Bowie69

Sounds a great truck Only thing I am pretty sure about is the fuel sender.... on the fuel changeover tap (normally under the drivers feet) there are switches which change the feed to the gauge from one tank to the other. Oh, and 12V +ve earth..... with an alternator, I thought that wasn't possible.... (or at least not done in the automotive world) someone will correct me if wrong

So... Paris Hlton then.... or that Jade Goody...?

Mine doesn't.... It will highlight 'FireFox' but not 'Firefox', maybe you use a different dictionary, mine is Aspell IIRC. Then I use Opera all the time anyways, much lighter in use IMHO

If the batteries go flat in the remote, you could end up stuck right when you just don't need it -if you go this route I would still wire up some in-cab controls (very simple actually) and you'll probably find you rarely need the remote, if at all.

All the strobe/timing lights I've ever had have stopped flashing over a certain number of revs, probably something to do with a diminishing dwell time (not angle!) as the revs rise not giving the strobe sufficient triggering. I wouldn't rely on this as a test at all -do it properly.

Dingocroft do them, I suggest Google, a fair few people supply them... http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Rope...d_shackles.html

MS Paint is good enough for painting over the reg plate -just do it in white/yellow and people will hardly notice For a more powerful tool get GIMP, which is free and very clever

Doing that would mean an 'Amatuer Build' SVA from my understanding.

The clamp on bracket on the Paddocks bars atually fit into two grooves in the track rod -hence why I suggested the defender equivalent... you could do what I did and make up a clamp on bracket a bit more substantial than the paddock-supplied one... It involved some 50x50 box, a 30mm hole cutter and a piece of right-angled 6mm steel and it was job done... if you want pics I might be able to crawl around under there get a pic -though access is awkward with the steering guard on.

Bish is correct -though I think the reason was not to clear the cats, but to stop the extra heat from them destroying the plastic coating on the splines, hence they are actually mounted the other way round from the non-solid /wide prop. Either would of course be OK on a non-cat vehicle Well last time I read up on them and scared myself stupid thinking I needed the one for £250+VAT!

Roger, and thanks

Silly question.... but I always thought (not having owned a pair of these) that they were plated, but in Tim's pics they look painted... which is it? Ta!

You don't say anything about the plugs.....? If you haven't changed them then stick a set of NGK BPR6ES in it and try again

I won't comment on them directly, but as a tip, if you are relocating your steering damper to the defender position (very recommended) it is probably wise to get a set designed for the defender (someone will confirm which set should fit your vehicle -I am a little unsure ), rather than a Rangie -saves having to fabricate a clamp on the drag link

Not SVA'd... But anyways, I don't think the forum really benefits from this kind of witch hunt TBH.

Or have a sneaky browse in Tescos...

You mean out of the CV joint? Halfshaft in strong vice, and belt (tap it a bit!) the outside edge of the CV with a piece of wood and a lump hammer, or a very heavy rubber hammer, and it will fall onto the floor. If it doesn't go the first few thumps then turn the shaft and try again. This is all in the Haynes, no matter what you think of them they are a very good grounding for a lot of tasks on a LR.

The engine drives the fan, normally... If it's been converted to electric then it's anyones guess as to how it has been wired up. This is of course unless you mean the Air Conditioning fans in FRONT of the rad......? (assuming the 200TDi setup has these as well as the V8s...)

Wasn't thinking different, although someone could have had a 74C one in there as opposed to an 88C, I was more thinking that the one currently installed is getting a bit old and slow...

Well done! No reason for it to run cooler TBH, both mine sit just under the halfway mark. When you say you swapped the senders... you mean you have the sender from the carb setup on the EFI engine now? If so that makes sense, sorry if I am being dim... One thing, did you change the thermostat when the EFI gubbins were off the engine? Much easier... but probably a bit late now!

According to this there should be an earth wire on the motor housing: http://www.britpart.com/uploads/files/pdf_...oting_guide.pdf Looking at the pics, seems like it's on the back of the motor... though I expect someone will arrive that actually owns one -I just happened to have their destructions on my desktop for a mate who's looking at winches the mo.

Not if he stuck a 101 dizzy in there, which is what was being discussed, unless parts are interchangeable....?

Ditto, a set of new LR leads actually have very good tight fitting boots, without being too bulky.

In mine and others experience -Yes. (see sig)

If it's a Classic Rangie then get Genuine leads as well, they are £26ish last time I got them from Dingocroft, Magnecor might be nice, but hardly worth it IMHO. And NGK BPR6ES for the plugs -don't waste your money on expensive ones, the V8s just don't like them.