Bowie69

For some bling, you can monitor both pre and post cooler with one gauge http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/productdeta...=DG%20209%7C374 *cough* at the price though

Careful with Erbauer -little birdie told me it was Screwfix's own brand, and not necessarily good quality. I have a set of thier HSS so called 'titanium' bits -they are probably medium quality from my POV, not bad, not good, but a bit indifferent. I wouldn't mind a decent set of drills but I have a habit of breaking them (current lack of variable speed/soft start drill ) maybe I should invest in an air drill...

No problem

Try this one: *CLICKY* The wonder of MS Office print to PDF function

Having done both modulars and the 3-spokes, I found it made very little difference tbh.

Yep, meant to say that......

Yes, you can, but you will need to trim (or fold it over is my preference) the steel part of the rear arch where the door closes, right up to the top at the door gap where there is a small bolt which likes to tear chunks out of your tyres. The rear of the rear arch should be fine... Front wings you will need to trim the bumper end caps and the wings behind them, you will probably get away with not trimming the rear of the front wing -I managed to just fold mine over a bit, and being a silver RRC, the ali doesn;t show too much through it Yours... being black might need a squirt of paint to make it presentable (if you care about that!) You may also need to trim the sill cover strips, although if you plan to go off-road you are probably better taking them off anyways. ^^^ That's my experience fitting 238/85s on 2 different Rangies, both had the same symptoms. Oh, and nice truck btw

Just some extra copper pipe and some T-pieces, and extend the wires to the tank solenoids if you have them. If you have 4 tanks it might be an idea to wire one in as a reserve, through an extra switch, so when you run out on the three you can flick over to the 4th, and then go find a filling station -that way you should never have to run on petrol ever again B)

Interesting.... might be easier than first throught then.... From a legal POV, if a car has ABS, I am guessing you can't remove it and retro fit a non-ABS system... or disable the ABS part of the system... anyone know for sure? Nicks90 - you don't have a linky for the Oz forum thread with TLC axles and a LR do you?

Bit more info on the VR sensors here, for the electrically-minded folk, or those that are interested.... http://www.infolytica.com/en/coolstuff/ex0128/ As Puggy says, the TLC axles use the VR type, similar to the Rangie ones, so I would suspect the signals to be similar as well... Does anyone know which manufacturer Toyota used for the ABS ECU? It' migth be possible to find out the specs, and expected inputs before trying this out... It might well be possible to just splice the wires and cross your fingers -they'd need to be good splices however, probably similar to satellite cable screw together connectors... IIRC from another RR ABS thread they are shielded coaxial cables...

Wow, congrats Bish, well done Now the really hard work starts......

That's pretty much as I thought it might be, but nice to hear from a grown up When I have all the other things finished that I have on my list (and Bish stops selling me more kit to glue to it! ) I reckon I'll start looking into this a bit further

One thing about LC axles I am interested in is the ABS system.... Would you be able to plug it up to the Rangie system, without getting mega-complicated or expensive? Would you use the Rangie sensors, the LC ones... anyone have ANY idea? If/when I get a/some locker(s) then it is an interesting way to go about it, and when you think about it, not THAT much fabrication work involved.....

Yep, standard size tbh

Don't do this! As a named driver you are not allowed to be the 'main driver' of the vehicle, therefore he would not be insured when driving to work etc... Honestly, the only way to really help is to insure an old mini or a moped for a year before getting the clio, to get some NCB, other than that you have to stomach it for a year or so until the prices drop a bit....

Ah good news And yes, he is a muppet

Bish, from your diagram you can see that the purple wire is the most likely cuplrit -try feeding it with a 12V from the battery, at the fusebox, this also feeds: Clock Hazards Interior light It also feeds into the back of the steering column switches -I suspect this will solve your other related problems TBH. Oh, following on from our conversation last night, I'll be around in Weston on Monday afternoon probably after 3 if you are about -I can take a looksie then if you like....? (if Saturday fails that is!)

There's enough slack to get it right up under the dash -no real need for an extension unless you are going stupidly deep -unlikely in a V8! Same goes for the relays etc.

I tend to use 2mm in most body patches, and most repair panels you buy are ~2mm, as said above it will last longer, and more forgiving when you are trying to weld it all together!

Bish - If you end up putting it inside, I have some bits out the back of the Rangie if you want them? Should be enough to go top and sides of the tunnel.... 2 bits both 2' x 2'6" square-ish....

Bish has foolishly offered to co-drive for me.... so this is a possible for me now, depending on whether I get the truck ready in time and arrangements with Bish

Satin! Matt is..... far too difficult to keep clean, honestly, it's horrid stuff, satin all the way in my experience.

Ah good, sorry, wasn't 100% clear by what you meant there.... There's a bit of a thread here with some helpful advice, mainly with prep-work and access... would save you some cash if you end up paying someone to do it.

I hope so! Cash waiting..... Shout if you need more bits from the Rangie.....

Did you bin the V8 airbox idea Bish? i.e. you still want me to bring it over on Sunday? I have the wiring you need, and crimpers at the ready...