Bowie69

Lump hammer and a long thin piece of wood always seems to work for me...... say 1.5" square... Try and hit it in the centre, inside the cage, so no energy is wasted... you are only trying to release a spring clip it shouldn't be rusted or stuck really... Can't really think of any reason why it should be difficult to remove

The 24V FFR Lightweights had 2 batteries between the front seats, although you probably already know this... The lid is held in place with 2 of the old series sprung bonnet clamps, and is VERY secure, and in stock form I believe it had a rubber seal all the way around the bottom, though I have yet to see one fitted to a LWT. This lid is ventilated all the way along the back of it with a slot... hang on a photo might help... click... whirr... resize... done! Here: You can see the vent slot clearly in the back of the box, and the fact that the batteries are sunk into the seat box a good 3 inches (varies due to the slope...) and the clamps that hold it in place. You can also see a bar going down in between the two batteries which is designed to hold the batteries in place, using standard battery clamps (I just haven't to got round to doing that yet, since I had to repair the 24V system....) The sunk-in box also has two vent/drain holes in the corners to help... even so mine was a bit rotted out in the corner which needed repair.... If you don't use the middle seat (Does anyone?) it's a pretty good place to put them, especially as the distance to the starter isn't greatly increased over the standard battery placement. It also gives a good flat surface to put maps on etc One question... and I am not up on the TDIs in any way at all, but I am under the impression they need a fuel return to the tank, this will give you 2 problems... first there is nowhere to attach the return to, second if you do then how will you stop it from topping up an already full tank and making it overflow(as you have two tanks you could be running on a half full one, but returning to a full one....)? If I am wrong then ignore me, but was just a thought Hope that helps (the first bit anyways!) Bowie.

Sounds like fuel pump to be honest, but also could easily be split/leaking fuel pipes -you shouldn't have an empty float chamber from a short run round the block!

Pretty sure you can pull the ECU loom back to under the dash, should give you about another 12-18" of clearance

What Bish said was true in my understanding, much the same for modified vehicles for which you haven't declared them as, *YOU* are not insured, even third party. If you hit someone the insurance company can legally wash it's hands of both claims, your fully comp claim and the third party's claim. You have a contract with your insurance company, and there are terms to adhere to, you break them, you are uninsured. If you managed to kill someone while uninsured unless you are obscenely rich you could lose your house, and be forced into bankruptcy as YOU become liable for the losses. Scary world, which is why all my mods are fully declared

He called a Land Rover reliable :hysterical: Hybrid: Not a pointless poll, it made me laugh while I was doing my accounts

Under the left hand front seat, it's blue and has two pins. Haynes has the detailed test procedure lifted straight from the LR workshop manual, which helps a lot!

Sorry, should have been more clear, the wire enters the same part of the loom that the AFM plug uses, you can see it in this pic here: I think technically it is a black with white, but as you can see it has a sleeve around it's whole length... Sounds like you AFM might have gone south DC_, When you disconnect it, the ECU goes into limp home mode, and won't reset until you stop the engine and restart it, or in your case, change to LPG and back to petrol (I suspect your LPG system is turning the ECU off somehow rather than switching the injectors -very common). In this state it will run, but very rich, and on tight corners in carparks for example it may well try to stall or hunt ... so not ideal, even though they do run OK on the road. If you have one I'd try swapping out for another and see if that helps... Good luck...

The ebay advertised couriers have done me well in the past, can't remember who, but was a reasonable price in the end

Paint is all very good, but Waxoyl is still my preferred method of cavity protection, apart from galv of course, but that's just too much Waxoyl kept a very rusty old Metro of mine on the road for probably another 4 years after the MOT station condemned it, it barely deteriorated in that time, and all that was was 6 monthly treatments, it does work! I'd never use the Waxoyl underseal or the clear stuff on the outside of a chassis, it is too soft and will just wash off, especially as we all partial to pressure washing these days, 3 coats of satin black smoothrite has always worked well for me

The MOT status is easily checked by the online system, reaching into the MOT Computerisation system, and retreiving a yes or no, same goes for the insurance... Now if the government (if you can call them that) actually wanted to invest in local post offices, rather than prefer to see them close, they would have rolled out the other part of the plan, each PO being able to electronically check MOT and insurance just by scanning a barcode.... sadly I reckon the budget ran out. Just another nail in the coffin of rural Post Offices I am afraid

Good news, mines a real ale

There should be a thick lead going from the chassis/negative battery terminal to the engine somewhere, just no necessarily to the starter motor bolts. If there isn't.... or to test if it is the issue (damaged, frayed cable etc.), try a jump lead between the negative battery terminal and the starter motor bolts, if there's a missing/faulty earth then this should bypass it. You can also check your positive lead in the same way, just dont let it touch anything except the terminal on the starter! If you do need to replace the earth, it is a good idea to go straight to the starter motor bolts, rather than anywhere else on the engine. HTH.

Only applies to tanks which do not have a manual shut off valve, the fact the tank solenoid clunks shut everytime the engine isn't running clearly isn't enough for them

Good luck, and take a big torch

Hmm airflow meter plug can get crusty inside, and give the symptoms you describe, might be worth giving it a wiggle, and check that the single black wire from the airflow meter loom is connected securely to the coil -these have a habit of being left off, especially by me and should cut the engine if disconnected... a poor connection might give you the problems you are experiencing.... Also, vacuum leaks! easy to knock a pipe off, and while LPG might run 'OK' it is not as sensitive as Petrol, as it doesn't use the AFM. Check the hose between the AFM and the plenum for splits...

Just take your existing filter off to test, it's virtually the same as K&N then anyways! Oh... as you are on LPG, K&N filters are NOT recommended on a draw through system, they do not allow the engine to give enough suck at the mixer ring, therefore weakening the mixture substantially.... cue backfires! Try blocking off the exhaust pipe exit if you think that it is too free flowing for the engine, this should make it run better if that is the fault... TBH, I'd put money on a wire or two being knocked off during the exhaust installation, as it runs OK on gas, you can discount any of the ignition system, and I'd start by looking at things like your fuel pump feed wire, lambda probe (assuming you have one?) and also all of your LPG installation wiring, it MAY be that you have gas and petrol going into the cylinders at the same time, not good! Hope that helps!

Have you removed the canvas axle strops? That may allow you enough to swing the spring back on the rear shackle to allow it to pop in the front bolt.

I managed a burn right in the fold of my elbow once, made me look like a heroin addict for a week or so For upturned welding now... VERY thick overalls, and a thick jumper helps to stop all of that, especially boots with high enough ankles to stop hot blobs going down your socks

For this reason I have a Morris Traveller sat on it's side the garage as well.... it definately does help!

For piece of mind, I smear a very thin film of sealant on the o-ring before reassembly, mines been like this for 4 years and not started leaking again.

Oh wow that is nasty! Glad mine is plastic that is... until I change it for a shorter/smaller one...

I have the figure of 20 tons rating for a NATO hitch in my mind from somewhere...... granted the crossmember would give way WAAAAAY before this on a 90, but they are strong items....

TBH, I'd suspect a leaking exhaust manifold... given you have receipts for a cam-job. These sound remarkably like the tappets, just a damned sight cheaper and easier to replace! Feel round each exhaust port for a leak, you'll know when you find it cos the hot gas will start slow cooking your finger Good luck.

Have to agree here, nothing like pulling a cross member right in the middle to make it want to bend Two recovery points on each chassis leg would be much better IMHO.