Bowie69

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Well that was a given

Nothing too scary there for a 2.25 engine, a little low, but I guess it's not a new engine?

It does upset the LPG, very difficult to make them run on it properly - a mate had to fit an aerosol lid and drill holes in it as a restrictor until his engine would run properly as there is not enough vacuum produced by a K&N filter to draw the gas in. So many people say they won't run right with K&N, on many many forums that is.

Nowhere in the MOT Inspection Manual does it say wheels/tyres outside the arches is a fail, therefore it's not. Illegal of course, but not an MOT fail.

Err, why? The centre diff will only allow the prop going to the broken axle to turn...

A quick note to say how easy/hard it was for you would be great, once done

They can't fail you unless it's in the book, and thanks to the magic of the interwebnets we are all able to read it: MOT Inspection Manual

I prefer driving my Audi Quattro to my Rangie in the snow -especially with factory rear diff lock

I don't think anyone is saying 'might is right' here, just that other road users seem to appreciate teh size of a specific vehicle coming towards them, and decide that it might be better if they reverse, rather than the 2+ton vehicle in front of them. If anything I think most of it has to do with considerate road users rather than people being frightened off the road or '4x4 drivers' bullying other road users -for instance, if you see a artic truck coming towards you and you can back the landy up 20 yds to make his life easier, you do, don't you? well I do anyways, I like to think this is reciprocated.

Yep, Pro-comps are well documented, but Rough Country?

Yep, they are, not sure what they are rated at, ubt being quite small pins from memory I wouldn't try anything much more than about 15A through them.

Bottom hose will do fine, remove it from the radiator and the waterpump.

The Llama 4x4 Rough Country damper are pin-pin, as you can see here: http://www.llama4x4.com/page4.htm I'm suprised the report on snapping, which end broke?

:hysterical: Good boy

When desperate, I am finding the ones from Mole Valley pretty good, if a little pricey, but they are sold singly -I suspect you could get a bulk discount from them if you asked. They're 'Hermes' ones I believe, and are £1.03+VAT each

Unfortunately the entire engine.... you COULD have cracked something important, only one way to find out though!

With a bit of luck you haven't damaged anything that can't be easily replaced, but I'd think about taking the water pump off to make sure you haven't broken that. Re-fit the old core plug for tests, but it should really be replaced, and seal with blue hylomar -check all the others as well, they could have come loose and start leaking. Once you are SURE that you have got it completely thawed out (this includes the radiator) run it up to temperature and see how she is. How long did you run the engine for with no water pump? If longer than a couple of minutes then I'd be suprised if that has got away with no permanent damage TBH.

Nice truck, very nice work there But... I will say something about the no goggles as well, 3 times I have been into A&E over the years for bits of disc/metal grindings that have got lodged into my cornea -and yes every single time I was wearing goggles, apparently I have cheeks which like to deflect the hot bits right into my eye. It's odd you don't notice it until you try to get to sleep, then your eyes are shut and the grit/metal starts to irritate the inside of the eyelid to the point where it's absolute bloody agony, normally at about 2am. So you drive to A&E (if you can still see OK at this moment), they see to you out of priority (as it's an eye injury) which is nice, they aneathatise your eye and pour some yellow dye into it so they can see better, they then start picking at your eyeball with a sharp hypodermic needle, it feels like they are trying to dig a rotten bit out of an apple, really really pleasant. Takes about 20mins. Worst bit of it is that there is no flippin whay you can look away, all you can do is stare at the needle repeatedly coming toward your eye. Antibiotic drops supplied, and your told to come back in two days to get the rest out. Really, is it worth it? I now use some very close fitting goggles which seal PROPERLY all the way round, I need my eyes to make a living, I just cannot afford to lose them. Anyways, as I said, very nice truck, lots of work, but worth it

Echo the above, no antifreeze, water pump frozen solid, and the core plug pushed out by the said ice.... You should have changed it when it was nice and warm and sunny earlier this year..... err, well warmer I suppose

Something like these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/27031/Hand-T...1UP5SCSTHZOCFFA

A very large pair of water pump pliers normally works for me, but have used the others in the past to good effect as well.

TBH, I wouldn't bother waxoyling (whats the Galv there for otherwise?) or painting, as when the paint starts getting chipped off it will just look ugly -a galv chassic will get a nice patina after a while, and look much better than flaky paint IMHO.

Yes to a fail , and yes to being repairable

Could be the dashpots (if SUs), fuel starvation from incorrect needles etc, or timing too advanced when under heavy acceleration. What carbs are you running? That's a Mahoosive engine to be running any UK sourced carbs...