Bowie69

It's the one under the drivers seat on a RHD vehicle, along with the fuel pump relays etc.

You know the 'Lightweight' is actually heavier than a stock series?

Pretty sure teh water proof 101 dizzys don't actually work very well, I've read of someone trying it and going back to the stock one, and just sealing it up really well. They would be points ignition as well, so that's one more thing to go horribly wrong -I wouldn't do it TBH. Yes you can move the ECU under the dash -the loom comes from here and there's enough length to get it right on top of the dash, or to keep some order to the cabin, high up under the dash. The ABS ECU is rather more difficult -Bish looked at moving it but gave up as the ABS sensor wires needed extending.... which could easily be a pain. You *will* get deep enough to flood the ECUs BTW -I have.... Megasquirt/Jolt would make for diesel-like water proofness ofc

No need to apologise, nice write up BTW

You know you could have done this as a reply to your other topic?

Pretty sure they are the same as the TDS series, in which case they are 10mm, and they recommend 11mm holes for them (anything else would be silly I guess, but they do make a point of mentioning it.) HTH.

This would explain the paint on the terminals :smackshead:

There's lots of stuff on V8 electrics etc in the Tech Archive, as well as links to sites for downloading workshop manuals

From the reg, that would be 35/6 years old, and it's a 2 door, which fits the age, so I doubt it's a private plate, unless someone has rebodied a 4 door with a 2 door...? That is, unless you mean you are 16 years old, which just occured to me!

Sounds like classic symptoms of not having the coil feed back to the ECU connected -on Hotwire this comes out of the AFM multiplug and should go to the negative side of the coil -pretty sure it's the same on flapper.

Pay the extra and get galvanised ones, paint or any platic-type coating will rub off in no time... Guardian ones, dimension wise, work very well for me, and pretty easy to fit, plus they bolt through chassis AND sill, making it nice and strong.

I'd recommend this, as I have done it! Take the old hoses to your local hydraulics engineer and they'll make them up on the spot. When you do, get 45 degree fittings on the cooler and work out for yourself which is best for the other ends (setups vary here, but I had a 45 where the hose went to the radiator, and a straight coupling to the hose alongside the engine). Total cost was about £80, which seems about right. If you look in the Tech Archive you'll find a guide that will point you in the right direction. When I did mine, the cooler was *just* able to be mounted in the old horn holes, and the horns in the old cooler holes, it makes it tight at the top, but not restricting airflow in any way, and leaves space for a second cooler should I ever need it. Credit goes to Adrian and White90 of course! HTH, Bowie.

Hmmm..... your rear winch fairlead bracket and a new bolt-in crossmember for the rear winch? Some lovely work there, nice to see the new fab bench being used extensively

Assuming this is the vehicle in your sig, would the V8 squeeze between the chassis rails at all......? Not tried it so wouldn't know...

From the colour and fabrication method I am pretty sure I know who's those are... I've had one similar in that when fitting and doing the nut up on the end the stud started spinning inside the arm! Needless to say I didn't carry on fitting them....

The Meare to Glastonbury road was closed last night -the drainage ditch was literally pouring across the road -but then it's pretty common along there TBH. Didn't try Wookey ford, though I expect it's got to be 4ft deep at the moment.

Look from the back of the car, the right hand is on the right, and the left hand is on the... err.... left The pictures on the paddocks site are only of one side of the vehicle, regardless of the description -probably just being lazy when adding the thousands of items to the shop...

Very nice, the Dutch lightweights are slightly different to the UK MOD spec ones, quite interesting trucks(diesel, fuel tank capacity, and minor lighting mods, such as the indicators), one notable difference is the smaller tyres which the Dutch army had a huge stock of, and insisted they were used -LR had to alter the gearing to suit IIRC Good to see you got a Sankey with it as well

A quick write up of a very budget conscious snorkel I made about a year ago -I now have a Southdown pipe but not got round to fitting it to the new truck... Apologies for links to a competitor

Any reason why you can't extend the cage to the rear of the vehicle?

Ask Bish more about this, but from what I remember it's a yes to the tunnel, and a no to the footwells being modified. You move the whole lot forward 6" to accomodate the length of the auto box -this also helps with the bulkhead clearances.... Yes it's a lot of work, so I suppose the next questio is why do you want to do it?

Right, mis-reading things here... "doesn't make any difference" should be read as "doesn't make any improvement to the idle".....? If the idle fluctuations continue with it unplugged, then yes it proves the stepper is probably not at fault, if the idle stabilises then clearly there is a problem with it. If you run through what I posted above then you will get an idea of whethe the stepper is working to somthing close to correctly... which is what I was posting.

Not really, it just means that it won't be adjusting the idle when different loads are applied as it should -if you load the engine with it disconnected (fans, heated front/rear windscreen, put it in D with the hand brake on, AC on) it should drop and not recover. With it connected it should maintain the idle speed, or at least something close to it!

No, don't do that, it's called SPAM, and gets you banned Honestly, I'm not really sure we need it, but the admods have decided and maybe for once people should let it lie rather than starting another 10 page thread about something which is pretty inconsequential.