller(you can probably get it just as cheap by saving on postage and going to a local supplier TBH), but that's the sort of thing you could use.

Hmm, I don't think this thread does us any good in an open forum, really helps the other RoW users cause, well done.

Yellow Hammerite smooth would do, surely? Either that or farmers machinery suppliers (or Mole Valley does as well IIRC) will almost certainly have 'John Deere Yellow' or 'JCB Yellow' which is cheap as chips and hard as nails

And with the trumpet cut off, you can easily fix some 76mm pipe over the end of it, and tighten with a big jubilee (or two ofc).

That had occured to me as well tbh...

The VM as in the horrid old diesel lump used to pull Range Rovers around very slowly, used from the introduction of the diesel option to Range Rovers to when they got the 200/300TDI (right before the P38A took over)

Petrol? Diesel? Year? Relay for what? All the above would help a lot