Bowie69

Wasn't it Top Gear that did some Disco3 and Aston racing on a frozen lake in Sweden in their 'Winter Olympics' special? Seem to remember them saying it was 3" thick ice -but you can never tell if they are being serious of course.... Oh, and no, I wouldn't do it either

Is this the same business as on the Westhay Business Park..... or another branch....? Been there before, if I met you Adrian you were very helpful -or at least one of your staff were

It really needs a pressure bleeder like a Gunsons Eezibleed (about £15 from your local factor) and then follow the Haynes manual bleeding routine.... I've had to do it a few times, and found even after bleeding there was no pedal at all, so after 4 hours I decided to go for a drive (very very slowly!) and within 1/4 mile I had the normal pedal back and no repercussions.... it was a last resort however.

'GPS2Blue' works nicely with my windows powered PDA to my laptop, it essentially forwards the built-in GPS receiver data to a com port via activesync, if you google for it there's a great how-to guide.

They're disposable covers for protection against in-transit damage normally -just chuck them away...

Well... that is from the 'boxes

Sorry White90, I wrote that not meaning to sound rude in anyway, apologies if I upset you in anyway Yes, Landkeeper there is, and it did occur to me that this might be part of the problem, though not knowing the internals of a BW box I was unable to make any real diagnosis hence this post.... anyone had experience of a slipping chain? Bish: Box oils.... damn good point, maybe I should check them, as I never have -having said that it is bone dry underneath -I'll check just not convinced it is the problem... I'll do a few more road miles and test the VC again, it might well be worn out, and giving the chain a hard time I suppose. As an option, partly to restore gearing, has anyone fitted an LT230 to a BW-transfer boxed Rangie, and has any BTDT info? Cheers, Bowie.

Noise was definitely from the rear half of the vehicle -I know what a CV sounds like, and this wasn't it

Gave the Rangie the beans up a rather slippery steep rocky hill recently, bit of bouncing and wheel spin, but got there eventually... When I got to the top and back on some tarmac everything was fine, until I tried to turn a corner... when I did there was a bit of a funny noise coming from somewhere under the floor between the middle and the rear of the vehicle but ONLY when turning the steering wheel -straight ahead was absolutely fine. The sound was a clicking/flapping noise (definitly quite mechanical in sound), and given it's frequency I would say it was linked to propshaft speed rather than wheel. I got out and had a good look underneath, but nothing to really see. So... drive gingerly only to the main road waiting for something to fall off and the noise gradually subsided and disappears altogether within 1/4 mile. Great! The lane was a 'Y' shape, we drove the other leg of the 'Y' and then drove the same bit of the lane that had caused the issue before -this time I managed it with a lot less beans, however once at the top I had the same symptoms, no worse or better, again it disappeared pretty soon after getting on the black stuff. VC checked out OK once home (turns wheel slowly while standing on wheelbrace), just wondering if anyone else has had similar, and was it something serious? It's the Rangie in the sig, standard BW t-box. Posted in International as it is a bit more generic than 'Range Rover' -if the mods see fit to move it then I won't mind Thanks, Bowie.

No, I think you missed the point... I understand EGR removal enough, just the comment you made above regarding speed and engine revolutions makes no sense whatsoever...

Sorry to be off-topic, but this business of people using the 'reply with quote' button is getting beyond a joke -this reponse has NOTHING to do with my post, yet you included for exactly what reason? If you want to reply to a thread, look a little lower down the page and use the 'Add Reply' or 'Fast Reply' button instead, as most people don't need to see the same information triplicated within every thread. Coddy, don't take this personally, it is not by any means just you! Sorry rant mode off, feeling grumpy this morning

Err, yes they are, look in the pic -they are split to keep the mixer ring/plate thin, so uses two small inlets instead of one big one... You don't need injection emulators either -just use a couple of relays to switch the ground to the injectors off when on gas and it works fine -the Lucas ECU isn't that clever in hotwire or flapper form to understand that it's not firing the injectors properly so will carry on regardless. I think it's pin 11 and 14 on the Hotwire ECU that you need to switch, from memory, but I suspect I am wrong and you need to find out from the Haynes or RAVE if I am talking rubbish There is no 'little ECU' in the emulators, they just switch the grounds for you in a convenient package, make installation easy and lighten your wallet.

...and the panhard rod bushes -the bar that runs almost parallel to the drag link but attaches to the axle, not the passenger side hub.

:blink: :blink: Explain to me how blanking the EGR has gained you 10mph for no increase in engine speed, in the same gear... (I'm hoping there's a typo somewhere in your post )

You'll need a new mixer ring, assuming you are running the stock Hotwire setup on the 3.9 -you can see the mixer ring as a rectangular plate in one of the pics. You can pick them up quite cheaply (£30ish) even new, but you are also likely to need a new power valve that does not split the flow into two delivery points, as all the 3.9 mixer rings I have seen only use one. That and a new length of hose from vapouriser to power valve to mixer ring. Oh, and replace all the copper pipework at the same time -it's just not worth the danger of re-using unknown pipe. HTH

Maybe ring and ask them

I suppose this is limited by the circlip groove position -and no, I don't like them too much either.... I'd be tempted by a method that a couple of other forumers have used (Bish and... I think it was Adrian?), like the ones added to the Southdown bumper fitted here:

I suppose you have to ask yourself what have you lost, and therefore what can you gain by suing the buyer -£12? maybe plus costs? Really not worth it IMHO.

Class isn't determined by engines etc, purely the 'traction aids' and number of winches -if that's what you are trying to work out. Think you're getting a bit confuddled

David @ http://www.lama4x4.com/ will make up just about any hose you like, to any length you like in stainless, give him a ring, He might well be able to source the unions you are after as he does a huge amount with hydraulics etc....

Just a thought... the 'auto' mode, the power feed to the switch, is it being switched by the fan switch before it reaches the Carling switch and therefore would only work once the fan switch kicks in? Again, without knowing how it's wired up it's difficult to diagnose the problem. Apologies if I am pointing out the obvious there....

:rubshandswithglee: Cheers Cidermonkey, I guess the name/location is still hush-hush

Probably, I'm the one next to the chapel at Bagley, about quart of a mile from the Cider farm in Mudgley Apologies for OT...

Erm..... you must be kidding! :hysterical: Oh, and welcome

Not heard of anything, but I can probably see your house from here Would be very handy if it is the case.... only recent car parts place I know of is on the Valley Line Industrial Estate -looks a small affair, but they advertise like a Factor, with a sandwich board opposite the dump (sorry, Waste Recycling Centre...) Guess that's not it...